Plumbing a grapple on a 4110

wawilkie · Dec 28, 2010

Hey Y'all,
Talked to Gator attachments today and have pretty mutch decided on their
LD 48 root grapple. Thinking about plumbing into the rear hydraulics 'till I can afford to do otherwise. Is this something fairley simple for a jackleg to do?
I just can't see shelling out the $600-700 for electric over hydraulic.
Thanks,
William

rback33 · Dec 28, 2010

This should not be too bad to do at all and the way I would do it if I were you. The hardest part may be running the hoses for the third function to the rear of the tractor and making it look neat and tidy as if the factory did it. This really should be a pretty simple little project... just don't forget the pics! :thumbsup:

jpm · Dec 29, 2010

the easest way is to put a valve to control the grapple right under the fel valve. ie; pb to valve,pb back to rear, tee both returns together and no electric to deal with :thumbsup:

rback33 · Dec 29, 2010

jpm said:
the easest way is to put a valve to control the grapple right under the fel valve. ie; pb to valve,pb back to rear, tee both returns together and no electric to deal with :thumbsup:

True, but easiest and most cost effective are not the same thing and cost IS the deciding factor here.

jpm · Dec 30, 2010

a valve is about $100, hoses $100/200,a little welding or drilling and bolts and work and your done.a lot less than electric over hyd.

ihuntbear · Dec 30, 2010

i put a 6 way selector valve on mine.Added a button to my joystick,teed into the plumbing for the bucket tilt and off to the races.total cost 360.00

foggy1111 · Dec 30, 2010

I have mine set-up such as you propose to do. I like the way it operates just fine by using the tractors SCV....and see no reason to add a diverter valve for my needs. If you have the rear remotes and a valve to operate the remotes currently installed on your tractor, your 3/4 of the way home. :thumbsup:

John Deere offers a kit which has the hoses and hard lines to attach to the tractor and to the loader (and run all the way to the front of the loader arms - where you can plug in your grapples hoses). Hoses plug into the rear remotes and are controlled by the SCV next to my right knee....and near the joystick. Maybe Mahiranda offers a kit like this for your tractor? If not, making long hoses and zip tieing em along the route should work out fine.

I have 1/4" hoses at the front on my grapple. They help to reduce the flow and slow things up a bit. I think this is what Gator will furnish for you but you may want to research what couplers you want / need from Gator (to fit into the hoses your going to add).

OH....and if you use the search function in the attachments section with the terms "grapple" or "Gator" or "Markham".....you can do LOTS of reading on other grapple installs. The LD 48" is a good choice.

wawilkie · Dec 30, 2010

Talked to the guy at Gator who's building my grapple and he said that the lines they stub out are 1/4". Told him also to put the pioneer type connectors on, thats what I want, right? Should I run 1/4" all the way back or 3/8" from the back down to 1/4" at the grapple?
Thanks,
William

foggy1111 · Dec 30, 2010

I have 3/8" hose from the rear remotes...which turn into the hard line equivalent at the loader masts.....then forward along the loader frame to the 1/4" grapple connections near the bucket connection area. I'm not 100% sure....but I think you could run 1/4" hose all the way (rear to front) if you don't need the higher flow requirements of a larger hose.

Hint: run a rope r a low cost length of garden hose to determine correct hydraulic hose lengths needed. (good tip from Kennyd - thanks)

Yes, you want pioneer type couplers. Keep in mind that there are about 3 sizes that are commonly found on this size tractor. A little research will get you pointed in the right direction. It's easy to confuse the 1/4" coupler size with the 3/8" size (dont ask me how I know).

Also, the 1/4" size is hard to find. Not too commonly available. You may want to wait for your grapple to come to get the right connections?

wawilkie · Dec 30, 2010

Thanks foggy...gonna get 2 pieces of 3/8" steel made up to go along the lt. loader arm.
The guy at Gator said they stub out 6' from the cyl. should be plenty on that end..then I'll see what I need to get to the rear. Thanks for the input. William