Winter...

   / Winter...
  • Thread Starter
#21  
LMAO...I had not ever considered the third option...however...I have an extra assualt rifle handy...

I have been trying the large square bait cubes...they dont seem appetizing to the mice. I am going to try the small packets this time I think.
 
   / Winter... #22  
Small packets of poison pellets is what I use.
The bait cubes were not real affective, but fresh packets of pellets seem to do a good job. In 40+ years, have never had a mouse in the house. Some sneak into the attached garage, but pellets and occasional trap take care of those.

Pellets in my tractor shed, and the putter shed, as well as in the firewood drying on pallets do the job of keeping the mouse population down around here. No cats.

I learned that once mice get into an engine compartment and set up a nest, they will keep coming back (I think due to their smell). I've found it affective to rinse the area down with a strong bleach solution. Either it rids the area of the mouse urine smell, or they don't like the bleach smell and avoid the area. Has worked well for me.
 
   / Winter...
  • Thread Starter
#23  
crimany...my house was built in 2006(I just bought it in december of last year though) and we have had all kinds of issues with rodents and bugs. The guy who built it was a real slob. I have been narrowing down the infestation but it is really getting on my nerves. I will have to try the pellets. I have lots of traps set, and they were very effective in the beginning but i have not caught a single one for months, and now all of the sudden i have mouse poop showing up in the morning.
 
   / Winter... #24  
I probably don't need to point out to you how that statement isn't really true, do I? :p

Yeah, I'd thought of that after I hit the submit button, but figured the point was made all the same.

Isn't there some minimum recommendation for running an engine every so many months for a certain amount of time just to keep everything lubed, etc.?
 
   / Winter... #25  
Yeah, I'd thought of that after I hit the submit button, but figured the point was made all the same.

Isn't there some minimum recommendation for running an engine every so many months for a certain amount of time just to keep everything lubed, etc.?
Yes, although you can't really put an exact figure on it. In general, just best not to let one sit for extended periods if you can help it, or at least not without properly preparing it for long-term storage.

To avoid things like:
* degradation of Diesel fuel in the tank/system: water + bacteria + fungus => corrosion & slime
* extended battery discharge, which will ultimately kill it
* "dry" starting (no residual lubrication)
* seals drying out
* corrosion/surface rust
* tire oxidation
 
   / Winter... #26  
I use peanut butter in my mouse traps. I use only a small amount, and make sure I work it into the bait holder so they have to work to get it all out. Not many have finished the job. :D
 
   / Winter... #27  
My 4010 is housed in an uninsulated and unheated and detached garage. I glow it for at least 4 seconds and set the throttle about 1/2 way open. It starts instantly. I drive it gently for the first few minutes to allow some time for the hydraulic fluid to warm up a bit. Even here in Virginia, we use the low vis hydraulic fluid. The engine has 0w30 synthetic.

Only issue I had last winter when it got below 10 F at night 2 or 3 times, is wax clump formation in the fuel tank with off road D2. Took it back to the fuel station and exchanged it for B5 that I'd been using. Siphoned the tank and picked up 2 wax globs from the bottom of the tank with a fish tool. This winter, I plan (if I remember) to start adding some Powerservice additive to possibly keep the wax in solution.

Ralph
 
   / Winter... #28  
Ok, so I am having a bit of a conundrum here. I will be using my tractor for snow removal this year. I am currently keeping it outside, because I am using it for VERY muddy chores every few days ever since I purchased it. (I practically live in a swamp, and I have been digging ditches to correct that). I have my mustang stored in the garage, and it will of course remain there all winter(I live in Northeast Ohio). I have room to park the tractor in the garage, but I am worried about the snow when it melts off the tractor after using it this winter. have no floor drains in the garage. Instead, the floor is pitched about 1/8" per foot to drain the water to the front towards the door. The problem with this, is it will hit my door seal and pool to the sides, which will then hit the wooden base of my work bench which is simply not acceptable...

The garage is not heated, however it is attached to the house and remains around 40 degrees most of the winter. At the plumbing company I used to work for, we stored a Kioti 4wd tractor, a CAT skidsteer, and an IHI trackhoe outside in one of those metal framed tarp covered car port things you can buy for 300$ or so. All of this equipment was used in the winter, and none of it was hooked up to engine block heaters. We simply let the glow plugs warm for 30secs or so and they all would fire right up. But....of course I am a scaredy-cat, as this tractor is my baby, and I am worried about leaving it outside all year in one of these carport things.


So-the real question here-is there any harm in leaving the equipment outside during below freezing temperatures? I got below zero last year quite a bit as well. I am worried about the hydraulic lines, the oil, and honestly just the severe heat cycling that everything will experience going from ice cold to full operating temps...

This brings another question, would a block heater be beneficial? And if so, where can I get one/which type/brand should I get?

Pretend I know nothing at all, and school me on winter usage here. I promise I will not be offended!

:confused2:

I don't think you will have snow melt from the tractor. You don't get the snow packed up in them like you do a vehicle. I think the most you would have is a little on the tire and chains and some on the blade that you are using to clear the snow. I think 5 min with a broom and shovel would clean off most of the snow. I think that you could clear enough off that there wouldn't be enough water to make it to the door. It is easier on the engine to start in warmer conditions plus sitting out with snow on it causes stuff to rust and corrode faster. Not to mention you have to clean the snow off the tractor before using it. I do think a block heater is a good idea.
 
   / Winter... #29  
Mothballs in an onion bag stuffed in the space will usually keep the mice out and not cause corrosion. Just need to make sure the bag isn't next to a heat source (like the exhaust or engine manifold), or in any moving parts.

I suppose you could use something like coyote urine, but that's corrosive.

And who wants their tractor to smell like coyote piss anyway?
 
   / Winter... #30  
We ordered the block heater when we bought our JD 2320. When it is near 10F or colder I turn it on, eat breakfast, and then start the tractor. This has worked fine for me. One time I did not do this and the tractor started and then quickly lost power. I was just barely able to get it back up close enough to the house to plug it in. Let it heat for 30 minutes or so and all was good. When we build our pole barn, I ran an electric line, switched in the house, to an outlet in the barn. Now I can turn on the heater without going outdoors. Nice.

We have a blower, not a blade. After putting the tractor in the unheated barn, I brush off most of the snow with my hands. My goal is to get most of the snow onto the floor; I do not worry about every flank. Then I use a broom to push the snow out the door, including what the tires dragged in. As other have said, there is not a lot of snow on the tractor itself, mostly inside and on the blower. I do lower the snow blower down onto two short pieces of 2x4. I think this reduces the change of freezing the blower to the floor and reduces the rust stains. Sometime the wood freezes to the floor.

We had one of those tent-garage things the first year. If we were not in a high wind area, it would have worked great. The first night it actually blew away! As it was, I was out several times per week fixing, taping, and trying to keep in down and together. The sides were trash by the spring. The top was OK. The neighbors really enjoyed the entertainment I provided.

As for mice, we use these sonic things. We do not have any mice in the barn or house. We do have a cat in the house but she cannot get into the barn except when the big door is open. While I have no proof that they work, I do use them and think they work. NOTE: The directions say not to use them if you have pet hamsters and such.
 

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