Refinishing fiberglass entry door

   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #11  
Which, of course, would be Deere green with yellow trim...sorry, wife picked the door out and she wants to keep it as it is (honey oak finish). That is interesting to think of though, taking it to a body shop...wonder if the fiberglass doors are constructed like my brothers Corvette, next time he visits I will ask him if I can hammer on his fender to compare the flex between his car and my door....

Just swap him doors!:thumbsup:
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Just swap him doors!:thumbsup:

Funny to think about, his car is custom painted metallic black with a color changing one foot center band running along the side...don't think my wife would approve.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #13  
For my basement doors I used a gel stain. Any wood stain will work, I also found a wood graining tool and used that to make my fiberglass doors look like wood to match our basement.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #14  
Which, of course, would be Deere green with yellow trim...sorry, wife picked the door out and she wants to keep it as it is (honey oak finish). That is interesting to think of though, taking it to a body shop...wonder if the fiberglass doors are constructed like my brothers Corvette, next time he visits I will ask him if I can hammer on his fender to compare the flex between his car and my door....

Actually, usually neither fiberglass doors, or corvettes are made out of the same material, and neither are what everyone thinks of as fiberglass. The term fiberglass reinforced plastic, is more accurate.

The faces of the doors are usually made out of a plastic material called GRP.

Corvettes have been made out of a material called SMC since the early 70's. SMC is a plastic material, that comes in sheets. It is a soft flexible product, until it is put into a press, and heated. There is fiberglass fiber in it, but it is nothing like the material made with resin and cloth, or mat, like boats made out of.

Taking a door to a body shop is an option, but usually an expensive one. I have sprayed many doors, and trim pieces, with automotive finishes, in my shop. No one ever likes the price.

I now spray doors solid colors, with products like Rustoleum satin enamel. Take it off, lay it down on saw horses, in the sun. Thin the paint 10%, and spray one side, one day, the other side the next.

I sprayed a fiberglass door for myself last year. I painted it white, and it looks just as good as if I used automotive paint, for a fraction of the cost.

If the OP insists on staying with the stained wood look, I would also go with the ThermaTru kit, as Jinman suggested.

As stated, the old finish must be removed. There is nothing you can put over the top of a finish, to make what is under it, adhere. If any part of it has peeled, the rest of it will probably peel too.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #15  
Another thought would going to the local Sherwin Williams store or their equivalent and see what they recommend.

Although I do recall that Sherwin makes Miniwax. They may also make the kits for ThermaTru.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Actually, usually neither fiberglass doors, or corvettes are made out of the same material, and neither are what everyone thinks of as fiberglass. The term fiberglass reinforced plastic, is more accurate.

The faces of the doors are usually made out of a plastic material called GRP.

Corvettes have been made out of a material called SMC since the early 70's. SMC is a plastic material, that comes in sheets. It is a soft flexible product, until it is put into a press, and heated. There is fiberglass fiber in it, but it is nothing like the material made with resin and cloth, or mat, like boats made out of.

Taking a door to a body shop is an option, but usually an expensive one. I have sprayed many doors, and trim pieces, with automotive finishes, in my shop. No one ever likes the price.

I now spray doors solid colors, with products like Rustoleum satin enamel. Take it off, lay it down on saw horses, in the sun. Thin the paint 10%, and spray one side, one day, the other side the next.

I sprayed a fiberglass door for myself last year. I painted it white, and it looks just as good as if I used automotive paint, for a fraction of the cost.

If the OP insists on staying with the stained wood look, I would also go with the ThermaTru kit, as Jinman suggested.

As stated, the old finish must be removed. There is nothing you can put over the top of a finish, to make what is under it, adhere. If any part of it has peeled, the rest of it will probably peel too.

Good info...THANKS.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #17  
Just remember that Sherwin Williams is in the business of selling paint and stains. They would likely sell you something, anything, rather than tell you that you should go with the Therma-Tru product. If you look at the link I provided, the kit is $86, but if you buy only stain and topcoat, the cost is very reasonable. Remember a product that costs half and lasts only 1/3 as long is no bargain. Therma-Tru wants you to be happy with their doors. It's in their core business interest to ensure you have the highest quality stain and coatings. They have done all the experimenting for you and sell the very best that they have available so you don't have to learn the hard way.

I know. . . I know. . . I sound like I work for them. I do not. However, their installation instructions on my doors was not followed and I had to replace parts and redo the job like they said it should be done. The doors were not stained as they direct and I had to redo that too. Both Therma-Tru and I want you to get it right the first time.:D:thumbsup:
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Just remember that Sherwin Williams is in the business of selling paint and stains. They would likely sell you something, anything, rather than tell you that you should go with the Therma-Tru product. If you look at the link I provided, the kit is $86, but if you buy only stain and topcoat, the cost is very reasonable. Remember a product that costs half and lasts only 1/3 as long is no bargain. Therma-Tru wants you to be happy with their doors. It's in their core business interest to ensure you have the highest quality stain and coatings. They have done all the experimenting for you and sell the very best that they have available so you don't have to learn the hard way.

I know. . . I know. . . I sound like I work for them. I do not. However, their installation instructions on my doors was not followed and I had to replace parts and redo the job like they said it should be done. The doors were not stained as they direct and I had to redo that too. Both Therma-Tru and I want you to get it right the first time.:D:thumbsup:

Well stated, when one considers the labor and time involved in refinishing just about anything, it makes sense to spend enough time on the prep work, and pay enough for the materials involved that the project will last a decent amount of time. I stain my decks, one 12X16, one 12X24, with stain that costs $40 per gallon. Sure, I can buy a stain for $20 a gallon, but it will take a gallon and a half of that to cover the same area the $40 a gallon stain will cover, and when you consider the time spent powerwashing, scuff sanding, and staining the decks, why would anybody buy a stain that lasts half as long as a premium brand does. What a no brainer.

IMO, cheap paints and stains are a foolish way to waste your money.
 
   / Refinishing fiberglass entry door #19  
Also there are a number of materials to choose from for the manufacture of entry doors such as fiberglass, steel and wood. The most favorable of all these nowadays for door installation among the homeowners are the fiberglass doors on a budget design to save a good amount of money also in long term. Also they remain rust and rotting free.
 

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