electric hydraulic valves with toggle switches

[J_J]

His tractor in his Bio is a JD4600. He did say that the BH was a JD400, and it may have a Closed center hyd valve on it. The valve may have an open center plug available.

On some of the Prince valves, using different plugs, you can configure the valve for your situation.

 

[J_J]

Looks like a question to me.....

It probably is, but is one of those questions that one already knows the answer.

I don't know how valid starting off sentences in using these, but I sometimes do it. Should not, could not, will not, is it not true. It usually only requires a yes or no, or I agree or disagree answer. But anyway, so be it.

 

[MD3]

Do you have any pictures of the valve assembly.




.

J_J I will try to get some pics tonight. As you see I am a new member and I have not tried to send pics yet. The attached pic is a test to see if I know how.
Mike D.

 

[MD3]

It appears that the consensus is that if I use electric valves I will need to be able to control the oil flow. I also need to shut down the valves when the cylinders extend or retract to their limits.
In the pics you can see that 1 valve sets up higher than the rest. This valve has what is called a Port Meter in-flow. I think that this will allow me to adjust oil flow. I have 2 more of these Port Meter in-flows in my box of goodies. If I am correct I could add the 2 Port Meters to my valve bank. Then I would have 3 valves with fluid control. I am trying to track down the Port Meter distributer to find out more info (So far no luck). Can anyone confirm that I am right about the Port Meters by looking at the pics? I will also use toggles that will spring back to the off position when you release. This will take away the issue of forgetting to turn off when the cylinders are at their limits.

Thanks again:
Mike D.

 

[J_J]

MD3

Can you read the model number on the valve.

 

[MD3]

MD3

Can you read the model number on the valve.

J_J

SS-G03-C7Y-R-D1-E21

The item below the 1 valve is marked. Nachi Modular Valve ( OCY-G03-B-X-J51)

Mike D.

 

[J_J]

Here is the data for that valve, but can not find anything about port meters.

http://www.nachihydraulics.com/pdf/DirectionalControlValves_w.pdf

 

[AKKAMAAN]

J_J

SS-G03-C7Y-R-D1-E21

The item below the 1 valve is marked. Nachi Modular Valve ( OCY-G03-B-X-J51)

Mike D.

Nice general valves

P A B ports 5000psi
T port 2285 psi
flow rate= max 24.6 gpm
SS=wet type solenoid
G03= cascade mounted 3 size (larger, 1 size smaller)
C7Y=basically open center and work port closed in neutral, bi directional
R= have indicator light LED
D1=DC 12v 2.6A solenoid
E21= design number mounting bolt 1/4-20

 

[dfkrug]

I will also use toggles that will spring back to the off position when you release. This will take away the issue of forgetting to turn off when the cylinders are at their limits.

Those look like fairly common dual-solenoid spool valves for double-acting
cyls. You can see the schematic on the body.

You may be able to use a standard D03 manifold and use just one (or
two) of the valves on your tractor. That may give you some more
mounting options.

If you are going to operate something like a bkt grapple on your FEL,
you can use a momentary or a fixed toggle switch, no problem, depending
on your preferred method of control. Since you are diverting flow from
a work port circuit in this case, your system RV protects you just like
in the non-diverted case. Some folks like a momentary switch on top
of the FEL joystick. I use fixed toggles mounted on the control panel.

You will also have the same amount of feathering control since this kind
of installation uses an FEL valve work circuit, diverted to your grapple.
You would use the same joystick.

 

[jcims]

So I pored over this thread with interest because I'm debating on a W.R. Long front remote kit, but was worried about the full-on/full-off operation of the solenoid.

I can't really tell what the consensus is. Seems to be that the lack of a true feathering operation with a standard DC solenoid valve isn't a big issue for most front remote users (for low flow operations anyway). So maybe my problem is a theoretical one? I certainly haven't seen any complaints about it being 'jerky' or hard to control.

This also got me to looking more closely at the component parts of a front remote system, and i'm wondering if it's safe for a rookie to build one rather than source it commercially. The component parts seem pretty straightforward, and it seems that it could result in saving a few hundred bucks. I wouldn't be crimping any lines myself, just knitting the parts together like i imagine i would be with a commercial kit anyway. Any thoughts on that?