WHAT METER TO BUY ?

   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #11  
The cheaper ones will do what you are doing now, and I thought a cheaper one would be handy too. Anyone that can give any insight on the cheaper non fused meters that are put on the wrong setting on higher voltage/amperage while in hand? Heard they can blow up or cause serious burns..
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #12  
There was a survey done in Canada that showed 1 in 10 electricians had experienced a catastrophic meter failure. These are guys using meters all the time, although at typically much higher voltage levels than most of us see.

That is part of what drove the development/specification of pro-level test leads with high interrupt (1,000's of amps) capacity built-in fuses.

If you regularly test above 30 volts, make sure your meter has at least the basic approvals for your geography (CSA, UL, VDE.....). I'm pretty careful with instruments, but will admit to blowing fuses. A good habit to get into is pull the lead from the current (I) socket as soon as you are finished taking your current reading -it's easy to forget, and flick the switch to voltage, connect the leads to a voltage source - boom. At low voltages, the fuse goes - at high voltage, I've seen a Fluke 7x years ago that our Marketing VP fried in the field - the centre 1/3 of that meter PCB was charcoal, but the outer case easily contained the energy burst. That was high voltage DC exposure, not something most people get into (good thing) at home, but a lesser meter would be REALLY scary under those conditions.

For testing AC in the house, most people would be better off using an approved tester that just has indicator lights - Go, NoGo, Faults.

Using a cheapie digital meter on a car/truck/tractor can help you figure out a problem providing you always check the meter connection integrity. I've found that the plating on the connectors is so cheap now, that if the meter sits long enough (I'm not talking out the rain), the connection is actually "Open". If doing 12v checks, regularly measure the battery voltage to make sure your meter leads are working properly. You'll find you have to rotate the connector lead in the socket, to regain connectivity, at least for a little while.

Fixing a problem on a vehicle can be frustrating. Replacing parts, and burning time trying to fix a "problem" that is nothing more than a cheap meter not working properly can be addressed by using a large hammer, then followed by going to buy a Fluke. :thumbsup:

Be safe. If you are unsure about a measurement or connection, go find someone who knows more about electrons than you do.

Rgds, D.
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
HEEHAW .....ITS NOT TO LATE . I GOT INVOLVED IN TEARING APART MY TRACTOR AND DIDN'T BUY ONE YET. DO YOU HAVE A NAME FOR THAT METER FROM WM.? IT MIGHT BE A DAY OR TWO BEFORE I NEED IT.
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #14  
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #15  
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #16  
There was a survey done in Canada that showed 1 in 10 electricians had experienced a catastrophic meter failure. These are guys using meters all the time, although at typically much higher voltage levels than most of us see.

That is part of what drove the development/specification of pro-level test leads with high interrupt (1,000's of amps) capacity built-in fuses.

If you regularly test above 30 volts, make sure your meter has at least the basic approvals for your geography (CSA, UL, VDE.....). I'm pretty careful with instruments, but will admit to blowing fuses. A good habit to get into is pull the lead from the current (I) socket as soon as you are finished taking your current reading -it's easy to forget, and flick the switch to voltage, connect the leads to a voltage source - boom. At low voltages, the fuse goes - at high voltage, I've seen a Fluke 7x years ago that our Marketing VP fried in the field - the centre 1/3 of that meter PCB was charcoal, but the outer case easily contained the energy burst. That was high voltage DC exposure, not something most people get into (good thing) at home, but a lesser meter would be REALLY scary under those conditions.

For testing AC in the house, most people would be better off using an approved tester that just has indicator lights - Go, NoGo, Faults.

Using a cheapie digital meter on a car/truck/tractor can help you figure out a problem providing you always check the meter connection integrity. I've found that the plating on the connectors is so cheap now, that if the meter sits long enough (I'm not talking out the rain), the connection is actually "Open". If doing 12v checks, regularly measure the battery voltage to make sure your meter leads are working properly. You'll find you have to rotate the connector lead in the socket, to regain connectivity, at least for a little while.

Fixing a problem on a vehicle can be frustrating. Replacing parts, and burning time trying to fix a "problem" that is nothing more than a cheap meter not working properly can be addressed by using a large hammer, then followed by going to buy a Fluke. :thumbsup:

Be safe. If you are unsure about a measurement or connection, go find someone who knows more about electrons than you do.

Rgds, D.

hmmm..glad to see people bring up this subject. There might be a place to use a cheap meter, but alot of people will eventually use the same meter to test higher voltage and not know the precautions involved. Even though I use a fluke, I still test, look at the leads for any type of crack (very shocking) and have experience with that. I'de spend a little more for top of the line that will last a lifetime and can be used on most things people have. I know a 12v battery is only involved, but see so many people buy these cheap testers and later try to use them on 120-240 volt and do not no the hazards involved.
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #17  
When I was working, I used a top of the line digital clamp-on ammeter with a variety of functions and voltage ranges. When I retired, the meter retired with me. Now, I use a 26 year old Radio Shack analog multimeter around the place 99% of the time. However, I did recall the digital clamp-on from retirement recently to troubleshoot my septic system aerator. The aerator was blowing fuses. The solution was to replace a 4 amp CB with a 7 amp CB. The digital clamp-on was able to show the AC current surge that was causing the 4 amp CB to operate, but the 7 amp CB could handle.
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #18  
I have over a dozen testers most of them from harbor freight & radio shack all work pretty good I have couple analog meters as well as a couple 2000+volt testers. used many different versions and brands. honestly if you know what you are doing for most situations a cheap meter is as good as a expensive one and when you drop that 5 buck HF meter you dont have to worry about it. Reason I have so many it was more than once that I hit a bargain and picked up 2 or 3 just because they were on clearance and the price was less than a new battery! ANYHOW the newer 3 buck meters are pretty good for the fact they are less expensive than a new 9volt battery. The leads are pretty cheap and I would not suggest them for anyone measuring 120/240 but functional for automotive uses for sure. There are older versions and better quality HF units in the 10~15 buck range that have better leads and probably a couple % more accurate than the 3 buck ones. I do like having the analog units available too as you can pick up small fast fluctuations in voltages or amperage.

SO if you are an industrial electrician maintenance ect then a FLuke is a good meter to have other wise it is just for occasional automotive house & farm measuring then the under 30 buck meters will do plenty...

Mark
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #19  
How come you type with all capital letters?
If you only knew how annoying that is to read.
 
   / WHAT METER TO BUY ? #20  
I have seen some really nice meters for a reasonable price at a pawn shop.
Just a thought.
 

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