Belarus 250AS Wiring Diagram

[WHW2821]

Does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram for this tractor? I bought a manual that has every diagram but the one I need. I need to know which points on the 5 prong ignition switch to test for continuity to see if it is the cause of my problems.

 

[jesnic]

What problems are you having?

 

[WHW2821]

What problems are you having?

Well there are a few, but the main one is i want to be able to start it with the key and not jumper the solenoid. It may be loose or corroded connections but i took the dash off and reworked all the connections to make sure they made good contact. I took the floor out and notice there is a switch on the gear shift box. I assume this is so you can稚 start it in gear? What should this guy measure normally open or closed when in neutral? Are they any more fail safes that would prevent the key from starting the tractor?

 

[jesnic]

I had the same issue. I just added a 60 amp starter button. I wired it to the 12 volt positive coming off the key switch to energize the button coil and ran the wire to the starter. Works great. Give me your email address and I will email the schematics to you. The diagram shows routing, but not individual switch specs.

 

[jesnic]

Ok, I think I figured out how to attach the images.

 

[WHW2821]

Thanks if i find enough time I should be able to fix what i need with this information.

Is the fuse block under the hood next to the battery compartment? I have not checked it yet and that may be cause of my other problems.

 

[jesnic]

The fuse block is under the hood against the firewall. It has a cover that pulls off. All the fuses are wrap wire tipe. Most likely, you have some bad switches or a faulty starter relay. Even so, the parts are more expensive than a start button and some wire. I just went through all the switches and safeties and found it cheaper to add a start button than to replace the switches.

 

[kodiak88]

Hope this helps,i had a 526 belarus,and i went through the same thing .changed the preheater and messed with wires and racked my brains.i would preheat the engine then jump down and arc the solinoid with a screwdriver.finally an old dealer told me to take my starter apart and clean it.I disassembled it and cleaned all copper contacts inside,and i used anti-sieze on metal spiral shaft inside.if these starters are not used alot they tend to tarnish up inside.I used a dremel tool with the little drum sander on it.You can use regular grease,but i found out youll have to do it again alot sooner

 

[WHW2821]

So far I have:

- Pulled the dash and sanded every contact on the terminal strip.
- Pulled the floor and fixed the intermittent switch on the gear shifter.
- I tested the key switch with an ohmmeter and it passes continuity when you turn the key to start.
- I pulled the starter relay and took it apart it had some corrosion on the coil solder joint so I soldered it and tested it.
- I ohmed out the wire going to the solenoid from the relay.

A big rain storm blew up and shut me down yesterday before I could verify voltage from the key switch to the input of the starter relay. I am pretty sure that it is there but the relay will not work still. I think I have a bad ground from the coil of the relay to the alternator. I also did not verify voltage to the other side of the coil. It is possible that the alternator is screwed up because the shield that covers the electronics is missing and there is a lot of corrosion inside. There are only two connectors on it a larger green wire and a small wire that goes to the starter relay. I think it is the kind with the built in rectifier so I will take it off next and clean and solder all the joints and test the bridge rectifier etc.

Things that do not work:

- The horn, switch is good
- The lights
- The amp meter, I took it apart last night and it had tons of corrosion so I cleaned it up.
- Fuel gauge
- Warning light for alternator and fan belt breakage.

Things that do work:

- Tach
- Oil pressure gauge
- Temp gauge
- Glow plug light
- Every mechanical aspect of the tractor except the differential lock.

Questions for anyone out there:

- What is the plug socket under the dash next to the main ground switch?
- Has anyone used the extra hydraulic remote and does it control the two pipes that are capped off on the back of the tractor that are capped?
- The extra hydraulic line is leaking how do you repair this? Braze it? It rubbed together with the other line that it crosses and made a hole.

 

[jesnic]

I don't know about a "socket" near the ground switch. Take a pic. The remote hydraulics are controlled by the right most lever and are for operating single or double acting remote cylinders. The lever has four positions, raise, neutral, lower and float. You will not need these unless you have a log splitter, FEL, or anything else that requires hydraulics not operated with the three point. For patching the hole, just slide a piece of hydraulic hose over the pipe and use hose clamps to tigthen on either end.