Mowing thinking of buying a compact tractor
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moship
Veteran Member
Handy,
Here are some things to consider besides the general Brand Green vs Orange vs White vs
Given the implements you are considering I would look at what it takes to change from one to the other. This will be especially true if planning on using a front mounted snow blower compounded by the mid mower. Have the dealer actually demonstrate the removal replacement process if possible. Videos will always make it look easy.
In any case look at how easy it is to remove the FEL and hydraulic connections. (My Dad痴 BX 2200 does not use quick connects and is a real pain to remove because of it)
How difficult is it to install the front snow blower sub frame and what are the implications with the mid mounted mower.
3-pt hitch: Some have telescopic ends to make attachment easier or have optional quick hitches. 3-pt implements such as snow blowers or tillers can be difficult to install because of their weight.
Moving from one implement to another can be a chore on depending on the implement mix. Give this some thought before you purchase.
Also consider cost of maintenance. Filters and fluid can be considerable. It is not uncommon for a hydraulic filter to cost $70 alone and fluid to be $20 gallon. The materials alone can approach $200 for a smaller tractor (two air filters, oil filter, fuel filter(s), hydraulic filter, Hydrostatic filter, hydrualic fluid, differential lube,...)
Good luck and have fun with the purchase decision.
Here are some things to consider besides the general Brand Green vs Orange vs White vs
Given the implements you are considering I would look at what it takes to change from one to the other. This will be especially true if planning on using a front mounted snow blower compounded by the mid mower. Have the dealer actually demonstrate the removal replacement process if possible. Videos will always make it look easy.
In any case look at how easy it is to remove the FEL and hydraulic connections. (My Dad痴 BX 2200 does not use quick connects and is a real pain to remove because of it)
How difficult is it to install the front snow blower sub frame and what are the implications with the mid mounted mower.
3-pt hitch: Some have telescopic ends to make attachment easier or have optional quick hitches. 3-pt implements such as snow blowers or tillers can be difficult to install because of their weight.
Moving from one implement to another can be a chore on depending on the implement mix. Give this some thought before you purchase.
Also consider cost of maintenance. Filters and fluid can be considerable. It is not uncommon for a hydraulic filter to cost $70 alone and fluid to be $20 gallon. The materials alone can approach $200 for a smaller tractor (two air filters, oil filter, fuel filter(s), hydraulic filter, Hydrostatic filter, hydrualic fluid, differential lube,...)
Good luck and have fun with the purchase decision.
radioman
Super Member
well since this is in the kubota thread- a BX or B will fit the bill for you for all what you want. The next step would be playing around with the online build your kubota and your dreams to see if it what you want. Next after checking online, it wouldn't hurt to stop in your local kubota dealer to see what you like and try on a few for size.
Be sure you bring the measurements of garage door hieght of the lowest thing hanging down in up position. A 4 digit BX doesnt fold, but its lower then a 2 digit BX but it folds in a lower position then 4 digit does.
Be sure you bring the measurements of garage door hieght of the lowest thing hanging down in up position. A 4 digit BX doesnt fold, but its lower then a 2 digit BX but it folds in a lower position then 4 digit does.
SixHoeBob
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In a perfect scenario, the rear wheels of any tractor 2wd/4wd should be doing the majority of the pushing. The rear axle is designed heavier than the front axle. That is why it is called front axle assist. The force of the rear axle is transmitted through the axle housing, transmission, bell housing, engine block, loader sub-frame, loader, bucket, and finally the cutting edge. Any part not in line with the direction of force will be subject to flexing or bending forces. Thin castings at 90 deg. to the line of force are likely to fail. Next imagine the forces generated by carrying a bucket load of dirt across a field. CNH should have a recall, where they add sub frames to all the tractors with loaders that have been sold. Spend the engineering dollars on something useful, as opposed to graphics and deluxe cup holders.
Handy said he would like to have a loader on the tractor. Most people max out the lift capacity of the loader with dirt, and then travel as fast as they can without being thrown out of the seat.
Handy said he would like to have a loader on the tractor. Most people max out the lift capacity of the loader with dirt, and then travel as fast as they can without being thrown out of the seat.
Thank-You all for your advice called both case/ cub cadet and kubota and got prices now just seeing how much work I get that will determined what I get but so far leaning more to kubota
have used on back in high school and fell in love with it they both are with in like $ 200.00 of each other and kubota is 1 block closer the case to my place
but once again Thank-You all for your input
have used on back in high school and fell in love with it they both are with in like $ 200.00 of each other and kubota is 1 block closer the case to my place
but once again Thank-You all for your input
284 International
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Sixhoebob, I'm not disagreeing with you. It seems that those tractors have some issues with structural failure that may occur more frequently than with other brands. I would shy away from one were I in the market for a new machine. Irrespective of this forum, if I were buying new I'd buy a John Deere or Kubota, and probably the Kubota.
