GC2410 MF block heater problem

[irvingj]

Perhaps I don't need to mention this Gio, but here goes anyway:

Keep in mind, the block heater will help the engine start & get up to temp quickly, BUT the real issue is allowing the tractor to run long enough to warm up the hydraulic fluid.

That's the bugaboo... having the hydraulic fluid warm enough to circulate easily and do its job, under pressure. I don't believe the block heater has much, if any, effect on the hydraulic fluid temp --that's in the transmission at the rear of the tractor.

That's why I use my block heater, as others do, for only about 1/2 to 1 hour, just enough to help the engine start more easily. THEN let the tractor idle long enough to warm the hydraulic fluid by pumping it 'round & 'round.....

Your owner's manual should have a chart that tells the time the tractor should idle, according to temperature, to get the hydraulic fluid warm enough to do its job (without bursting hoses and/or fittings, or worse....). Bad things can happen if the hydraulic fluid isn't warm enough when you start to work it hard!

Maybe you already knew that, and if so, I apologize for going on & on.

 

[MF RED in MT]

+1 for Irving!
The biggest difference I have noticed since install the MF blockheater, is the little tractor starts just like it does in the summer and runs smooth from the start, :thumbsup:. Before installing the blockheater, it sounded like a few loose bolts were going throughout the engine, . The second biggest difference I have noticed since switching to synthetic fluids is the warm up time is shorter in the cold months of Montana, :thumbsup:. KC

 

[cdaigle430]

Perhaps I don't need to mention this Gio, but here goes anyway:

Keep in mind, the block heater will help the engine start & get up to temp quickly, BUT the real issue is allowing the tractor to run long enough to warm up the hydraulic fluid.

That's the bugaboo... having the hydraulic fluid warm enough to circulate easily and do its job, under pressure. I don't believe the block heater has much, if any, effect on the hydraulic fluid temp --that's in the transmission at the rear of the tractor.

That's why I use my block heater, as others do, for only about 1/2 to 1 hour, just enough to help the engine start more easily. THEN let the tractor idle long enough to warm the hydraulic fluid by pumping it 'round & 'round.....

Your owner's manual should have a chart that tells the time the tractor should idle, according to temperature, to get the hydraulic fluid warm enough to do its job (without bursting hoses and/or fittings, or worse....). Bad things can happen if the hydraulic fluid isn't warm enough when you start to work it hard!

Maybe you already knew that, and if so, I apologize for going on & on.

Hey, the chart is an excellent idea. Maybe someone can write one up and post it? I would like to have a print out of this hanging in the garage.

 

[rScotty]

+1 for Irving!
The biggest difference I have noticed since install the MF blockheater, is the little tractor starts just like it does in the summer and runs smooth from the start, . Before installing the blockheater, it sounded like a few loose bolts were going throughout the engine, . The second biggest difference I have noticed since switching to synthetic fluids is the warm up time is shorter in the cold months of Montana, . KC

I'd agree. The block heater heats the block, but not the hydraulic oil. Although my old Yanmar YM336d has a heater for the transmission oil too. 30 years ago I thought this was common but my new Kubota doesn't seem to have that feature.
rScotty

 

[Gio]

Thank You Irving, MF Red and All.

My dealer, Johnson Farm equipment in Fremont NE (great guys by the way) came out and installed my block heater. I also purchased a good Battery charger and some Diesel fuel treatment. I am a bit Paranoid when it comes to things working when I need them so I am trying to cover all my bases. My property sits on 5 acres that could very well be a test ground for windmills. I get huge drifts covering my 1/4 mile driveway and I would be very unhappy if my Tractor failed me on a sub-zero morning when i need to get in to work.

Thanks again for all the sage advice

 

[irvingj]

Here it is, from my GC2310 Owner's Manual, page 29. (Sorry it came out a bit dark... but still readable.)

Keep in mind, this is for the OEM hydraulic fluid, Permatran III.

Many folks (including me soon, I hope) have swapped the "normal" hydraulic fluid for a synthetic type, which remains less viscous at lower temps and requires less warm-up time (and less fuel!).

 

[lambs]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

Finally, I didn't read this entire thread, but some tractors may have room for a lower radiator hose heater, which are pretty inexpensive. I don't think they are as effective as a block heater, but I imagine they work pretty well. I bought one for the 1010 but there was not enough room under the hood to fit it into place.

 

[Don87]

Here it is, from my GC2310 Owner's Manual, page 29. (Sorry it came out a bit dark... but still readable.)

Keep in mind, this is for the OEM hydraulic fluid, Permatran III.

Many folks (including me soon, I hope) have swapped the "normal" hydraulic fluid for a synthetic type, which remains less viscous at lower temps and requires less warm-up time (and less fuel!).

The 2400 series says the same thing.
I may change to synthetic after the warranty expires, dunno though...........Start tractor, come inside where it's warm, drink coffee, scan TBN for new posts, then clear driveway:thumbsup:

 

[Don87]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

Finally, I didn't read this entire thread, but some tractors may have room for a lower radiator hose heater, which are pretty inexpensive. I don't think they are as effective as a block heater, but I imagine they work pretty well. I bought one for the 1010 but there was not enough room under the hood to fit it into place.

That is something I've never thought of or tried with glow plugs.

 

[MF RED in MT]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

I would be afraid that I would turn the switch a little too far just past the GP's while it was already running and engage the starter again, . KC