tommu56
Elite Member
The important metrics are (1) depth of water, NOT total well depth, and (2) desired GPM. If your well head is deep, then you need bigger pumps, however, if your well head is shallow (can you look down and see water?) then a too-big pump will cavitate and damage itself. The pump, regardless of depth, only pumps from the head level, not from where the pump itself sits. Every pump has a head depth vs. GPM curve. If your head is less than the lowest end of that curve, you can damage the pump. You can add pseudo-depth if required, however, by adding additional check valves in series (one at pump, one at pitless, one at tank - usually does it).
A typical residential pump runs about ~7-10 GPM or so. Pick a desired GPM, estimate your well head depth + line losses, then go to a plumbing supply house and they'll pick out the right pump for you. Gould is known as the best pump brand to get in this area.
Pumps usually last about 25 years. I wouldn't worry about filling a 1 acre pond, especially if the pump was running wide open the whole time. What kills a pump is start-stops, so short-cycling due to a bad pressure tank will significantly shorten lifetime.
JayC
If the pump is too larger and doesn't have enough head it will not go in to cavitation
It will go in to over current and burn up if not protected because it is designed for a given head and it isn't there.
A submersible pump normally wont go in to cavitation because the water over top of the pump makes volute a positive pressure,
The lack of pressure in a pump volute reduces the boiling point (think opposite of pressure cooker or radiator cap)
causing a "sand blasting" in the pump as the water burst into a boil.
tom