magicheater
Veteran Member
Yes, you are correct, my math is lacking tonight, thanx for pointing that out.
If you could build your barn again...
- Thread starter Ridgewalker
- Start date
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hawkeye08
Elite Member
Yes, you are correct, my math is lacking tonight, thanx for pointing that out.
No worries about the math, you made the point you wanted anyway.
When we built our shop, there was some discussion about whether we wanted 40x60 or 60x40... I liked the 60 ft span but could not afford the difference (40 lb snowload, 70 mph open door wind).
I like to have my big doors on the gable end so I don't have snow blocking them (slide off roof).
OP
Ridgewalker
Platinum Member
Thanks for all the comments! Keep 'em coming!
You guys have given me some good stuff to mull over. I am hoping to have a budget of 20-30 K which will impact how big I can go.
You guys have given me some good stuff to mull over. I am hoping to have a budget of 20-30 K which will impact how big I can go.
ToadHill
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2005
- Messages
- 2,662
- Location
- Catt county New York
- Tractor
- Kioti DK35, Ford 8N, Oliver Cletrac
If I could build mine again I'd make it twice as long as it is wide. SWMBO kept telling me it wasn't big enough but I was sure it was, Well I had it full within 2 years.
forgeblast
Elite Member
I was thinking about the security of the place. With that many toys in one spot you need to do something to keep them secure.
Engrave your dl# on everything, helps identify its yours.
Cameras, signs, burgler bombs(google them), motion lights, good neighbor....
I saw that northern tool has some "cages" to lock your tools in.
You might be able to do one of the internet security cameras so that you can keep an eye on the place from home too.
Engrave your dl# on everything, helps identify its yours.
Cameras, signs, burgler bombs(google them), motion lights, good neighbor....
I saw that northern tool has some "cages" to lock your tools in.
You might be able to do one of the internet security cameras so that you can keep an eye on the place from home too.
dave1949
Super Star Member
I'm sure there is a point of diminishing returns with longer spans, but here are some representative comparisons : St Joseph Truss - Wood and Light-Gauge Steel Roof Trusses
If going from 40' wide to 44' or 48' feet wide allows better use of the space, then the difference in truss price is well spent, plus the wall length savings.
Whatever the size ends up being, it's a great exercise to layout everything on graph paper to scale and look carefully at arrangement and access; driving in and out without shuffling too many vehicles, minimizing the need for doors which are expensive, a nice work area, etc. Or, mark off an area on the ground - including doors - with grade stakes and actually try it out with the vehicles intended.
It's a 'happy problem' at least.
Dave.
beppington
Elite Member
My next barn, i.e. some things for you to consider:
- As many doors as will fit on at least 3 sides: Ingress/ egress options!
- Doors as wide as possible (18' - 20'): Why be crowded during ingress/ egress?
- Doors as tall as possible: I want the option anyway of pulling in an RV or center console boat with fixed console windshield/ T-top. Not yet sure what height these require.
- On the one non-door wall, 4' deep work surface running the entire wall length: Can't have too much work space.
- Auto door openers: I prefer to spend time doing things other than opening & closing doors
- Concrete floor
- Abundance of 4' fluorescent lights: Never seen "too much lighting" myself
- Large utility sink
- Abundance of electric outlets throughout
- Huge roof overhang (4' min): To keep water & sun off the barn walls, i.e. low maintenance
- As many doors as will fit on at least 3 sides: Ingress/ egress options!
- Doors as wide as possible (18' - 20'): Why be crowded during ingress/ egress?
- Doors as tall as possible: I want the option anyway of pulling in an RV or center console boat with fixed console windshield/ T-top. Not yet sure what height these require.
- On the one non-door wall, 4' deep work surface running the entire wall length: Can't have too much work space.
- Auto door openers: I prefer to spend time doing things other than opening & closing doors
- Concrete floor
- Abundance of 4' fluorescent lights: Never seen "too much lighting" myself
- Large utility sink
- Abundance of electric outlets throughout
- Huge roof overhang (4' min): To keep water & sun off the barn walls, i.e. low maintenance
JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
Haven't read the whole thread....
The one thing I wish I did with my garage, that sits on a slab....I wish I put a row of 8" blocks down for the walls to sit on. It gets the wood up off the ground to protect it from the wet. Looks a whole lot better, too.
The one thing I wish I did with my garage, that sits on a slab....I wish I put a row of 8" blocks down for the walls to sit on. It gets the wood up off the ground to protect it from the wet. Looks a whole lot better, too.
beppington
Elite Member
brin
Super Member
Main thing I would ad is like Carl said, go with a steel beam or two and eliminate as many internal posts as you can. My barn has posts and manuevering equipment is difficult. If I had it to do over there would be but one center post and if I could get by with no internal posts I would. As far as your living quarters ..I would look to a loft, an upstairs..that saves a lot of money right there..your roof and walls are up and you just finish the interior to your liking and with a deck up there you have your deer stand...LOL
