JD 54C Deck--wheel bushing

acs55812 · Jan 1, 2011

Is that a bolt/bushing or shoulder bolt?

beenthere · Jan 1, 2011

Not exactly sure, but when I get to the home page and after I sign in, then I click on the JD Parts Catalog (book cover image - see arrow) and go to this page next (add the model in the blank). That takes me to the second page and under model search can go to attachments and then to the decks.

sgoldste01 · Jan 1, 2011

acs55812 said:
Is that a bolt/bushing or shoulder bolt?

I think it's a bolt/bushing, but I've attached a picture of the backside so that you can see for yourself.

It seems to me that I should be able to drill the "axle" bolt out from the backside, and then perhaps replace it with a shoulder bolt over which I would install the new bushing that came with the gauge wheel. Does this seem like a reasonable approach?

I find it surprising that I would have to replace the whole vertical assembly (the part with the holes that are used to adjust the gauge wheel's height off the ground) in order to replace the worn bushing. I would expect JD to design parts for better maintainability than that, expecially when you get up to a robustly designed product like the LX and GT series tractors.

sgoldste01 · Jan 1, 2011

beenthere said:
Not exactly sure, but when I get to the home page and after I sign in, then I click on the JD Parts Catalog (book cover image - see arrow) and go to this page next (add the model in the blank). That takes me to the second page and under model search can go to attachments and then to the decks.

OK, thanks. The secret was that I needed to create an account and log into the site. What I showed you is what you see if you browse the site without logging in first.

sgoldste01 · Jan 1, 2011

So now that I've figured out how to access the Illustrated Parts List on JDparts.com, this raises a new question.

They provide two part numbers for each arm. For example, the Right Arm is either P/N AM131288 or AM120680. Which one would I order? Or can I use either one? Is one better than the other? For example, if one has replacable bushings and one doesn't have replacable bushings (like my existing arms), I'd prefer to order the one with replacable bushings.

Stormtruck2 · Jan 1, 2011

Thank you gentleman for showing me how to access this resource. I was just using the old paper manual, which may have been superseded since 02:laughing: by new numbers. This is a very helpful resource. This is a great forum. Thanks again guys

kennyd · Jan 1, 2011

I have a quick JDParts tutorial linked in my signature you may find useful.

Mistyridgefarm · Jan 1, 2011

Good luck drilling! I tried it and it is pretty hard steel. When I complained at the parts counter about the bad design, they said the mower wasn't meant to ride on the ground. I guess they were not aware of the jd floating deck quality advantage. At least the one that was in all the sales pitches I heard growing up.

acs55812 · Jan 1, 2011

sgoldste01 said:
I think it's a bolt/bushing, but I've attached a picture of the backside so that you can see for yourself.

It seems to me that I should be able to drill the "axle" bolt out from the backside, and then perhaps replace it with a shoulder bolt over which I would install the new bushing that came with the gauge wheel. Does this seem like a reasonable approach?

I find it surprising that I would have to replace the whole vertical assembly (the part with the holes that are used to adjust the gauge wheel's height off the ground) in order to replace the worn bushing. I would expect JD to design parts for better maintainability than that, expecially when you get up to a robustly designed product like the LX and GT series tractors.

That looks like a allan head on the backside to remove a shoulder bolt.

beenthere · Jan 2, 2011

Mistyridgefarm said:
Good luck drilling! I tried it and it is pretty hard steel. When I complained at the parts counter about the bad design, they said the mower wasn't meant to ride on the ground. I guess they were not aware of the jd floating deck quality advantage. At least the one that was in all the sales pitches I heard growing up.

The parts man was right, the Deere decks are meant to be carried (if adjusted right). And there is a greas zirk on each wheel that will take grease to reduce the wear considerable amount.

I think the decks being carried (deck wheels not touching unless to keep from scalping) goes back to the original 110's in the middle 60's. But I could be wrong.