Kioti DK35SE purchase

[PhilipLoyd]

I never thought about that! It would be a good I idea to have that option. From my understanding there are two connections at the back of the DK35SE, one that is attached to the headlights and one that is attached to a blank fuse called Customer Use. I assume it could hook it up either way. I would guess the best way would be to hook it up to the headlights wire and put a toggle switch so it would automatically come on when you engage the lights and you could reach over and turn them off during those seldom times you would be on the road at night.

Thanks for pointing that out, I would have never thought about it.

 

[Patches]

There may be one more fly-in-the-ointment. If you want all three on one switch, you'll probably have to utilize a relay as I'm not sure a toggle will handle the amperage(will depend on the bulb wattage you choose)

 

[PhilipLoyd]

There may be one more fly-in-the-ointment. If you want all three on one switch, you'll probably have to utilize a relay as I'm not sure a toggle will handle the amperage(will depend on the bulb wattage you choose)

I read a few posts that stated a similar issue of only having 15amp on one fuse. I called Michigan Iron about their light kit. I would assume they would have it on just one fuse. The receptionist told me they were all out to a seminar and would call me back Saturday. I will let you know what they say as some others may benefit.

 

[Gittyup]

I don't have MI's kit; I did mine myself. I used three 55 watters, 2 front, one rear. I run all three off of a marine grade toggle switch rated for 20 amps. You don't need a relay. I used the customer use fuse. If you do your own, you could easily use two switches if you want the front/ rears to be separately controlled.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

I don't have MI's kit; I did mine myself. I used three 55 watters, 2 front, one rear. I run all three off of a marine grade toggle switch rated for 20 amps. You don't need a relay. I used the customer use fuse. If you do your own, you could easily use two switches if you want the front/ rears to be separately controlled.

What was your costs on this project? How did you mount the lights to the ROP? Did you just zip tie your wires? Where did you mount the toggle switch. Lastly, where did you get your lights? Did you just use halogen lights? Sorry for so many questions.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

Tractor will be delivered Tuesday. I know its kind of weird, but I am going to video his demonstration. He is supposed to show me easy ways to remove the fel, backhoe, and grapple. I know I will forget some things so I am going to use my son's Flip camera record it. I will upload it to my facebook an post a link, if anyone is interested.

I also previously mentioned to my dealer about the ROP lights, but he did not have an option. Talked to him again yesterday and he told me about a couple of customers who did it and they had issues with bugs swarming around their heads. Just a thought. Guess it wouldn't be a problem in the cool seasons.

 

[Patches]

Only time I've used my ROP lights is snowblowing at night; guaranteed, NO BUGS

 

[Gittyup]

There are several threads on this, and some have photos of my lights. There are others that also posted excellent solutions. You should search these out.

I don't remember exact cost, but was like $17/light and $20 for the switch. I had the wire. I used trapazoidal floods. I put my wire in the corrugated plastic split-sleeving stuff you can buy and tie-wrapped it to the inside of ROPS. My switch is mounted on the plastic cover that goes over the 3PH lift control lever, at the back where it's flat. Some others used this spot too. Easy to remove and cut a square hole for the switch. The lights I bought did not have gimbals. So, I had to make mine. I welded them up to a piece of uni-strut. Then I U-bolted the uni-strut/light assembly to the ROPS. Again do a search on this forum and in the projects forum too.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

There are several threads on this, and some have photos of my lights. There are others that also posted excellent solutions. You should search these out.

I don't remember exact cost, but was like $17/light and $20 for the switch. I had the wire. I used trapazoidal floods. I put my wire in the corrugated plastic split-sleeving stuff you can buy and tie-wrapped it to the inside of ROPS. My switch is mounted on the plastic cover that goes over the 3PH lift control lever, at the back where it's flat. Some others used this spot too. Easy to remove and cut a square hole for the switch. The lights I bought did not have gimbals. So, I had to make mine. I welded them up to a piece of uni-strut. Then I U-bolted the uni-strut/light assembly to the ROPS. Again do a search on this forum and in the projects forum too.

I have read almost every light thread on TBN. My only problem is the welding part. I don't have that equipment or skill. I would love to find lights that could easily be U-bolted to the ROPS without having to weld special brackets. I need U-bolt ready lights I guess. I think from my reading, I could manage the rest. We have a Harbor Freight store here, but the lights don't appear to have any brackets. I will continue in this search. Thanks for your help.

 

[dwhite]

I use a magnet base light. That way it can be turned forward or back and it hangs down mid ROPS. Occasionally, a branch will try to take it off, but I usually can lift the branches out of the way until it's past. I think I found it at TSC or Walmart.