755 4WD Front Axle Problem

[kebo]

Best just to load it up and take the whole tractor to the shop, if you don't want to tackle it yourself. That way, the dealer can test it out after the repair is made to make sure all is ok.

After reading your other posts above, it sure seems like something inside the axle has sheared off. When you have it jacked up, with 4x4 engaged and you can see the wheels turning, and you grab the wheel (by hand) and it stops, that tells me that there is just enough friction in the driveline to make the front wheels turn. Grabbing the wheels overcomes the friction in whatever is sheared/busted and causes them to stop, that's obviously why you "have no power in the front wheels".

Good luck with the repair.

 

[carl755]

kebo
I wouldn't mind getting into one of the finals, or even a axle drive shaft replacement, but I don't want to get into the differential, and would rather leave that to the professionals.
I keep hearing from other owners, that most of the problems are usually in the finals. If an axle shaft on one side sheared, or a final failed near the hub, wouldn't the other wheel still pull until it hit something slick? I guess both finals could fail at the same time, or it is something that would affect both sides, like the Ring Gear, or Input Shaft.
Thanks,
Carl

 

[Mechanos]

kebo
I wouldn't mind getting into one of the finals, or even a axle drive shaft replacement, but I don't want to get into the differential, and would rather leave that to the professionals.
I keep hearing from other owners, that most of the problems are usually in the finals. If an axle shaft on one side sheared, or a final failed near the hub, wouldn't the other wheel still pull until it hit something slick? I guess both finals could fail at the same time, or it is something that would affect both sides, like the Ring Gear, or Input Shaft.
Thanks,
Carl

No. The front differential is an "open" differential. The way it is designed, it will direct power to the wheel with the least resistance.

 

[carl755]

mechanos
Guess I am getting too close to this issue..... Glad I have guys like you to keep me on track.

Guess I could still be facing a failure in one of the finals, or a broken axle shaft, but more likely a final. If that is the case, I need to figure out which side.
I can put my finger in the lube hole (left side) and feel the response on the axle shaft, and it is smooth, and positive as I rotate the left wheel back and forth, no hesitation or feeling of slippage whatsoever. Wish I had a lube hole on the right hand side to check that axle.
To me the finals feel good and solid when rocking the wheels back and forth, no loose feeling.
I keep going back to the 'ring gear' thought, but that is not a good one !
Thanks
Carl

 

[Mechanos]

I think it's time to get out the wrenches, put on some rubber gloves (if you so desire) and and start opening things up. At this point.... I just don't see any other way to definitively find the root of your issue. Where are you at in Missouri. If you're not too far from where I'm at, my spare axle might save you a bunch of time and cash over buying all the new seals, parts, etc. depending on what you find out after exploritory surgurey.

 

[carl755]

I think you are right about starting to get into the axle. I am waiting for a friend to assist, who is really busy right now.
I am at the Lake of the Ozarks, snowing here.

I will let you know what I find out when I get into the axle, or give up and take it to the shop, or maybe see if you still have an axle to sell.
The good thing is that the tractor is stored inside, and I really don't need to use it until early in the Spring.

Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions and support
Carl

 

[Mechanos]

You're not too far from me... I'm on the north side of KC. Chances are I'll still have the axle. It's on a parts 855 (same axle as the 755) but it is a different axle than the bigger one in my 955, so I'll never have a use for it.

 

[carl755]

jd110

Removed the left part of the axle at the differential box, and you were right, all six of the bolts holding the Ring Gear were at the bottom of the case. Three had backed out, and the other three were sheared. In a way, it is fortunate that the bottom of the housing is rounded, a perfect place to hold the junk bolts.
There is no damage whatsoever, just need to replace the bolts and the case O-Ring seal.
My thanks to everyone that responded........
Carl

 

[carl755]

I just ordered them, and they are $.70 per bolt. I will use sealant on the new ones, that is for sure.

 

[Mechanos]

That's good news! I would replace them with the exact same bolt and not try to "improve" it with a higher grade bolt. As you can see, they acted like a fuse and kept something else from breaking causing severe damage. Of course, if 3 of them backed completely out, then the torque applied to 3 remaining bolts was double what it should be. Not surprising that the remaining bolts sheared off.

When you go to replace them. Clean the threads in the bolt holes out with some brake parts cleaner to remove the oil from the threads. Then use some medium strength thread locker on the new bolts when you install them. Tighten to 16 ft-lbs.