Poor Man's Top n Tilt?

   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #11  
Sorry, poor explanation on my part. It is a forward/back lever that is spring loaded to a neutral detent.

Thanks for all your help. I imagine all the fittings and hoses will be most of
the expense!

Mike


Got it! Yes, hoses and fittings are expensive, but like I wrote above-it's the same for a manual or electric diverter.

Glad to help;)
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #12  
If I could chime in here for just a second, KennyD I read the specs for the electric diverter valve, and Think I understand it well, but my question is more of an operational question than technical. Lets say I connected this valve in the following manner. on my L3400 take the 2 work ports out of the front end loader control valve that normally control curl/dump into the p1 and p2 input to this electric diverter valve then plumb back the other 2 ports that have the flow path in the non-energized state back to the curl/dump hoses going to the loader cyl. so then the loader curl/dump circuit is made back just like it was. then plumb the other 2 ports out to a grapple thumb cylinder and maybe put a needle valve in this circuit or use 1/4 inch hoses to slow it down some. then hook a momentary foot switch on the left floorboard of the tractor to energize the coil to send fluid to the grapple to close when I move the main loader control towards the curl side . and when I want the grapple to open I would press the foot switch and push the main control to the dump side. What I am asking is this the way it would work, and is this a good plan from an ergonomic operational standpoint? I have never operated a grapple before, I do have over a 1000 hours behind a front end loader control, lever but 0 hours using a grapple. I am thinking as you approach the brush pile, you move the loader controls as normal to line up the "grab area" by using the lift and curl/dump to get it where you would "bite" then stomp the button to energize the coil and then move the control lever to dump to open the grapple, then move the tractor forward into the pile, move the control the other direction to close the grapple, release the foot button and then curl the bucket as needed. Does this sound right. ? Sorry for the extra long post, but I am really trying to think this through, and on this subject, I am a total newbie.
James K0UA
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #13  
If I could chime in here for just a second, KennyD I read the specs for the electric diverter valve, and Think I understand it well, but my question is more of an operational question than technical. Lets say I connected this valve in the following manner. on my L3400 take the 2 work ports out of the front end loader control valve that normally control curl/dump into the p1 and p2 input to this electric diverter valve then plumb back the other 2 ports that have the flow path in the non-energized state back to the curl/dump hoses going to the loader cyl. so then the loader curl/dump circuit is made back just like it was. then plumb the other 2 ports out to a grapple thumb cylinder and maybe put a needle valve in this circuit or use 1/4 inch hoses to slow it down some. then hook a momentary foot switch on the left floorboard of the tractor to energize the coil to send fluid to the grapple to close when I move the main loader control towards the curl side . and when I want the grapple to open I would press the foot switch and push the main control to the dump side. What I am asking is this the way it would work, and is this a good plan from an ergonomic operational standpoint? I have never operated a grapple before, I do have over a 1000 hours behind a front end loader control, lever but 0 hours using a grapple. I am thinking as you approach the brush pile, you move the loader controls as normal to line up the "grab area" by using the lift and curl/dump to get it where you would "bite" then stomp the button to energize the coil and then move the control lever to dump to open the grapple, then move the tractor forward into the pile, move the control the other direction to close the grapple, release the foot button and then curl the bucket as needed. Does this sound right. ? Sorry for the extra long post, but I am really trying to think this through, and on this subject, I am a total newbie.
James K0UA

James, I have a diverter installed on my tractor, and have been using it to operate my grapple for 2+ years now and my FEL snowplow before that. They work great-but do take a little getting used to with the switch and all...mine is on the joystick. Search the term "diverter" in the hydraulics forum for hours of reading my friend;)
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well, I have ordered all the parts (I hope) to add a second hydraulic circuit on the rear of my 3320 using an electric selector valve. I already have a hydraulic top link and will now be able to rotate my snowblower chute, etc.
I will post and provide pix if anyone is interested in my project. The most expensive parts besides the valve were the Pioneer quick couplers. I am not 100% sure I ordered the correct ones since they are a different brand. Time will tell.

Mike
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #15  
Mike B,
Where did you get the parts and what was the cost. I've seen kits before for around $500 that included the valve, switch and connectors. Here is a link to one of those kits.

