2520 3PH Vertical Travel Adjustment

[WilliamD]

I have what I hope is a simple question.

How can I adjust the vertical travel of the 3PH hitch? I have an iMatch and when I attach my new Wallenstein BX42 (lifting off of the shipping pallet), it won't lower far enough down where it sits firmly on the ground. It needs to go down probably another inch to sit on the ground and another 3 or 4" to disengage from the iMatch. From the pallet, this seems to work perfectly. The pallet is about 4-5" high.

I would expect that without the iMatch, it would be rather difficult to install as I would have trouble getting lower arms onto the pins.

-- Bill

 

[beenthere]

Add feet (or skids) to the BX42 to get it higher, or just move the pins up for the iMatch to grab.
Or lengthen the lift arms that are between the rocker arms and the lower 3 ph arms.
A pic of your 3 ph might help point out some helpful hints.

 

[kennyd]

Aren't there two different holes you can use on the lower arms? (where the lift-links connect)

 

[WilliamD]

Here are pictures of the 3PH -- should be nothing particularly out of the ordinary. In the picture of the iMatch, it is lowered as far as it will go.

 

[dmay]

On your 3PH the lift link arms connect to the draft link arms. The draft link arms have three possible positions to connect the lift link arms to. Depending on where yours are connected you may be able to lower the draft link position.

 

[WilliamD]

On your 3PH the lift link arms connect to the draft link arms. The draft link arms have three possible positions to connect the lift link arms to. Depending on where yours are connected you may be able to lower the draft link position.

That would be my first try, IF I had 3 possible positions... but I don't -- I have two -- the one nearest the tractor (marked 1 in the 1st photo) is connected to the turnbuckle to adjust the swaying of the draft links, the outer one (marked 2 in the 1st photo) is connected to the link arms.


OK, so this is not going to be such an easy adjustment.

What do you think of adding a new hole on the iMatch, which would effectively lower it? (See 2nd photo - drill where the "X" is)

One additional alternative I just thought of would be to replace the non-adjustable lift-link arm on the left side with one that can adjust (like on the right). Any issues with that?

 

[RoyJackson]

What do you think of adding a new hole on the iMatch, which would effectively lower it? (See 2nd photo - drill where the "X" is)

One additional alternative I just thought of would be to replace the non-adjustable lift-link arm on the left side with one that can adjust (like on the right). Any issues with that?

I think it would be easier to remove the QuickHitch and just use the lower draft links to hook up.
Drilling holes where you indicated would seem to interfere wih the locking mechanism of the Quickhitch.

So, first I'd call Wallenstein and explain the problem to them...see what their response is. In the interim, use a couple lengths of 4x4's to set the chipper down so you can use it (temporary fix). I just looked at a picture of the BX42 and cannot see anyway you could raise the implement pins unless you welded brackets on the chipper (which might result in spacing problems for the quickhitch).

There was a post or thread discussing a similar problem (on TBN) a while back. IIRC, the end result was to pull the lift arms (the arms that are actuated by the rockshaft lever) and rotate them. I can't recall how their positions were keyed, but it did allow the arms to be re-indexed. Hopefully, someone else will recall this thread.

 

[dmay]

the one nearest the tractor (marked 1 in the 1st photo) is connected to the turnbuckle to adjust the swaying of the draft links, the outer one (marked 2 in the 1st photo) is connected to the link arms.

So what about link arm in #1 and add a longer turnbuckle so you can move this to #2?

 

[kennyd]

I would check the driveshaft on the chipper first-you want it as straight as possible when the blower on on the ground and operating. On my Gossen chipper, I had to remove about 3" from the stand to get that. It would be far easier to build up the base of the chipper as long (as the driveshaft remains straight) then to drill or modify the iMatch or draft arms.

 

[Runner]

I always just throw a couple of 4x4's on the ground under the chipper when I'm using it, so it sits high enough to keep the drive shaft level.

For storage, I keep mine on a dolly that is high enough to allow the iMatch to clear it when attaching/detaching.