Fine tuning my garage

[dstig1]

Codes are written a little squishy on things like switch placement. They will use words like "must be readily accessible from each entrance" but often not give a dimension.

GFIs are (generally) required around water, outdoors, and in unfinished below-grade rooms (basements) and unfinished garages/workshops. There are some specifics in the code around kitchens, bathrooms, outside outlets, etc. Basically they are going after any space that has potential to be wet from either utilities or rain/snow. In your case you should just have GFIs on the outlet circuits. As Al said, you only need one GFI outlet in the first position from the panel, and then all other outlets on the circuit string from that. As long as you do it correctly, the whole chain is GFI protected.

But do yourself a couple favors. Run at least 2 circuits and make them 20A (use 12 ga wire). Depending on your uses and the size of the garage, I would most likely recommend 3 or 4 circuits. Alternate them so you have easy access to more than one circuit from any point. That way if you are running some high amp tool, you can plug lights or whatever into another circuit so you don't trip breakers. It helps to color code the circuits with different color outlets for easy identification, or just a spot of different color paint.

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I think copper pipe is great for airlines. A bit pricey these days, but it takes the pressures just fine and it is a lot easier to cut and solder copper than to cut and thread iron and screw everything together. No arguments if you like iron, just not my preference.

-Dave

 

[crazyal]

I thought about making every other outlet on a different circuit but it would have required quite a bit more wire, about 60 extra feet. Since I have 3 retractable electrical reels that will get mounted to the celing and will be on their own circuit and I know I should be OK.

I really like the RapidAir (or other brand) type of system for plumbing air (just like plumbing with PEX but much easier to make connections). Unless other brands are different it has a limit of 150 psi so you would need to install a regulator set at 140ish before the lines. I use the push style connectors at work and really like them.

 

[lovemytoys]

you can use pvc its rated at 300 lbs

 

[dstig1]

you can use pvc its rated at 300 lbs

Very bad idea! PVC is not suitable for use for airlines. This is a well known issue (try Googling "PVC airlines"...or similar). It breaks down with age and exposure to the residual compressor oils, is brittle in the cold, and if you whack a pressurized line it can explode and cause serious injury or worse. Water is a liquid and thus (essentially) incompressible, whereas air is highly compressible. You store a lot of energy in compressed air and if the line breaks, that all gets released very quickly (explosively). I would use PEX tubing long before I would ever consider PVC as it is much more ductile and tougher and not subject to many of the degradation mechanisms PVC is (but still needs to be protected from sunlight/UV. PVC is a time bomb as an airline.

Edit: I know this can get to be a flame war topic, but the facts are there, if you look for the info.

 

[jbooth]

Wanted to post on an air compressor solution I used when my shop was a shop and not a storage building. I added a lean to when my 30" x 12.5' long lathe was eating all my shop space. As a clear span support I used some 6" pipe. The reason for pipe was; I wanted it to double as an air tank. Counting the uprights and the clear span the pipe gave me about 30 gallons of air capacity. Welded coupling on the pipe with quick connecters. That gave me air any place in my shop. Couplings were welded to the sides instead of the bottom to help keep the air semi moisture free. Both uprights also had a drain at the lowest point to keep the moisture to a minimum. This allowed me to save the space of the standard air tank. Compressor was placed under a work bench.

I also used the pipe for a lifting point, but always placed a 4x4 upright as close to the lifting point as I could due to my 12th grade engineering degree.

 

[badbowtie]

I have my big 80 gallon compressor in the corner but going to be adding a extra like 8'x8' room on the back of the garge and placing the compressor in there and what ever else I can fit in there. But when I pumbed all my lines they are very easy to change or move around so I ran one line ouf the compressor to a moisture trap and the split there and ran one line to the work bench and installed a regulator there and ran the other one of by lift and installed a regulator there also. All my runs and fittings are just regular brass and ran 1/2 rubber hose you can buy it all at and semi parts store and is really cheap and easy to work with.

 

[mbrule]

Wanted to post on an air compressor solution I used when my shop was a shop and not a storage building. I added a lean to when my 30" x 12.5' long lathe was eating all my shop space. As a clear span support I used some 6" pipe. The reason for pipe was; I wanted it to double as an air tank. Counting the uprights and the clear span the pipe gave me about 30 gallons of air capacity. Welded coupling on the pipe with quick connecters. That gave me air any place in my shop. Couplings were welded to the sides instead of the bottom to help keep the air semi moisture free. Both uprights also had a drain at the lowest point to keep the moisture to a minimum. This allowed me to save the space of the standard air tank. Compressor was placed under a work bench.

I also used the pipe for a lifting point, but always placed a 4x4 upright as close to the lifting point as I could due to my 12th grade engineering degree.

What a great idea! If I am ever lucky enough to build a shop......

 

[crazyal]

Building an addition to a brand new garage would have raised a few eyebrows, lol. Since I have the headroom and if I add an addition on the back the town will increase my taxes even further I went up.