PTO HP is about 42. I really would like something bigger than 74" because that is the width of back tires, but I would like at least that. I have had access to smaller sizes and I do not like using an offset. I am looking at Bush Hog RTS74-02 and RTN 72 , Woods SGT 72 SGT 80 SGT 88 and GHT 72, Land Pride RTA 3576 and RTA 1274, and the Modern Ag MH74. This is my choice because I want to buy local. I want to go with the SGT 80 or the Land Pride RTA 3576, because of the wider size. I believe one dealer can get KUHN but I know nothing about them or what is available. I am on dialup and is hard to look things up. Any suggestions, and has anyone used these. I believe I fall within the "HP guidelines" of each tiller, although some are closer than others.
Tiller For Kubota MX 5100 HST 4x4
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leonz
Super Member
The Kuhn Brand of rototillers are
heavy duty tillers for farm use and
have been around for a long time
as Kuhn has been making farm
machinery for many years as well.
It all depends on how much you intend to
use the tiller to build beds at the same
time you are tilling or simply tilling flat
ground and leaving it.
The other issue is the hard pan layer and what depth it is.
Do you want to break the hardpan it up every year?
The Berta Rotary Plow is capable of digging down to 14 inches
on the first pass when tilling and you can build raised beds with
them too.
The rotary plow tears the ground up quickly in one pass as wel to
the 14 inch depth breaking up any hardpan.
If the rotary plow hits any rocks it will go over them and then you
can dig the rock out with a shovel.
Using a tiller on a tractor is just like
using a flailmower and leaving no grass uncut.
Drive at creeper gear speed and you will break
all the ground up completely except for rocks.
Another huge issue is whether you have a very
large rock density per foot of width.
This is solved by using a stone burrier to eliminate
the stones as an issue as they are either broken
and buried or buried by the stone burriers digging action
to give you a flat seed bed or a built up bed of soil for
your needs.
IF your willing to wait for your connection The Sicma Company has stone burriers
that you can look at on the internet and Ken Sweet
who is a sponsor of the forum in good standing
carries the Sicma line of machinery.
www.Sicma.it also makes rotary spaders as well which break the ground up quickly
Caroni also is an excellent rotoriller built for
many years as well and they are carried
by Agri Supply - Farm Supplies, Tools, Lawn Mower Blades, Cast Iron Cookware
Another even simpler cost effective option is purchasing a new one bottom plow and replacing the plow share and nose with one Weise conservation tillage plow share which is referred to as a "Mini Moldboard plow".
They have been made for many years and at least one of the National corn growing champions has them on his plows.
You would be able to purchase a disc harrow with the notched discs and smooth discs that can be three point hitch mounted and a bed builder if you want raised beds with the money saved.
And you will be able to plow 14 inches deep everyy year below the hardpan layer with good plow suck and low effort as the moldboard creates very low friction when plowing 14 inches deeep and turning over trash or green manure crops, lime, gypsum, animal manure etc...
www.wiesecorp.com
Last edited:
art
Super Member
Many tillers offer the feature of being able to run offset which would help your overlap problem.
I have a Kubota L5040 with the same engine as your tractor just the glide shift transmission. I have a JD 660 tiller that is 62 inches endplate to endplate. The L5040 seems to have plenty of power for that tiller. My older L4200 would, in heavy soil, lose some RPMs with that tiller. Tillers can really eat horsepower IF you till deep in heavy soil. You can always till slower and higher if your tiller seems as if its lugging the tractor too much.
I understand you not wanting to go the offset route. I made do with the 660 but would like a wider one myself. The tires on my L5040 are 72" wide. My John Deere leaves 1/2 of a single rear tire tack imprinted in the soil. You can work around it but a wider one would be nice.
I think the Bush Hog is made by Sicma and they have a great reputation. The Land Pride 3576 is one I would get if I was going to replace my JD. It would take out my tracks with a couple inches or more to spare. Tillers will till bit wider than they are listed. Almost two inches in practice.
I would get the one I liked best and not worry about the dealer aspect. We've used a JD 660 here and a Rotomec and never had a issue with either. Amost 20 years of combined use and never had to call the dealer on either one for any reason. Tillers arn't going to be going to the dealer for repairs very often if ever.
I've never have any issues with tiller hardpan. I mostly till in the fall and spring. Maybe if I tilled in a dry time it would create a layer of dust over a hardpan but here in Kentucky I've never been able to find a hardpan on my tilled plots or our daylilly beds.
One thing to remember is you need just right soil moisture to till. Too wet and the dirt sticks to the underside of the tiller. I have a gravel patch of fist size and under gravel that I use that takes the dirt right off. If your area has clay without many rocks then soil sticking to the underside and the rear shield can be a issue in wet conditions.
I like the foward rotating tines. I think they handle objects better by climbing over them and they get a better kill on weeds even if two passes are needed. If doing a job in a single pass is important to you then look at the counter rotating tine models.
Gear vs. chain drive I think is pretty much a blonde vs. burnette question. Both can do the job
Make sure you keep the clutch serviced and functioning on your pto shaft. I have jammed several rocks in my JD 660 and my clutch has always worked. I would just turn off the pto, the rock plops out and away I go again.
Good luck and we use our tillers more than any implement other than our brush mowers. I've not hooked up the disc in years.
