Hydraulic question

[wood butcher]

You can search couple of thread I opened under my name that explains the procedure with lots of pics. If you can't find it I can dig it up and post a link.

JC,


Pump overhaul kit and the shaft seal ran about $55. from NH loacal dealer.

If you could post some links I'd appreciate it. I looked and couldnt find much. Thanks for all of your help. One other thing I thought of. My 3 point would drop overnight if I left the arms up when I shut her down. That seems like a blown seal or something...to me.

 

[wood butcher]

Just checked the fluid in the reservoir (on the dipstick)...not milky, however the fluid in the lift cylinders and the power steering reservoir is milky. Is the PS reservoir independent of the rest of the hydraulic fluid or does it all draw from the same place? If it's independent, why would there be water in the PS reservoir?

 

[J_J]

Unless it is a closed system, you can get water in the fluid. If it is milky, change it. Keep the tractor covered if possible. You were saying you had twice the amount of fluid. How can that be. If the new fluid is milky, you are moving fluid somewhere.

 

[jinman]

Just checked the fluid in the reservoir (on the dipstick)...not milky, however the fluid in the lift cylinders and the power steering reservoir is milky. Is the PS reservoir independent of the rest of the hydraulic fluid or does it all draw from the same place? If it's independent, why would there be water in the PS reservoir?

If you have a separate PS reservoir, it is independent. Who knows how water got there, but it needs to be drained and refilled too. If you don't change it, you may damage your PS pump which should be separate from your main pump.

With JC's help, your overhaul of the main pump should be much easier. Since he is helping, I think you can safely do this job.

You know, it occurs to me that the reason your main reservoir was so overfilled is that maybe the previous owner had to overfill it to get it to work at all. It seems if there was enough suction to fill the filter, your pump should be doing something, but there are more questions than answers about your system.

 

[wood butcher]

If you have a separate PS reservoir, it is independent. Who knows how water got there, but it needs to be drained and refilled too. If you don't change it, you may damage your PS pump which should be separate from your main pump.

With JC's help, your overhaul of the main pump should be much easier. Since he is helping, I think you can safely do this job.

You know, it occurs to me that the reason your main reservoir was so overfilled is that maybe the previous owner had to overfill it to get it to work at all. It seems if there was enough suction to fill the filter, your pump should be doing something, but there are more questions than answers about your system.

That's a good point. This tractor was advertised as something it isn't. I bought it on ebay and took the owners word on it's condition. I bet the pump was shot and they overfilled it just to sell it to some sucker (me). I ended up leaving bad feedback for them...big deal...that wont cause them as much headache as this tractor has caused me. Irritating. Thanks for your input. I really appreciate your thinking through this with me.

 

[wood butcher]

Unless it is a closed system, you can get water in the fluid. If it is milky, change it. Keep the tractor covered if possible. You were saying you had twice the amount of fluid. How can that be. If the new fluid is milky, you are moving fluid somewhere.

When I bought the tractor it had twice the amount of fluid it needed in it. I drained all of it and refilled with clean fluid. So far there's still clean fluid in the reservoir but there's milky fluid in the lift cylinders. That tells me the pump isn't moving the fluid. If we don't get a ton of ice and snow tonight I'm going to the NH dealer and get a NH filter. If that doesn't at least improve the situation I'll need to try to prime the pump to see if I can get it to do something. I think I'm in for a new hydro pump, unfortunately.

 

[barbqranch]

Even if the pump and everything else is working properly, it is still difficult to get all the milky hydraulic fluid out of the cylinders, since they are a dead-end circuit.

 

[JC-jetro]

If you could post some links I'd appreciate it. I looked and couldnt find much. Thanks for all of your help. One other thing I thought of. My 3 point would drop overnight if I left the arms up when I shut her down. That seems like a blown seal or something...to me.

Wood butcher,

Below I'll attach couple of threads that probably give you more information that you might need but they are good as many good folks had great input there as well. I'm going to give you a short synopsis here, read them and if you have questions then bring it up. Guys here and myself will be glad to help. I noticed you did have issue with your lift system and it covers it well.


Although, there might be several reasons causing slow drop of 3 point arm probably 9 out of 10 is lift piston piston seal. On many tractor it is quite involved just to get to the piston but in Ford/Shibaura it is quite easy and top cover need not be removed. Cost of new seal is under $10 and it take about an hr tops to do it. it take less than cost of the oil change to have a brand new seal installed. This is covered in my link.

Few pointers to share with pump overhaul.

1. The banjo connection on the pump has O-rings, I replaced them all although it was not necessary. A package of assorted metric HF o-ring will be all you need.
2. Cleanness is very important as far as inside the guts of the pump, would not care about outside.
3. pump comes in several different sections (3 with ours), make sure to put some scratch mark (witness mark) to remove any guess work later on when you put things back.

4. Remove connecting bolts (with allen head) in a criss cross fashion and put them back the same. don't over tighten as you might damage the rubber seal and orings. I have not seen torque rating but make them just" good and tight).

5. inspect the inside of the case and gears for sign of damage , change of color due to overheating. A partially damaged pump might still pump some but efficiency and the flow is severely reduced.

6. You'll have bushing and friction bearing inside the bushing (same as crankshaft bearing). The tolerances are tight so don't force thing when the fit is tight. like the engine, the wear pattern might be unique in each cylinder and piston. same thing is true when pumps break in. The bushing is interchangeable, make sure to put witness mark to put them back in exactly the same spot. orientation of the bushing is very important because by built in geometry they form inlet and out let chambers. Take picture so if memory fail you you can go back to refresh.

7. After cleaning all the inside make sure to use a generous amount of fresh NH-134 oil to get a film coat on all parts.

8. Pump overhaul kit does not come with shaft seal and need to be purchased separately.


Take a look and let us know if you have any questions.

JC,







http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/88973-sos-i-have-my-first.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html

 

[wood butcher]

JC, thank you for the post. Very informative. I'll get out there and take a look at it after this snow and ice dies down and it's a bit warmer. I looked at the pictures you posted on the other posts and it made me think there might be a clogged screen somewhere that's causing the fluid to not move. I looked at the diagram for the hydro system on this tractor and I don't see a screen.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, thank you for the post. Very informative. I'll get out there and take a look at it after this snow and ice dies down and it's a bit warmer. I looked at the pictures you posted on the other posts and it made me think there might be a clogged screen somewhere that's causing the fluid to not move. I looked at the diagram for the hydro system on this tractor and I don't see a screen.

Well, I went to work and we all got sent home due to sever weather. I'll be home all day and nothing to do I might go to NH website and take a look at the hydro set up. I don't believe you have any screen there but will verify. You need to go and use NH website, they have complete parts breakdown on all system. it is an invaluable resource.

JC,