1401D hubs turned in...ill advised?

[r1-er]

I've got a 1401D that I use to bush hog the back 40 with. The terrain is really steep and scary. I haven't turned it over yet (knock on wood), but I'm constantly thinking of ways to make it safer. While doing some brake repair, I thought of this...turning the hubs in and mounting the wheels on the inside of the hubs. I got about 6" wider track width this way, but am concerned that when I load it up with the bush hog that I might break the rear end.

Anybody else ever try this? :

 

[normde2001]

I'm not familiar with YM1401 hubs, or what you mean by turning them in, but usually the wheels are just switched side to side for a wider stance, (rear only).

 

[r1-er]

I'm not familiar with YM1401 hubs, or what you mean by turning them in, but usually the wheels are just switched side to side for a wider stance, (rear only).

I switched them from side to side, but also turned the hubs around on the shafts so the wheel bolts to the inside of the flange. The offset in the pin hole in the hub allows an even wider track than just switching the wheels from side to side.

 

[California]

I have my YM186D set up that way, and for the same reason: maximum width for side slopes.

I asked a dealer who used to import Yanmars and he said he had never heard of a problem doing this.

 

[r1-er]

I have my YM186D set up that way, and for the same reason: maximum width for side slopes.

I asked a dealer who used to import Yanmars and he said he had never heard of a problem doing this.

AWESOME!!! Thanks for the confirmation. I was really hoping somebody else had tested this first.

Do you ever have anything on the back heavy enough to get the front end off the ground? When I'm spraying or bush hogging, the front end is very light and this must be maximum load on the rear end.

I can't see the end of the axle very well...do you have the pin set in the outside hole or the inside hole? I've currently got it in the inside hole so the end of the axle is slightly outside the hub...looks like yours might be in the outside hole for maximum width?

P.S. do you run the fronts turned around or normal? I've got mine turned out right now, but with the rears spaced out, steering seems to be even heavier than normal...might just be mental though.

 

[California]

Yes, my rear wheels are set to maximum, with the bolts (pins) through the outermost hole.

I have never turned the fronts out on anything. The principle here is that the front rim is centered between the inner and outer wheel bearing, and turning the front wheels out doubles the stress on the outer wheel bearing which is a safety hazard -especially on side slopes.

I have four 60 lb weights on the front bumper and it's still real light with an implement on the back.

Photo - front weights.

 

[r1-er]

Yes, my rear wheels are set to maximum, with the bolts (pins) through the outermost hole.

I have never turned the fronts out on anything. The principle here is that the front rim is centered between the inner and outer wheel bearing, and turning the front wheels out doubles the stress on the outer wheel bearing which is a safety hazard -especially on side slopes.

I have four 60 lb weights on the front bumper and it's still real light with an implement on the back.

Photo - front weights.

That thing looks like a BEAST!!! With the weights, you must have a lot more stress on the axle than mine should ever see with the couple lead blocks I've got on it.

Looks like you've made some good tire upgrades as well. I'll ask you about that when my back tires give out.

Thanks for the great info...I'm going to go swap the front wheels to their original orientation. The previous owner did it, so I don't know how much it affected the turning effort...seems really heavy right now though.

Thanks again,

Dennis.

 

[clemsonfor]

it ought to help with the sterring as the added width messes with sterring geometry id imagine. I think i heard someone on here say that dished out they fight you while turning??

 

[California]

That sounds reasonable. On any vehicle the combination of caster (kingpin inclined back), camber (top of kingpin inclined outward) and toe-in, is calculated to put the point where the tire touches the ground in a specific place relative to the kingpin. Move that patch outward, and it may want to steer toward anything that snags the tire.

 

[r1-er]

That sounds reasonable. On any vehicle the combination of caster (kingpin inclined back), camber (top of kingpin inclined outward) and toe-in, is calculated to put the point where the tire touches the ground in a specific place relative to the kingpin. Move that patch outward, and it may want to steer toward anything that snags the tire.

Yup. I've had the steering wheel jerk itself out of my hands when it hits a hole or a log. Going downhill is a nightmare because the additional weight makes it almost impossible to turn especially without a load on the rear.

I'll report back on the steering effort after I change it back.