Top link adjustments

   / Top link adjustments #1  

Gio

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
133
Location
Nebraska
Tractor
Massey Ferguson gc2400
I am new to this so bear with me....

Will adjusting the top link impact the depth at which an attachment digs into the ground? If I shorten the link will it act as a "stop" for the drop of the arms?

I am doing some grading of gravel with a rake and I was wondering if this would help. I am also going to use a back blade for the first time this winter on a 1/4 mile drive so I am trying to get a strategy together.

Thanks in advance for the advice!
 
   / Top link adjustments #2  
Yes it changes the angle of the implement. For example, your blade will dig in more or less depending how the angle is set.

Try this:

Put the implement on, set top link to shortest lenght. Lift the implement as high as you can. Drop it to the ground and look at the angle of the implements vertical and horizontal surfaces to the ground level.

Then put the top link to the longest lenght and do the same stuff. You will see a dramatic difference. Also, you may have more than one spot to attach the top link to your tractor, that can increase the change.

Give it a go, do some practice runs and you'll get the hang of it. It's a great excuse for more seat time!!
 
   / Top link adjustments #3  
Top link adjustment is different from implement to implement and the desired outcome.

Jimmyj has the answer. Get on the tractor and experiment until you get what you want.

Now, a hydraulic top link would make the whole process a snap but not everyone has the means to get one.
 
   / Top link adjustments
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the advice. I am headed out to give it a try. My first run last night was a little rough, hope I do a little better today. My 1/4 drive looks like a BMX track right now. I think it is fun leaving for work in the morning but my wife...not so much.
 
   / Top link adjustments #5  
Will adjusting the top link impact the depth at which an attachment digs into the ground? If I shorten the link will it act as a "stop" for the drop of the arms?!
No and no. The toplink only controls the angle of attack of scraper blades and landscape rakes. In other words, the degree of aggressiveness. Lengthen toplink to increase aggressiveness, shorten to decrease. The actual depth of cut is limited by how far you set the lower lift arms to drop and/or by draft control (if so equipped). Setting lower lift arm height is a function of the adjustable vertical link(s). Of course, a more aggressive toplink setting will in fact TRY to cut deeper. But a ground engaging implement can cut no deeper once the lower lift arms bottom out.

I won't go into draft control unless/until you specify that your tractor actually has that feature installed.

//greg//
 
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   / Top link adjustments #6  
Depends what's one the three point hitch...shorting the top link on a box -blade and rear blade makes it more aggressive.Box blade lengthed(top link) makes it ride on the INSIDE of the back blade(scarifiers up) to smooth and not dig in.Shorten makes the front blade dig in and scoop material.
 
   / Top link adjustments #7  
...Lengthen toplink to increase aggressiveness, shorten to decrease
This is true if moving in reverse...
I know on my tractor shortening the toplink make the cut angle more aggressive...when moving forward...
 
   / Top link adjustments #8  
This is true if moving in reverse...
I know on my tractor shortening the toplink make the cut angle more aggressive...when moving forward...
Pretty clear the OP is asking about rear-mounted scraper blades and landscape rakes. I get the feeling you're talking about something else.

//greg//
 
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   / Top link adjustments #9  
Pretty clear the OP is asking about rear-mounted scraper blades and landscape rakes. I get the feeling you're talking about something else.

the title states "Top Link Adjustments"...to me this indicates the "Toplink" on a 3 point hitch...and if you shorten the toplink on a 3ph it will tilt the implement forward thus making the forward facing blade (and or scarifiers) cut or dig more aggressively...lengthening the "toplink" will lessen the aggressiveness...again this is assuming the tractor is being operated in a forward moving scenario...
 
   / Top link adjustments #10  
Depends what's one the three point hitch...shorting the top link on a box -blade and rear blade makes it more aggressive.Box blade lengthed(top link) makes it ride on the INSIDE of the back blade(scarifiers up) to smooth and not dig in.Shorten makes the front blade dig in and scoop material.

I would agree with this.
 
   / Top link adjustments #11  
the title states "Top Link Adjustments"...to me this indicates the "Toplink" on a 3 point hitch...and if you shorten the toplink on a 3ph it will tilt the implement forward thus making the forward facing blade (and or scarifiers) cut or dig more aggressively...lengthening the "toplink" will lessen the aggressiveness...again this is assuming the tractor is being operated in a forward moving scenario...

Yup. Shortening the top link will rotate the top of the implement forward... and cause all ground engaging devices to bite even more.
 
   / Top link adjustments #12  
and cause all ground engaging devices to bite even more.

