Scooby074
Super Member
crocus cloth. polish it up and run it. might weep a bit. change out the rod at your convenience.You can run like that for a long time
I hurt my JD 110 TLB Today
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doall
Platinum Member
You'll be fine, like some one else said it may leak a tiny bit when the rod passes the seal at that point. But I doubt it if its that small. I've seen construction equipment with gashes in them and they barely leak.
JoelD
Veteran Member
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Agree with all of the above.
You should be fine, worst case you'll have a small leak.
All machines that get used a bunch get some leaks some where.
I'd just keep an eye on it, clean it up as smooth as you can and keep on working the machine.
I've seen a lot worse got for a long time and cause no problems.
As others have said, if you are concerned you can replace rod and seals when the chance arises, although the need may never come.
Joel
You should be fine, worst case you'll have a small leak.
All machines that get used a bunch get some leaks some where.
I'd just keep an eye on it, clean it up as smooth as you can and keep on working the machine.
I've seen a lot worse got for a long time and cause no problems.
As others have said, if you are concerned you can replace rod and seals when the chance arises, although the need may never come.
Joel
OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I thought about crocus cloth, but the best I could do today (Sunday) was 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I will try about a 1/8" strip of that lightly on Monday morning to remove any sharp edge from the nick, and look for some crocus cloth later on at a machine shop supply house.
I feel a lot more confident in my ability to clean this up with something flexible, where I can use a shoeshine technique, than to do anything with a solid abrasive like a fine stone, where I am liable to leave a flat.
Scooby074
Super Member
:thumbsup:
IMHO shoeshine method works best. Crocus cloth is great stuff. I always have a roll/sheet in my toolbox/.
Gale Hawkins
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It it got hit I can not be in a "normal" working range anyway. Nicks are normal. 
That is a nice size machine. Our 310B got very LARGE when working around our new building.
That is a nice size machine. Our 310B got very LARGE when working around our new building.
OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
The problem is fixed for now. I cut about a 3/16" strip from the edge of a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and shoeshined the dent with WD-40 for a lubricant.
The 600 grit paper left a surface which was more shinny than the original, and clearly took the edges off the dent. I can still feel it but there is nothing to cut or abrade the seal.
I found a few more smaller places that had minor damage and touched them up also.
So far no oil leaking at all.
The 600 grit paper left a surface which was more shinny than the original, and clearly took the edges off the dent. I can still feel it but there is nothing to cut or abrade the seal.
I found a few more smaller places that had minor damage and touched them up also.
So far no oil leaking at all.
wdchyd
Elite Member
Glad everything's fine CurlyDave,
An old trick of mine was to us two ball pein hammers....one fairly new tiny small one and one normal med size.....
Put the round end of the small one holding it directly on the nick/burr, then using the med size hammer lightly tap the small one and kinda massage it around the ding...lightly smashing it back into the rod.....do it till your fingernail doesn't catch....
Using the small ball pein you can steer it around precisely as not to do any damage to other spots.....
With a little practice you can clean it up pretty good.....then sand and buff....done!!!!.....:thumbsup:
An old trick of mine was to us two ball pein hammers....one fairly new tiny small one and one normal med size.....
Put the round end of the small one holding it directly on the nick/burr, then using the med size hammer lightly tap the small one and kinda massage it around the ding...lightly smashing it back into the rod.....do it till your fingernail doesn't catch....
Using the small ball pein you can steer it around precisely as not to do any damage to other spots.....
With a little practice you can clean it up pretty good.....then sand and buff....done!!!!.....:thumbsup:
Jay4200
Veteran Member
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Don't do anything more - just get any sharp edges filed down and call it a day. If it is smooth it won't cut the seal. If no oil comes out, no dirt will go in.
I had a big gouge in my outrigger shaft when I got it - evidently the PO dropped a boulder on it. It would carry out a fair amount of fluid when it came out - I was worried about the gouge it carrying in dirt when it closed up, so I attempted a repair. I keyed the gouge with a dremel, then filled the hole with JB-Weld. I flat filed the repair, and it worked quite well. Over the subsequent 5 years, however, the surface of the JB-Weld wore away, and now sharp edge of the keyed cut is exposed and the surface is a little rough. It leaks some now on occasion, but then again, so does the other side. I still can't decide if the repair was a good idea or not. I'd like dig out the JB Weld and braze the gouge someday, but I doubt I'll ever get to it.
JayC
KnuckleDragger
Bronze Member
Now if that were true, you would have gotten out and wacked the slab to pieces with a sledge hammer!
Seriously, thanks for posting. I'm glad you didn't get hurt and the problem turned out to be no big deal. It seams like all of September I have been dealing with moving large rocks with my FEL, and have been nervous about screwing something up.