But the guy is replacing a single cylinder riding lawn mower and a shovel. Since he's substituting the tractor for things he'd otherwise be doing with a small lawn mower and hand tools, I don't think tractors with broken backs are in his immediate future, that's all.
I'm not trying to be a smart alec. But if he happened onto a great package deal on a TC30 I don't think he'd be buying trouble. Were he talking about doing heavy landscape work, earthmoving, or excavation, that may be different.
He likes the Kubota better, it sounds like, and the price is close enough not to matter. That's the one I think he should buy.
Handy, what models are you comparing? Did you look at the Cub Cadet as well? What's your take on the different features of the models and how those things compare?
But the guy is replacing a single cylinder riding lawn mower and a shovel. Since he's substituting the tractor for things he'd otherwise be doing with a small lawn mower and hand tools, I don't think tractors with broken backs are in his immediate future, that's all.
I'm not trying to be a smart alec. But if he happened onto a great package deal on a TC30 I don't think he'd be buying trouble. Were he talking about doing heavy landscape work, earthmoving, or excavation, that may be different.
He likes the Kubota better, it sounds like, and the price is close enough not to matter. That's the one I think he should buy.
Handy, what models are you comparing? Did you look at the Cub Cadet as well? What's your take on the different features of the models and how those things compare?
looking at the bx 23 from kubota
the case was a 24 hp one not sure of the model number on this one
from what I have herd they both are good tractors but the case is a stander transmission witch I kinda like but the controls are what I like the best they both have the joy stick for the loader and fount mount things
but what I like the best is where and how the mower deck mounts and clear once on the kubota
with the kubota you do not have to take the mower deck off to use the loader
where with the case you do
they are both shaft drive decks
they both are 4 wheel drive but love where the range gears are
and that both have the diff lock
here in the next few days going to test drive both out at there shops and go from there
what I like with kubota as wheel as I can get different grips but think I will go with what they call the bar witch is like the industrial grip
but for snow it will work a lot better then the turf tires.
case only offered me the field tire on there tractor
also going to get a cub cadet more for mowing in town
the case was a 24 hp one not sure of the model number on this one
from what I have herd they both are good tractors but the case is a stander transmission witch I kinda like but the controls are what I like the best they both have the joy stick for the loader and fount mount things
but what I like the best is where and how the mower deck mounts and clear once on the kubota
with the kubota you do not have to take the mower deck off to use the loader
where with the case you do
they are both shaft drive decks
they both are 4 wheel drive but love where the range gears are
and that both have the diff lock
here in the next few days going to test drive both out at there shops and go from there
what I like with kubota as wheel as I can get different grips but think I will go with what they call the bar witch is like the industrial grip
but for snow it will work a lot better then the turf tires.
case only offered me the field tire on there tractor
also going to get a cub cadet more for mowing in town
Don87
Elite Member
That topic has been discussed here at length also.
I personally use turf tires with 2 link ladder chains..............and would do it no other way for my property.(my driveway is on a hill, and is paved.)
Carl Bert
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I don't want to burst your bubble here, but I really think you are looking at the wrong equipment. First off you will never make any money trying to mow lawns with a BX, especially the size lawns you are doing. You need to look at a commercial zero turn mower. That's the only way you will be able to compete in price with the competition.
Second, a blower on a tractor also can not compete with a plow on a pickup. What a pickup can do in 15 minutes, would take 2 to3 times as long on a tractor/blower.
Now you have to consider transporting the equipment from one job to the next. As far as a pickup/plow, you finish and go. A tractor needs to be loaded on a trailer and chained down. It takes me a good half hour to do my B26. In that time the pickup already plowed 2 more driveways
The same with mowing. With a zero turn you drive it up on a landscapers trailer and go. No time wasted strapping it down.
A tractor/blower set up is great if you are doing a development where you can drive it from house to house, but if you need to transport it around town all day, you will get killed with wasted time loading and unloading.
Just my opinion, hope it helps with your decision.
Second, a blower on a tractor also can not compete with a plow on a pickup. What a pickup can do in 15 minutes, would take 2 to3 times as long on a tractor/blower.
Now you have to consider transporting the equipment from one job to the next. As far as a pickup/plow, you finish and go. A tractor needs to be loaded on a trailer and chained down. It takes me a good half hour to do my B26. In that time the pickup already plowed 2 more driveways
The same with mowing. With a zero turn you drive it up on a landscapers trailer and go. No time wasted strapping it down.
A tractor/blower set up is great if you are doing a development where you can drive it from house to house, but if you need to transport it around town all day, you will get killed with wasted time loading and unloading.
Just my opinion, hope it helps with your decision.