Standing Seam Metal Roofing

[KWentling]

Thanks for the pics firedog. Looks good. Might have to rig up a roof ladder like that. What kind of shoes do you guys wear to get traction? Did you use the 30# felt under the steel or something else?

Anyone have experience with the snow/raingutter issue? As popular as they are getting in must not be a big deal.

Kim

 

[dcyrilc]

Always be careful when working on a roof, especially metal. Mine is a 5/12 and I was still up working on it one evening when the dew began to settle. Long story short, I lost traction and came flying off the roof. About a 13 foot drop to the ground. Luckily I wasn't hurt, but I always use a teather now. Not taking chances again.

I want to do a standingt seam roof on the house, but havent figured out how to flash around the chiminy yet.

 

[srossman]

Thanks for the pics firedog. Looks good. Might have to rig up a roof ladder like that. What kind of shoes do you guys wear to get traction? Did you use the 30# felt under the steel or something else?

Anyone have experience with the snow/raingutter issue? As popular as they are getting in must not be a big deal.

Kim

I put a tyvek like wrap down and secured it with nails with the big plastic head on them.

I had some issues last winter with snow coming off my roof onto the deck. I'm in the process now of looking for a solution for that. There are a lot of solution out there to keep snow from coming off the roof in chunks.

 

[maybar]

Was wondering if anyone has done their own hidden fastener snap together roofing? I'm adding an attached garage and want to reroof the house to match. House has shingles now. I've done a few pole barns and one steel building so working with the pro rib style materials is familiar and I have the tools. The roof is 5/12 pitch and will have 6 valleys.
I inquired at Menards about ordering the steel and they told me I'd have to draw out the roof in scale to determine the length of panels in the valleys. In this computer age is there not a program that you can plug the dimensions in and it gives you a list of the lengths required? I can do it by hand if I need to but that seems odd to me. The stuff is kind of pricey and want to minimize waste if I go with the steel.
Anyone have likes or dislikes with their steel roofs? Would you do it again? Suggestions? My main concerns are what hail would do to the appearance and snow sliding off taking the rain gutters with it (I know they have snow jacks). Standing on a 5/12 pitch could be an issue too. If I don't use the steel I'll go back with laminated architectural 30 year shingles. Any input?

TIA Kim

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QUOTE: I inquired at Menards about ordering the steel and they told me I'd have to draw out the roof in scale to determine the length of panels in the valleys.
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In framing hip roofs, the valley jack rafters are cut using a rule known as the common difference.

Example: beginning at the bottom of a valley and framing up, the second jack rafter is X number of inches longer than the first. The third rafter is the same number of inches longer than the second etc. etc.

I haven't tried it but you may be able to use that same principle in calculating valley roof material.

 

[KWentling]

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QUOTE: I inquired at Menards about ordering the steel and they told me I'd have to draw out the roof in scale to determine the length of panels in the valleys.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
In framing hip roofs, the valley jack rafters are cut using a rule known as the common difference.

Example: beginning at the bottom of a valley and framing up, the second jack rafter is X number of inches longer than the first. The third rafter is the same number of inches longer than the second etc. etc.

I haven't tried it but you may be able to use that same principle in calculating valley roof material.

I'm going to be framing the valleys on the garage probably on Sunday so those will be easy to get the steel lengths. Will see how that works out.

Kim

 

[firedog]

Thanks for the pics firedog. Looks good. Might have to rig up a roof ladder like that. What kind of shoes do you guys wear to get traction? Did you use the 30# felt under the steel or something else?
Kim

I wore a pair of my work boots, but their not really like boots. Made by Converse, side-zip with protective toe. A good pair of tennis shoe should be fine.
I used a synthetic underlayment instead of felt (similar to "Palisade") with plastic cap nails.
Palisade Synthetic Underlayment

 

[riptides]

We had a professional roofing company re-do ours. I could not figure out the angles. We have two sections coming together, and then there was the chimmney.

They did a wonderfull job, only one guy went to the hospital. Severe cut on his ankle, dropped a panel while on the ground.

 

[dcyrilc]

We had a professional roofing company re-do ours. I could not figure out the angles. We have two sections coming together, and then there was the chimmney.

They did a wonderfull job, only one guy went to the hospital. Severe cut on his ankle, dropped a panel while on the ground.

Is your chimney in the middle of the roof or on the side of the house?

 

[KWentling]

I used a synthetic underlayment instead of felt (similar to "Palisade") with plastic cap nails.
Palisade Synthetic Underlayment

I looked at and priced a synthetic underlayment. Wasn't Palisade and don't recall the name. About 1/3 higher price than 30# felt. It felt to me that it might be slick to walk on but maybe not much different than felt. Haven't seen where you need rosin paper or such as a barrier between felt and the steel like is in Palisade's sales pitch. I've got literature on 3 manufacturer's steel and none mention a barrier. All recommend 30# felt, as did the salesman where I priced the synthetic and steel. I do like the resistance to wind tear off and increased time of exposure a synthetic affords. Those are both concerns in windy Wyoming and this being a weekends only project. Might have to look around and see what else is available.

Kim

 

[firedog]

I think I paid about $100-110 a roll for the underlayment & used 2 & 1/2 rolls for a 22 square roof.
The underlayment was mostly idiot proof, lines & targets marked for overlap & nail placement; also had slip resistant dots all over it.