Hydraulic top link

Canada_CT230 · Jan 31, 2011

That may be true but if I was scarifing the surface and the teeth were digging in too much I can adjust the angle on the fly. Your system would need to stop and remove the implement from the ground and adjust and try again. Seems too tedious.

tonydn6 · Feb 1, 2011

I agree with Canada...hydraulink may be ok but I will stick with my CCM toplink and adjust on the fly. I just got my CCM HTL a few weeks ago and don't know how I ever went without the HTL. Never going back to manual adjustment again!:laughing:

VictorW · Feb 1, 2011

Surplus Center, advertiser on tbn, has these top links available. Two have the check valve on them. Just an idea if CCM falls through. They also have just about any hydraulic part you might ever need plus other stuff. I've bought from them before and have had fast delivery. They also have the hydraulink for $229.

Surplus Center

HydrauLink · Feb 1, 2011

Canada_CT230 said:
That may be true but if I was scarifing the surface and the teeth were digging in too much I can adjust the angle on the fly. Your system would need to stop and remove the implement from the ground and adjust and try again. Seems too tedious.

Actually, it shouldn't work like that. The implement can usually be adjusted by simply opening the valve and rolling forward a few inches. It typically doesn't need to be removed from the ground to do so. Of course, there is no one blanket answer for all situations but that has been our experience.

teg · Feb 2, 2011

VictorW said:
...I've bought from them before and have had fast delivery...http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&byKeyword=yes&search=toplink

Wow, I had the slowest delivery from them...UPS took 2.5 days to deliver the package... took SC an average of 5 days to fill it?!?

VictorW · Feb 3, 2011

teg said:
Wow, I had the slowest delivery from them...UPS took 2.5 days to deliver the package... took SC an average of 5 days to fill it?!?

Maybe I just caught them during their slow times.

Usually received my things in 4 days via UPS. I just threw them out there if somebody wanted to look at various things.

horticattleman · Feb 12, 2011

I bought a hydraulic toplink and wonder sometimes how I made do before. I too see it as much easier than the manual adjustable one. I fail to see the safety when I am halfway turned around adjusting the thing.

Anyway I am hard headed and failed to listen to some other members here and DIDN'T buy the one with the check valve. BIG mistake. I bought it from Surplus Center and am happy with it but see the importance of the check valve.

arsenix2001 · Feb 12, 2011

horticattleman said:
Anyway I am hard headed and failed to listen to some other members here and DIDN'T buy the one with the check valve. BIG mistake. I bought it from Surplus Center and am happy with it but see the importance of the check valve.

Whys that? Do you have leak down problems? Im just curious as there were some heated arguments along time ago where some were saying the check valves were pointless with modern remotes. I personally have them on my htl though and like the peace of mind.

teg · Feb 12, 2011

Not sure if this is a "plus" or a "minus"... my wife uses the tractor, too and I try and encourage her to use it when she wants... The top link is pretty darn heavy so I guess I'll still be hooking things up for her...

Now it's time for the side link!!!

MtnViewRanch · Feb 12, 2011

arsenix2001 said:
Whys that? Do you have leak down problems? Im just curious as there were some heated arguments along time ago where some were saying the check valves were pointless with modern remotes. I personally have them on my htl though and like the peace of mind.

I am one of those people that do not have any check valves on my top links or side links on either of my 2 tractors with top and tilt. I have had no problems not having them. I'm not saying that the cylinder does not move, they do, anywhere from 1/8"- 1/4". This is from hose flex expansion and contraction. No big deal, I think that when you have a faulty valve that's when you have a problem. Now my aftermarket valve on my smaller tractor did go bad and my "TnT" hydraulics were leaking down pretty bad. Changed out the four O rings in the 2 spool valve (less than an hour job) and I no longer have leak down in my cylinders.

Moral of the story, the problem is not with the cylinders, but with the valves. When you have high dollar valves, you don't get this problem. I am relatively certain that no commercial tractor that comes from the factory with top and tilt hydraulics has any DPOCV mounted on the cylinder.