SCV, Hydraulic Selective Control Valve Multiplier

I have been debating the grapple on my loader and I already have the plumbing up the loader arms (3rd function). Right now the lines are ran to my rear SVC valve which is controlled by a lever in my cab. I would like to add an extra set of valves on my mid mount to be able to select a grapple function with my joystick. BYW, I have a John Deere 3520 cab model.

If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

Thanks,

Chad
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #16  
If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

He is useing a "diverter" valve from the Surplus Center. It still gonna cost him $300-$400 after all the hoses and fittings are bought. If you search the term "diverter" in the hydraulics forum you will be reading for hours:D It is the simplest way to add a circuit to your FEL, plus you are already ahead since you have the lines already.
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #17  
Mike B,
Where did you get the parts and what was the cost. I've seen kits before for around $500 that included the valve, switch and connectors. Here is a link to one of those kits.

SCV, Hydraulic Selective Control Valve Multiplier

I have been debating the grapple on my loader and I already have the plumbing up the loader arms (3rd function). Right now the lines are ran to my rear SVC valve which is controlled by a lever in my cab. I would like to add an extra set of valves on my mid mount to be able to select a grapple function with my joystick. BYW, I have a John Deere 3520 cab model.

If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

Thanks,

Chad


I have looked at these set-ups (as in pic above) at my JD store. I think they are pretty slick in the way they attach to the current JD 3rd function remotes. I AM SURPRISED NOBODY HAS WRITTEN UP A REVIEW OF THIS SET-UP. It's commonly called a "Fasse Diverter" system.

What makes it nice is that a neophyte can hook it up....and you could easily move it from your "old" tractor to your "new" tractor....etc. The couplers that connect the Fasse diverter to the JD remotes are a novel "eccentric" that allow for variations in width. Pretty darn slick.

At the end of the day.....this Fasse set up would likely cost about $100 to $150 more (than buying at the Surplus Center)....but you would have ALL the RIGHT stuff...includeing switches, diagrams, wiring harness, PIONEER COUPLERS, and installation instructions. Not a bad value IMO.

(But....I still didn't buy one. ;) )

Tightwad Foggy :laughing:
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #18  
Poor Man's Top n Tilt? ...that would be the manual one that comes with the tractor. :eek:


(I tried to stop myself from posting this...)
.
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I have looked at these set-ups (as in pic above) at my JD store. I think they are pretty slick in the way they attach to the current JD 3rd function remotes. I AM SURPRISED NOBODY HAS WRITTEN UP A REVIEW OF THIS SET-UP. It's commonly called a "Fasse Diverter" system.

What makes it nice is that a neophyte can hook it up....and you could easily move it from your "old" tractor to your "new" tractor....etc. The couplers that connect the Fasse diverter to the JD remotes are a novel "eccentric" that allow for variations in width. Pretty darn slick.

At the end of the day.....this Fasse set up would likely cost about $100 to $150 more (than buying at the Surplus Center)....but you would have ALL the RIGHT stuff...includeing switches, diagrams, wiring harness, PIONEER COUPLERS, and installation instructions. Not a bad value IMO.

(But....I still didn't buy one. ;) )

Tightwad Foggy :laughing:

Foggy,

I am awaiting on the parts from Surplus Center. That is a nice setup that looks like it includes everything needed. My total for parts was $280, but I am sure some more can be added for doo-dads I will need to complete the installation. I too am cheap and enjoy a challenge. I'll let you know how it goes!

Mike
 
   / Poor Man's Top n Tilt? #20  
Foggy,

I am awaiting on the parts from Surplus Center. That is a nice setup that looks like it includes everything needed. My total for parts was $280, but I am sure some more can be added for doo-dads I will need to complete the installation. I too am cheap and enjoy a challenge. I'll let you know how it goes!

Mike

I've read enough and done enough hydraulic connections to feel comfortable with what your doing also. And....I just may pull the trigger on that set-up myself when I need to.

I just thought some folks may like to see the Fasse-type kit...as it makes life easy.....and the qualitiy appears top-notch (and I'm sure there is a warranty). Then again.....installing new stuff is how we learn. ;):thumbsup:
 

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