Unless it's a disk, in which case it lifts the rear out of the ground

Reality is, changing the top link length does different things with different tools.

Hook up the tool you want to use, and EXPERIMENT until you figure out how to make it do what you WANT it to do

That's half the fun of having these toys
 
   / Top link adjustments #13  
Unless it's a disk, in which case it lifts the rear out of the ground

Reality is, changing the top link length does different things with different tools.

Hook up the tool you want to use, and EXPERIMENT until you figure out how to make it do what you WANT it to do

That's half the fun of having these toys

Hmmm, thought the OP was talking about a rake and a box blade. Sorry.
 
   / Top link adjustments #14  
if you shorten the toplink on a 3ph it will tilt the implement forward thus making the forward facing blade (and or scarifiers) cut or dig more aggressively...lengthening the "toplink" will lessen the aggressiveness...
As stated above, the reaction to toplink length differs among implements. So again, please refer to the opening post please. Specific mention was made to rear (scraper) blade and (landscape) rake. Your mention of scarifiers means boxblade, which changes the toplink equation.

With scraper blades and landscape rakes, it's simple geometry involving the curve of the blade/tines. Moving the top of the A-frame (toplink) changes the angle of attack of the blade/tines. Shorten toplink on rear scraper blade (not boxblade) and it will scrape - maybe even bounce. Less aggressive. Lengthen and it will cut. More aggressive. Shorten toplink on landscape rake, and it will rake. Less aggressive. Lengthen and it will dig. More aggressive.

//greg//
 
   / Top link adjustments #15  
With scraper blades.........it's simple geometry involving the curve of the blade/tines. Moving the top of the A-frame (toplink) changes the angle of attack of the blade/tines. Shorten toplink on rear scraper blade (not boxblade) and it will scrape - maybe even bounce. Less aggressive. Lengthen and it will cut. More aggressive. ...

sorry, but on this planet (Earth, the third from the Sun) the opposite is true...

a scrape blade is no different than the cutting blade of a BB...
 
   / Top link adjustments #16  
sorry, but on this planet (Earth, the third from the Sun) the opposite is true...
Here's a good job for you then. Contact all the manufacturers of back blades and landscape rakes on Earth, and tell them their operator manuals are in error. Here are two to get you started, since you clearly believe that LandPride is mistaken on pg24 and that Woods is wrong on pg8. A word of advice though; you are likely to encounter skepticism if you mention anything about them being on the wrong planet.

//greg//
 
   / Top link adjustments #17  
As stated above, the reaction to toplink length differs among implements. So again, please refer to the opening post please. Specific mention was made to rear (scraper) blade and (landscape) rake. Your mention of scarifiers means boxblade, which changes the toplink equation.

With scraper blades and landscape rakes, it's simple geometry involving the curve of the blade/tines. Moving the top of the A-frame (toplink) changes the angle of attack of the blade/tines. Shorten toplink on rear scraper blade (not boxblade) and it will scrape - maybe even bounce. Less aggressive. Lengthen and it will cut. More aggressive. Shorten toplink on landscape rake, and it will rake. Less aggressive. Lengthen and it will dig. More aggressive.

//greg//

Simple, easy to understand , and correct. At least this is how my back blade works in Vermont. Maybe there are geographical differences but i doubt it :laughing:
 
   / Top link adjustments #18  
Here's a good job for you then. Contact all the manufacturers of back blades and landscape rakes on Earth, and tell them their operator manuals are in error. Here are two to get you started, since you clearly believe that LandPride is mistaken on pg24 and that Woods is wrong on pg8. A word of advice though; you are likely to encounter skepticism if you mention anything about them being on the wrong planet.

A few points...

I don't need a job but thanks anyway...

I don't have adobe (or other product on this system) capable of displaying .pdf files... so it's pointless for me to follow the links provided...but I'm sure the references you cite qualify your statements (can't see you posting them if they didn't)

I never directly referenced a "landscape rake" having never used one...any reference to one was inadvertent on my part...

I do acknowledge that a scrape blade CAN be set (shortened toplink) TOO aggressively to be effective and it will "skip" as you cited...in the same respect lengthening the toplink excessively will roll any (forward facing) blade backwards to the point it (cutting edge) will no longer make contact with the surface...
 
   / Top link adjustments #20  
A few points...

I don't have adobe (or other product on this system) capable of displaying .pdf files... so it's pointless for me to follow the links provided....

Adobe reader is free and available for nearly all operating systems. No valid reason not to install it. You would be able to view many informative pdf files, such as operator manuals, parts manuals, etc.
 
 

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