At Home In The Woods

[patrick_g]

About running a drain hose 4 ft in walk space... A Harbor freight demo hammer (small electric jack hammer) or equivalent after a couple passes with a diamond masonry blade will neatly chip out enough concrete to let you run a plastic drain pipe just below the surface into the nearest drain or drain of your choice. You can slope it gently downward and enter the drain below the surface. A little patching material and all is good, no trip hazard and you get the drain action you want and need.

I had to "dig" down into my great room floor slab to fix a punctured hydronic heat PEX tube a carpenter drilled into to secure a newel post.

The very idea of taking a jack hammer to my brand new floor bothered me but it went well and after the fact all is good.

Patrick

 

[charlz]

The front porch step and posts got installed. We had the stone guy install the step. He suggested that we cap the top of the step with stone. We liked the idea and went with it.

Are you back-filling up to the height of the cinder block or is there another step to be built there?

 

[Ranger Rick]

About the water heater drain pan. I would think twice about digging up the floor to put in a permanent drain for something that is not supposed to leak. I think I might put a short pipe to direct any water toward the floor drain. I would want to see the first signs of water leaking out of the water heater before it got two bad. This is also something that could wait as it will be a new water heater and should last a number of years.
The house is looking real good. Move in time is coming soon.
Rick

 

[Obed]

Are you back-filling up to the height of the cinder block or is there another step to be built there?

charlz,
I'll be back filling above the cinder block; there will be only one step. I intended to do more backfilling today but got rained out. So I spent this morning cleaning in the basement.

 

[Obed]

Yesterday the 45 days allowed for the " early on" electrical permit ran out. We aren't ready to get our occupancy permit inspection. A couple weeks ago I called the electrical inspector to ask a ground question. During the conversation, he made a point to tell me that our power could get turned off if we didn't make the deadline. He said we could ask for a new inspection and get an extension.

However, this week the inspector told us that we could have a couple more weeks. My wife thinks we can get our OP by then. That doesn't mean we'll move in as soon as we get the permit. It is possible to get the permit before the hw floors get sanded and finished.

 

[dstig1]

You got it - get the CO (OP you call it) to get everyone off your back. Then you can finish at your own pace. There are things you can do to move that up if you really need to. Around here, a big requirement is plumbing - one full functioning bath and a kitchen sink. Hard to get around just really finishing a bathroom, but if your countertops are not ready, slap a piece of plywood/OSB on there and cutout an opening for the sink. Plumb it in and away you go. Once you get the CO, rip it out until the countertops are in. But that is here - you probably have other local "hot buttons" so once you know what they are, get them "done" and get the CO. Then work on finishing up for real.

Getting close! :thumbsup:

 

[Obed]

My wife re-painted the feet for the claw-foot tub to match the color of the door knobs.

 

[doall]

You did good on that tub deal. Your wife did good on the feet. nice.

 

[jinman]

My wife re-painted the feet for the claw-foot tub to match the color of the door knobs.

I would probably never notice such a thing, but a woman who paints her toenails to match her outfit would surely see the unmatched feet first thing.

 

[shane]

But that is here - you probably have other local "hot buttons" so once you know what they are, get them "done" and get the CO. Then work on finishing up for real.

Getting close! :thumbsup:

From what I've seen around here, a couple of the big "hot buttons" are smoke detectors and anything that requires a hand rail.