Lights, Action, duh?

   / Lights, Action, duh? #11  
We could see how these guys do it for best practices....
 

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   / Lights, Action, duh? #12  
If you are running a simple lighting circuit, I would suggest using a quality stranded copper wire that is oil/chemical resistant, runing everything thru teraflex or some other abraision resistant sheathing... and IF you have access or if $$$$ isn't a concern, use Deutch HD or DT series connectors. The connectors aren't expensive, but the special pliers to crimp the pins and sockets are kinda pricey! They are THE standard in the marine, heavy equipment, oil and gas, and OTR industry. If not, there are QUALITY but-splices that are made with heat shrink material... (NOT the universal kit from a local parts store!)
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #13  
I buy, rebuild, and sell a lot of trailers and all my trailers have shrinkable crimp connectors on every splice. They keep the water out and hold tight to the wire coating which keeps any movement from pulling on the connection itself. We work on ranch roads which are very ruff and I have not had to replace any connections since I rewired my trailer three years ago. The connectors are a little pricey at about .15 to .35 cents ea. but are very easy to install and very dependable.
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #15  
Do whatever you want.

Reasons not to solder:
A solder connection can fail if the wire gets hot. This is particularly troublesome in a marine environment where bare wires may cause a short or worse, a spark (Boom!). Solder connections are forbidden by the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). For a tractor it probably won't do any particular harm to you if the connection fails.
A solder blob will create a hard spot in a stranded wire which if subject to vibration can fail due to fatigue.
Solder adds acid which will accelerate corrosion.
Soldering will cause heat damage to the jacketing material.

Solder only if it is not the primary means of connecting the wire; i.e.: the wires are twisted together before soldering.

For connecting wire to wire, a (unsoldered) Western Union splice is sufficient followed by adhesive lined shrink.

Best to use properly sized crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink tubing to seal out water.
Genuinedealz.com my go to site for all things 12 volt.
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #16  
Do whatever you want.

Reasons not to solder:
A solder connection can fail if the wire gets hot. This is particularly troublesome in a marine environment where bare wires may cause a short or worse, a spark (Boom!). Solder connections are forbidden by the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). For a tractor it probably won't do any particular harm to you if the connection fails.
A solder blob will create a hard spot in a stranded wire which if subject to vibration can fail due to fatigue.
Solder adds acid which will accelerate corrosion.
Soldering will cause heat damage to the jacketing material.

Solder only if it is not the primary means of connecting the wire; i.e.: the wires are twisted together before soldering.

For connecting wire to wire, a (unsoldered) Western Union splice is sufficient followed by adhesive lined shrink.

Best to use properly sized crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink tubing to seal out water.
Genuinedealz.com my go to site for all things 12 volt.

I amend my earlier statement to ignore the 'never solder' statement in light of your explanation:eek:
I agree 100% about the risk of soldering for boats, and it sounds like you may own a boat as well as a tractor?
I ask because I own a boat and have done extensive rewiring over the last few years to bring it back to spec and to add many new circuits, instruments, etc.
For a tractor as you mentioned it is not as critical to follow something like the ABYC standards, but the better materials and practices cannot hurt the outcome either. Better to go beyond the minimum and use the best practices and materials- do it once and right the first time.
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #17  
......Solder adds acid which will accelerate corrosion......

Uhh ..... that's why you use ROSIN CORE solder on wiring; NOT acid core :cool:
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #18  
Uhh ..... that's why you use ROSIN CORE solder on wiring; NOT acid core :cool:

ROSIN.... thanks i was wondering . I had come into possession of some small solder which ive used for years worked like a charm. But I dont have much left. Definetly tried the acid core lol the older im using is very small thin like for electonics. I asked at radio shack the guy didnt seem to know much at all.
So its rosin core i need. Is there a solid solder (no core)?
 
   / Lights, Action, duh? #19  
Core not the issue necessarily. Flux, by nature, is acidic.

Yes, Mr Coyote Machine, I am a life long boat addict. My dad and his partners chartered a fleet of boats out of Back Creek (Annapolis), so I grew up doing boat maintenance. Every weekend in the summer we turned the boats around and repaired what the clients blew up.
This all ended several years ago, and I have switched camp to power boats since.
 

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