Hydraulic Filter

[Piper Pacer]

Unfortunatly I think your right. There were several other things that were done that makes me feel the same way.
I found a lot of white crap in the bottom of the transmission case and I will need to flush it out some way with something. What would you use to flush out the system?
On another note I'm taking the fuel injection pump in today to have a health check performed on the pump since it was hard to start without injecting starting fluid. I'm assuming that it was caused by the scored cylinder and low compression but not sure and it's not that easy to just pull the pump without pulling the front cover off the tractor. They want $125 to just run the health check on the pump and if it needs repair then it's $360. Pretty high....

 

[JC-jetro]

Unfortunatly I think your right. There were several other things that were done that makes me feel the same way.
I found a lot of white crap in the bottom of the transmission case and I will need to flush it out some way with something. What would you use to flush out the system?
On another note I'm taking the fuel injection pump in today to have a health check performed on the pump since it was hard to start without injecting starting fluid. I'm assuming that it was caused by the scored cylinder and low compression but not sure and it's not that easy to just pull the pump without pulling the front cover off the tractor. They want $125 to just run the health check on the pump and if it needs repair then it's $360. Pretty high....

Before I spend money on the fuel pump, I'll do an oil change in it. change fuel filter, clean the tank. Pump may be okay but injectors might be dirty. It appears the previous owner was hard and negligent on his rig. I will pick up all the crud from the bottom off diffy. Taking the pump apart to replace the seals or inspect the wear and clean is not difficult and will set you back about $60 if you do it yourself. Obviously you do not want to operate the rig without proper new screen. The bad part is contamination that is very likely has traveled thru lift spool and all the lift system as well. I sure would like flush or clean. lift piston overhaul; should cost you less than$20. I have several thread about the same type of work. You might find them usefull. do use the search tool and you'll find much. Post back with question and we'llbe glad to help if we can.

JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

On another note I'm taking the fuel injection pump in today to have a health check performed on the pump since it was hard to start without injecting starting fluid. I'm assuming that it was caused by the scored cylinder and low compression but not sure and it's not that easy to just pull the pump without pulling the front cover off the tractor. They want $125 to just run the health check on the pump and if it needs repair then it's $360. Pretty high....

There engines always require the use of glow plugs when they are first started. I dont care if it is 60deg they still need the glow plugs. This is what I would check before the injection pump. JC has posted the schematics for the glow plug system in other posts so you should be able to do a search for it if you don't have it.
Bill

 

[Piper Pacer]

JC, you had mentioned that you can rebuild the hydraulic pump for about $20 and I was wondering where I could purchase the o-ring set to rebuild the pump?
Does New Holland sell this kit?

Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, you had mentioned that you can rebuild the hydraulic pump for about $20 and I was wondering where I could purchase the o-ring set to rebuild the pump?
Does New Holland sell this kit?

Thanks

Dennis,

I bought the Pump overhaul kit from NH directly. It was not $20... It was abou $40. That include all the internal o-rings and bushing seals that vary from pump to pump. What the kit did not include was the main input shaft seals that is double edged with a spring in it. That was sold separately for about $12. Frankly, I did think there were any problems with the internal o rings or bushing seal. The shaft seal was a bit dry and crumbly and that was where my problem lied. I changed them all as I already bought the kit.

JC,

ps. I used my dremel tool and left witness mark on pump segment and bushings to make sure It went together as it was. Be careful with the bushing and their orientations.


Link to pump pics:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html

 

[Piper Pacer]

All, I purchased a single handled control lever to replace the dual leaking controls for my loader and was wondering if there was something special that had to be added or done to make it work?
I tried it once before and the bucket would go up but it wouldn't releave the pressure so that the lift would go back down. Actually it would go down but real real slow..........Any ideas?

Dennis

 

[JC-jetro]

Dennis,

Would it go down fast if you tried it? I'm thinking of some obstruction in the return line. Are you saying, with your joystick in neutral position then loader drops down slowly? if so You might have a leak in you lift cylinder or your joystick is not completely in neutral position ( not completely bypassing all flow back to the reservoir and holding tight in the lift cylinder.

JC,

 

[Piper Pacer]

JC, what I remember when I tried it, a year ago or more, was that it would go up just fine but would go down real slow almost not moving at all. I took the new joystick drawings and made sure I had the hoses in the right position and looked correct.
I finally put the original two handle joystick controller back on and it works fine.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, what I remember when I tried it, a year ago or more, was that it would go up just fine but would go down real slow almost not moving at all. I took the new joystick drawings and made sure I had the hoses in the right position and looked correct.
I finally put the original two handle joystick controller back on and it works fine.

Guys will chime in but I think you have some blockage in the new valve. by action of a internal spring/ check valve flow has to diverted back to reservoir once the loader height is achieved. Your hyd pump is constantly pumping without stop and the flow got to be bypassed back to reservoir and cycle continues. conversely when you want to lower the loader the joystick should bleed some fluid back to reservoir to lower the bucket. if that port is plugged or partially plugged then you'll end up with the situation you have. Going back to 2 handle control valves and eliminating the problem you had is indication enough that your return path is not plugged at the hyd block and the issue is with your new spool.

JC,