1996 JD 535 baler, replace bearings

loneranchman · Jun 20, 2004

I've had my baler a couple years, first baler I've owned myself, and after running about 2000 big grass bales (would've had a lot more if not for the drought), I'm about to make my first repair before I start this year (first repair on it ever, aside from one chain splice). First question I have, are most of the bolts metric?? I'm replacing a dry sounding bearing in a roller on the arm that moves on the inside, access to the bolts is through the sides when the arm is up all the way. Are any of the bolts reverse threaded? I have a craftsman wrench, and I broke the thing trying to get it loose. An 18mm socket fits the bolt perfectly, 11/16 too small 3/4 too big. I don't have a metric socket the right size for my impact wrench, any advice to get the bolts out? Thanks.

loneranchman · Jun 24, 2004

Guess no one has changed a bearing in a JD baler before.

cowboydoc · Jun 24, 2004

The one we had was not reverse threaded. It was a 91. We replaced that bearing before and it is a bear. You are probably going to need a breaker bar to get them loose. I do believe that most of the bolts were metric. John Deere has a really good lubricant for breaking bolts loose. It's pricey but it works very fast and is worth the money.

loneranchman · Jun 24, 2004

Thank you, I got a metric socket to fit my impact wrench, and that won't break it loose either (cheap wrench), can't get much leverage with the gears or door in the way. Tried heat, don't know quite what I'm going to do with it without just drilling it out or something.... I've got stuff to loosen bolts that has worked on everything else I've needed as well. I've tried it the other way a little, but I didn't think it would be reversed. Meanwhile I'm getting the head somewhat scuffed up.

cowboydoc · Jun 25, 2004

When we changed that out it took the better part of a saturday with two guys to get it done. I can tell you an impact wrench won't get it off. At least not in our case. I know it's tough up there but you need to either use another wrench as a cheater or get some tubing to fit over the wrench to get it loose. I have no idea why they put those on so tight.

loneranchman · Jun 25, 2004

Problem is I only have access to one guy, I've tried a cheater but just don't seem to have room to both hold it on and crank at the same time while standing on the ladder.

Bird · Jun 25, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I can tell you an impact wrench won't get it off )</font>

Depends on the impact wrench. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif One of my neighbors who was full time in the hay business and used Deere equipment almost exclusively had a 1" Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench and a two stage 175 psi compressor. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Now that will do the job, but those 1" impact wrenches are both expensive and heavy.

cowboydoc · Jun 25, 2004

just don't seem to have room to both hold it on and crank at the same time while standing on the ladder.

Oh yeah we had one guy on top of the baler, me, and the other guy on the ladder. Had to have one guy hold the wrench on and the other guy pulling. I don't think I could have ever done it by myself.

loneranchman · Jun 25, 2004

My wrench was $30, and it will easily break off smaller bolts. I almost got one of those big ones a couple years ago, I could actually use one sometimes for other things. Didn't get back to the thing today, too much other stuff going on, might get to it sometime, hopefully before I start haying anyway, but might not.

theonewhowas · Jul 19, 2010

I know this is an old post, but I'll throw in my 2 cents...

For those bearing on that tension arm, since they are easily accessible to the side of the bearning, pop in small holes on that side of the bearing cover when you start to noctice them going dry and re-pack the bearing with a grease needle. Be sure to rotate the bearing and try to get that thing right full again, then clean up the excess grease with some brake cleaner or de-greaser/gas and throw on some silicone over the hole. You can do this to all three of the rollers on that arm without even taking the rollers out. Be careful with the drill, you don't wanna break off your bit inside the bearing. There are some rollers on the top you can do that too as well.

I do all the idlers every fall after I wash the baler, and do the main drives and the idler behind the auto tie pump every 2 years. A little redundant, but I know it's extended my bearing life compared to when I used to just change em when they went. Saves having to mess up a sunny afternoon cause of a smoke show in the rearview mirror. Bearing ain't gettin any cheaper either as I'm sure we are all aware.