Buying Advice 2008 JD 3120 for 18,500

Dmac1 · Sep 19, 2010

Went to see the tractor. Got to play on it a little with a dirt pile. Not too shabby! They also had a 3005 and a 4005. I liked the 4005 due to more hp 41.5 vs 30 in the 3120 and since it had a 300cx loader. That said, the gear transmission is somewhat concerning. I've read a couple threads on here and some like geared for like plowing, but not so much for loader work.

I'm guessing for loader work, you need to use clutch a bunch as you edge into material (eg gravel pile) and as you begin to get bucket filled, tilt and lift it. All the while your forward momentum is adjusted via the clutch and brake. Do I have it right? Whats your opinions of gear vs hst?

The 2008 4005 has 40 hours (another demo machine) and they'd sell it for 21,000 with warranty. Said it was 24,500 new. I don't find many 4005s on TractorHouse, so resale concerns me too.

I haven't yet tried to dicker on any prices, but he did lower the 3120 to 18,000. Its got like 210 lbs of wheel weights on each side plus oversized R4 tires that he said were about a $320 upgrade (they're wider) and a standard X loader. No extra hydraulics.

Thanks.
Dave

scoutcub · Sep 19, 2010

For your usage, I think a hydro would be preferred.
If the dealer has already dropped the price, you could probably do a little better by dickering once you've chosen the machine you want. You could probably have them add the beet juice for free if you mention it in the "I'll take it if" sentence....
good luck!

RoyJackson · Sep 19, 2010

I used gear machines (still am, in fact) for years doing loader work. I'm not sure about the 4005 (formerly the 990) shift pattern, but the 3005 (formerly 790) shift pattern has 1st and 2nd aligned with reverse so it's a pretty straight movement.
I'd estimate you might add 2 to 3 seconds for each bucket when using a collarshift gear transmission.
Any of those choices would work well for your tasks. Personally, I'd prefer the gear for your grading and track building since, once you set the throttle, you pretty much just steer. Unless the 3120 has cruise control, you'll need to keep your foot on the forward pedal.
For your work, I'd go with the 3005.
BTW, don't worry about resale on the 4005. The reason you don't see many on Machine Finder or Tractor House is people don't sell 'em. They're fine machines.

Speaking of loader work, you'll definitely want rear ballast (see if the dealer will throw in a ballast box). This applies to any of those tractors.

Now I'll give you the downside of the 3005. This is a very robust tractor (had a 790 for 5 years), but it is a very old design (mid-1980's). The only thing I didn't like about my 790 was reverse. In low range, it's slow (snails zoom by when you're backing up in low range). In high range, it's too fast when you set the throttle at PTO speed. This was only a problem when I was mowing. Since you won't be using the tractor for finish mowing, it's a moot point for you. When I was doing loader work (materials or snow), I used high range 1st and reverse with the engine RPM set at 1500 RPM and used the foot throttle as needed. It worked great.
I'd still have the 790 except I did want more gear ranges since I do use the tractor for mowing. That's why I have a reverser transmission now.

foggy1111 · Sep 19, 2010

Cruise IS standard on the Twenty series eHydro tractors (just not automotive style....which is an extra $80 bucks or so).

On this "deal" offered. Essentially you have a 3005 with a hydro tranny and three range trsnny, and extra weight, and extra tire size (with rear weights) and the other ammenities of a twenty series tractor offered to you here for about an extra thousand dollars or so. Only compromise is about 2 horsepower.

Decisions...... Decisions

One thing I know about me....is that after owning a gear shiift, two range, tractor (as described by Roy above), I wanted a hydro.

RoyJackson · Sep 19, 2010

foggy1111 said:
Essentially you have a 3005 with a hydro tranny and three range trsnny, and extra weight, and extra tire size (with rear weights) and the other ammenities of a twenty series tractor offered to you here for about an extra thousand dollars or so. Only compromise is about 2 horsepower.

3120, foggy...just can't get your old 790 out of your mind, can ya?

Dmac1 · Sep 19, 2010

Good tips guys! Sure appreciate it!! Yes...decisions...decisions... I'll hafta ask about the cruise aspect.

One thing about the 4005 and 3005...I couldn't try them out because there was something wrong with the ignition switches of both so the keys wouldn't turn. One wouldn't go all the way in. The salesman has been selling these for years so seemed to know whats up...he was a bit befuddled though and said they're going to both get new swiches Monday morning!

The 3005 and 4005 both had more clearance and no hydro hoses hanging down (eg. steering). I liked that, but on my current property, that shouldn't be an issue unless we decide to drive over a tree! But who knows down the road....

Anyway, I'll be sure to look at the shift patterns and try backing up. He did mention no synchro, which I didn't totally understand. He said you can shift from 1 to 2 to 3 on the fly...but can't shift from A to B to C. Then said, but thats the same as the 3120. So, whats he mean about no synchro?

Thanks.
Dave

MrChris · Sep 19, 2010

Some gear tractors have a seperate control which allows you to go between forward and reverse or as Roy mentioned earlier, you have synchro between a low forward gear and reverse. Usually you can do both of these changes while still slightly moving since they are synchronized. Just push in clutch and shift. Very useful for FEL use. What I remember from when I was looking at the 3120 and the 3005 series, the 20 series felt more comfortable in the seat, little more spacious platform and control ergonomics were very nice. e-Hydro was standard on this model and you did get the Mid (B)range as well. I use the Mid mode almost exclusively on my tractor now. Don't think I would be as happy with just Hi and Low or A and C.

Dmac1 · Sep 20, 2010

Mentioned some of this to my wife. If we're out of town and she needed to try to plow the driveway...an HST transmission would sure be easiest for her. Obviously she'd still need a little training before hand on how to operate and such, but perhaps thats the direction to go so that there might be some chance she could get out if needed.

Not ever having owned one...I agree that it seems that we'd use B range the most. C seems primarily for transport. A for when you need power to move something I guess...or make some precise movements such as maybe hooking up loader bucket or whatever.

Dmac1 · Sep 23, 2010

Thinking the 3120 and for the rear, a 5' Land Pride rear blade. I have 2 concerns about going to a 6' blade for clearing snow:

1 - traction. Its got the oversized R4s and not ags. It does have 410 lbs of wheel weights, but I'm thinking beet juice is in order to help get traction in the winter. I'm thinking she ought to be real stable for loader work after adding the beet juice.

2 - power. We're at about 6500' and power will be down vs a 3520 (which I'm told are ideal at even higher altitudes.

I think the 6' blade would work fine for driveway grading but thats only part of the use.

Do you guys agree?

Thanks!
Dave

kennyd · Sep 24, 2010

Dmac1 said:
Thinking the 3120 and for the rear, a 5' Land Pride rear blade. I have 2 concerns about going to a 6' blade for clearing snow:

1 - traction. Its got the oversized R4s and not ags. It does have 410 lbs of wheel weights, but I'm thinking beet juice is in order to help get traction in the winter. I'm thinking she ought to be real stable for loader work after adding the beet juice.

2 - power. We're at about 6500' and power will be down vs a 3520 (which I'm told are ideal at even higher altitudes.

I think the 6' blade would work fine for driveway grading but thats only part of the use.

Do you guys agree?

Thanks!
Dave