Modify rear blade to front blade and back?

   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
wvpolekat said:
My only concern would be that it puts it a couple feet out past the end of the loader arms.

That is a concern of mine too that's why I said to remove it off of the 3 point and attach it to the bucket and back to the 3 point.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #12  
No the bucket is attached to the loader arms permanently. I do have a quick hitch sitting doing nothing, just have to figure out how to attach it to the bucket in such a way it can be removed.

That's doable to, even easier.

Just prop that quick hitch in there and figure where it needs to be fastened. The bottom will be easy the top maybe a little trickier.
For the bottom, a plate with a tab welded to it so you could pin/bolt the QH to the tab and bolt the plate down to the bucket.

Just had an idea, how about a heavy threaded eye bolt that you would put the lower QH pin through and pull it down tight with the bolt going through the bottom of the bucket???
That would be quick and cheap. U-bolt also would work, over the lower pin and through the bucket.

For the top it's just gonna be a structural member maybe angle iron bolted to the top of the bucket and pinned to the top of the hitch

Good luck, JB.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #13  
I guess this isnt what he was talking about afterall but since i took the pic, i'm posting it. Having a rake or lightweight blade sticking out there instead of a bucket isnt going to be any heavier than a full scoop of dirt or sand so i see no problem with what i'm doing. Hope it works.
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   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #14  
The main consideration should be some sort of trip mechanism.
Hitting a solid object such as a curb or rock could make your loader arms look like pretzels.
I saw what a curb could do to a bucket arm, not pretty.
And do not think you will remember where all your rocks, curbs etc REALLY are when you have 2 or 3 ft of snow coverage?
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
ole farmerbuck said:
I guess this isnt what he was talking about afterall but since i took the pic, i'm posting it. Having a rake or lightweight blade sticking out there instead of a bucket isnt going to be any heavier than a full scoop of dirt or sand so i see no problem with what i'm doing. Hope it works.

That's the exact same quick hitch I have and need to modify to attach to my bucket
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #16  
I made an adapter, so I can remove my bucket (3 pins), and put the adapter on, then use any of my non-pto powered 3pt attachments.

It works great for some (Forks, subsoiler), not so great for others (blade).

There are 2 problems for the blade on my Kubota 1830. 1, is the blade is too far in front. And, the other, more important, is that the loader arms are very high when the blade is just touching the ground. That makes for some interesting angles when plowing.

I ended up putting a front receiver hitch/bumper on my tractor, bought an old snow-bear brand (Lowes, home depot) snow blade. I mod'd the blade to fit in the hitch receiver for easy hookup, and lift it with my loader. Works like a champ and keeps the pushing forces where they belong.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Can anyone figure out a way I could mount the quick hitch to my bucket? I can't figure out how I could attach it and have it be sturdy but still be able to remove it to use my bucket.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #18  
Can anyone figure out a way I could mount the quick hitch to my bucket?

Did you read #12 above?

U-bolts would be the easiest, just have to drill 4 holes, angle iron on the top link with a 3 more holes drilled, no welding.

.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #19  
I have thought a lot about this.

I think that using the blade via the 3 point hitch will "work", but not work "well".

As jimmer2880 points out, you end up with the blade 5-6' in front of the tractor. Which also means that you are adding quite a bit of leverage to the loader arms.

The 3ph is also designed for the blade to hang below it, meaning that, as jimmer2880 pointed out as well, your loader arms will be raised up fairly high to get the blade on the ground.

My plan, is to use a 6' rear blade. But, basically just use it for the blade portion. An actual snow blade is grossly overpriced at close to $1000 compared to about $300 for a back blade.

Take the rear blade, cut the 3ph assembly off of it. Then use the 3PH steel to fab a mount for it to the front of the tractor.

Remove the loader, mount this up, use the loader valves to control lift and angle.

Only thing I have to work out is a trip of some sort.
 
   / Modify rear blade to front blade and back? #20  
My plan, is to use a 6' rear blade. But, basically just use it for the blade portion. An actual snow blade is grossly overpriced at close to $1000 compared to about $300 for a back blade.

Take the rear blade, cut the 3ph assembly off of it. Then use the 3PH steel to fab a mount for it to the front of the tractor.

Remove the loader, mount this up, use the loader valves to control lift and angle.

Only thing I have to work out is a trip of some sort.



I have to give you credit for taking on such a project, but man that's a lot of work!

Just find a used snow blade, around here they are a dime a dozen, definetly way cheaper than a decent used 3 pt rear blade. I got my 7.5 ft western for a favor. A guy the other day on Craigslist had 5 of them starting at $150.

Using your loaders controls for the 4 way plow is a great way of doing it. That's how mine is set up.

JB
 

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