Poor Man's Top n Tilt?

[MikeyB]

I have a 3320 with 3rd SCV at the rear of the tractor. I would love to have a tilt function as well but can't justify the cost of adding the electric diverter valve and all the plumbing involved.

If I was to use this:
Metro Machine Selector Valve, 1/2in. Port, 20 GPM Flow | Machine Selector Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

Mike

 

[dfkrug]

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

You could do that, Mike, and it would work. But, I think it is a false
economy. You can buy a one-spool monoblock valve with PB for a similar
price ($90) and get independent tilt function for only a bit more. You would
balance that with needing one less hose for another independent spool
valve. Note that Northern is not the least costly vendor and you will find
more choices at places like SurplusCntr.

In both cases, you would be buying and adapting the same kind of tilt
cylinder.

 

[MikeyB]

You could do that, Mike, and it would work. But, I think it is a false
economy. You can buy a one-spool monoblock valve with PB for a similar
price ($90) and get independent tilt function for only a bit more. You would
balance that with needing one less hose for another independent spool
valve. Note that Northern is not the least costly vendor and you will find
more choices at places like SurplusCntr.

In both cases, you would be buying and adapting the same kind of tilt
cylinder.

Thanks for the reply although it is greek to me! What is a one-spool monoblock valve? I have one hydraulic output at the rear of the tractor controlled by a lever next to the 3PH adjustment lever that I currently use for a top link cylinder. Hydraulic pressure is only supplied when I have the lever out of its detent so I don't believe it is like power beyond which is always supplying pressure. My idea was the 1 pressurized input/output into the dual manual valve enabling me to direct which hyd cylinder I want it to go to at any given time.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[dfkrug]

What is a one-spool monoblock valve?

This one would work, tho I would look for a smaller one....your JD is
only an 8.3 GPM unit, so a 10-15GPM valve is better.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6701&catname=hydraulic

Monoblock means one big casting, as opposed to a stack valve that is
multiple sections that you bolt together.

To use this valve, you need to connect it between your triple SCV and
the 3-pt cylinder. I know this is more complicated than the manual
diverter valve you propose. Maybe you should go with that, or get
more help. It is really up to how much effort you want to go thru to
do it the better way.

 

[kennyd]

I have a 3320 with 3rd SCV at the rear of the tractor. I would love to have a tilt function as well but can't justify the cost of adding the electric diverter valve and all the plumbing involved.

If I was to use this:
Metro Machine Selector Valve, 1/2in. Port, 20 GPM Flow | Machine Selector Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

Mike

An electric diverter is only a few more $$$ than the manual one you linked, all the plumbing is identical whether it's manual or electric so that cost is a wash.

Having a switch on the 3rd SCV handle to operate the TnT would be worth the $50 price difference to me rather than having to reach for the manual diverter.

D's way is viable also...but would probably end up costing more and still be less convenient than a switch on the 3rd SCV lever.

Here is a diverter that would fit the bill perfectly: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

 

[MikeyB]

An electric diverter is only a few more $$$ than the manual one you linked, all the plumbing is identical whether it's manual or electric so that cost is a wash.

Having a switch on the 3rd SCV handle to operate the TnT would be worth the $50 price difference to me rather than having to reach for the manual diverter.

D's way is viable also...but would probably end up costing more and still be less convenient than a switch on the 3rd SCV lever.

Here is a diverter that would fit the bill perfectly: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

Thanks KennyD,

So I could have the valve block at the rear. My two scv valve hoses into the valve. A two sets of 2 hoses out to my two rear hydraulic cylinders? That sounds like a great idea having a switch on the scv lever although it is a push/pull lever with a weird teardrop handle. Does the button have to be held down or just pushed to change the flow from one cylinder to the other?

Sorry for all the questions, but my putting on the rear scv kit has opened up a huge new realm of
possibilities for this tractor. Top n tilt, snowblower chute and deflector, etc....

Thanks,
Mike

 

[kennyd]

Thanks KennyD,

So I could have the valve block at the rear. My two scv valve hoses into the valve. A two sets of 2 hoses out to my two rear hydraulic cylinders?

Yes, that is correct. 2 in and 4 out.

That sounds like a great idea having a switch on the scv lever although it is a push/pull lever with a weird teardrop handle.

Not understanding that? push/pull? It should move like the rockshaft (3PH) lever.
You can mount a switch wherever you want...that will be a custom job. Figuring a way to attach it to the lever would be very convenient though.

Does the button have to be held down or just pushed to change the flow from one cylinder to the other?

However you want it. The switch is not provided, so you can get any style you want, whether it is momentary or not is up to you. When the valve has no power, fluid is sent by default to the C1 and C4 ports...click the 'Intructions" tab to download the .PDF, it explains it pretty well.

 

[deputy11]

Thanks for the JD parts tutorial, kennyd. Had poked around on there before but wasn't sure how to find what I was looking for. The longer I read this forum the more I learn! So far it's a toss up if I have saved more money not buying the wrong thing or spent more money finding out about things (HTL comes to mind) that I can't live without!:laughing:

 

[MikeyB]

Not understanding that? push/pull? It should move like the rockshaft (3PH) lever.

Sorry, poor explanation on my part. It is a forward/back lever that is spring loaded to a neutral detent.

Thanks for all your help. I imagine all the fittings and hoses will be most of
the expense!

Mike

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the JD parts tutorial, kennyd. Had poked around on there before but wasn't sure how to find what I was looking for. The longer I read this forum the more I learn! So far it's a toss up if I have saved more money not buying the wrong thing or spent more money finding out about things (HTL comes to mind) that I can't live without!:laughing:

Your welcome...I guess?:thumbsup:

Glad the tutorial helped, thanks for the positive feedback. It's always nice to hear when you do things right If only my wife would:confused2: