I'm not trying to derail anything here, but if there is a leak then oil would be coming out of that leak. How is dust getting past that? If there were a large enough separation between parts or a hole in the block, the engine isn't going to be running anyway. And how does the dust that gets past an air filter survive the explosion and ejection through the exhaust, then make it past all the piston rings? Even if a particle survived one cycle, it still would have to make it past the rings. I'd say that any quantity measured in an oil test would be so negligible that it wouldn't make one bit of difference anyway.
Would synthetic oil benefit me?
- Thread starter hrcarver
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I'm not trying to derail anything here, but if there is a leak then oil would be coming out of that leak. How is dust getting past that? If there were a large enough separation between parts or a hole in the block, the engine isn't going to be running anyway. And how does the dust that gets past an air filter survive the explosion and ejection through the exhaust, then make it past all the piston rings? Even if a particle survived one cycle, it still would have to make it past the rings. I'd say that any quantity measured in an oil test would be so negligible that it wouldn't make one bit of difference anyway.
Gary Fowler
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I wont enter the argument over where the dirt goes thru the air intake filter thru the pistons and into the oil, but I will say this, I would bet that more dirt gets into the oil pan from pulling the dipstick frequently to check the level or removing the oil filler cap than comes thru the pistons via air intake.
I once knew a guy that checked his oil on his brand new Chevy every time he drove it (daily) and I am sure that any oil consumption shown was from his wiping the dip stick off everytime and reinserting it which likely passed dirt particles directly into the crankcase. Once you know your engine a bit, daily checking is not normal from my point of view especially if you only ran it for 10 miles or .5 hour. Now if you see a drip spot at your parking area, then that is another issue that needs investigation.
I once knew a guy that checked his oil on his brand new Chevy every time he drove it (daily) and I am sure that any oil consumption shown was from his wiping the dip stick off everytime and reinserting it which likely passed dirt particles directly into the crankcase. Once you know your engine a bit, daily checking is not normal from my point of view especially if you only ran it for 10 miles or .5 hour. Now if you see a drip spot at your parking area, then that is another issue that needs investigation.
dmccarty
Super Star Member
Trips only a couple of miles makes things interesting.
I have been using Shell 5Wx40 and now JD 0Wx40 oil for years in my truck and tractor along with UOA. I drive 72ish miles a day that is mostly rural, 55mph driving. Very little stop and go.
The last UOA was 12K-13K and the oil was still in great shape. I should have called the lab because the TBN was at 12 which is very high.
Years ago my route was slightly different and I would get stuck in heavy stop and go traffic for 15-30 minutes a day. It was a small bit of time and mileage on the oil but that little bit of stop and go was a problem. UOA showed fuel in the oil. Not a bad amount but enough that you could not put 10-12K on the oil. My tractor oil was showing the fuel as well. I very seldom run at PTO speeds unless mowing. I was simply not running at a high enough RPM on the tractor, 1500-1600ish, so I pushed it up to 1800ish and the fuel in the oil went away.
Without UOA on the oil you would just be making guesses regarding when to change the oil. Driving short trips would worry me regarding fuel in the oil. The off road trips could as well depending on RPM. UOA would tell you for sure. I use Blackstone Oil Labs for years and have no complaints. Years ago there was a review of UOA labs and Blackstone was the best.
Later,
Dan
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While synthetics retain viscosity longer, they hold dirt just the same. Extended time between changes just makes the oil that much dirtier. Honestly, if you are changing oil at 3-5k, you are better off running conventional oils and not wasting your money on synthetics.
JayC
If you compare the test specifications, the only difference anymore is synthetic oil handles very high, and very low temperatures better. That, and synthetic oil is capable of lasting longer.
If you don't need to operate in extreme temperatures, or desire to run long change intervals, you will not benefit from using synthetic oil.
5k mile changes with mineral oil, is ideal for most people.
If you don't need to operate in extreme temperatures, or desire to run long change intervals, you will not benefit from using synthetic oil.
5k mile changes with mineral oil, is ideal for most people.
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All I will say is, Run your vehicle without or a low quality air filter . then, send in an oil sample for test. The dirt/dust will show up
clemsonfor
Super Member
What about a good wix filter or bosh, or purolator, or fram (just kidding i know how so many of folks think fram is junk), will you still see the dirt?
kenmac
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PoorMansCat
Platinum Member
5-7.5K is fine for dino carcasses. Just use a quality engine oil and filter.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I agree with the general consensus here.
Technology has improved oil BIGTIME. A good synthetic and a high quality filter and you can easially go 8-10k+.
But to elaborate on a few things mentioned. When people say a quality oil filter, they arent refering to a "ph" fram or STP either.
I know there are more but I'll name a few of the "quality" filters IMO
Napa GOLD, WIX, Purolater, "xg" series fram, K&N
These are some examples of quality filters but expect to pay ~$10 each, not $2-$3.
Also, if you extend your interval, be sure and check the oil often until you get to "know" your engine and how much oil it burns.
All engines burn oil. And according to most manufactures, 1 quart burned ever 1000 miles is still an acceptable level before an overhaul/rebuild is required. So if you never check your oil, you may be burning a quart or more every 3000 miles. But you may never know if you are always changing it @ 3000mi and only a quart low. But now if you push it to 5-6k miles, you are now going to be 2 qts low. You get the idea.
My saturn gets oil changes ever 10k. It burns about 1/2 qt every 1500-2000miles, which isnt bad. And if I did oil changes @ 3k, would be no big deal. But since it only holds 4qts, if I never checked it, it would be bone dry well before my next change.
Also, my personal filter of choice is the fram "XG" series. Fram got a bad rap, but the XG's are top notch. Good synthetic media, etc.
Technology has improved oil BIGTIME. A good synthetic and a high quality filter and you can easially go 8-10k+.
But to elaborate on a few things mentioned. When people say a quality oil filter, they arent refering to a "ph" fram or STP either.
I know there are more but I'll name a few of the "quality" filters IMO
Napa GOLD, WIX, Purolater, "xg" series fram, K&N
These are some examples of quality filters but expect to pay ~$10 each, not $2-$3.
Also, if you extend your interval, be sure and check the oil often until you get to "know" your engine and how much oil it burns.
All engines burn oil. And according to most manufactures, 1 quart burned ever 1000 miles is still an acceptable level before an overhaul/rebuild is required. So if you never check your oil, you may be burning a quart or more every 3000 miles. But you may never know if you are always changing it @ 3000mi and only a quart low. But now if you push it to 5-6k miles, you are now going to be 2 qts low. You get the idea.
My saturn gets oil changes ever 10k. It burns about 1/2 qt every 1500-2000miles, which isnt bad. And if I did oil changes @ 3k, would be no big deal. But since it only holds 4qts, if I never checked it, it would be bone dry well before my next change.
Also, my personal filter of choice is the fram "XG" series. Fram got a bad rap, but the XG's are top notch. Good synthetic media, etc.
