houstonscott
Elite Member
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Box Scraper Want to uproot scrub trees and vines
- Thread starter skiprt
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beppington
Elite Member
Similar experience. Most trees pull or push over with the root ball coming up. Saplings can be chained at ground level & pulled out, but the bigger the tree the higher up we (must) put the chain. Above about 7" or 8" in diameter, my tractor usually just can't get 'em, either by pulling or pushing. Occasionally one here & there breaks off near the ground, which is a pain. I've been digging the dirt from around those & cutting them off as low as possible with a chainsaw. I've actually pulled so many saplings & other trees since last June that I've now broken four 5/16" chain links ... from the back-&-forth bending some links get when you hook the hook on it one way one time & the opposite way the next time: Just a slight bend back-&-forth a bunch of times, & they finally snap.
I'd like to try an A-frame, to pull up, but not sure it's worth the extra.
It would be fairly simple to make something like that but unfortunately, that system will not work well on a tractor but only on a skidsteer. You must maintain sideway force as you move back and forth to saw the tree and I think that could only be done effectively with a skidsteer.
Shame you are not closer, I'd lend you the one I made. BTW, I'm using grade 70 chain and it's held up well so far.
IslandTractor
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That thing just saws off the tree at ground level. Many trash trees will simply regrow unless you mow frequently. I prefer the type of device that pulls the whole root/stump out and that type of device is much less expensive (or easier to build).
955Lincoln
Gold Member
How about the angle of the cutting blades? Just backing up would cause lots of side force. Harder to do going foward, maybe a sharp turn or locking up one rear brake.
beppington
Elite Member
That is cool! Yet another reason to buy a welder
For trees that get stuck in it, it would seem you could simply drop the 3PH & drive forward.
955Lincoln
Gold Member
A quick application of herbicide to the outer circumference of the stump should take care of that problem in most cases.
ducks13
Silver Member
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- Charlotte, NC
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Biker,
Do you have any pictures of that creek being made into a pond? I might be interested in doing it to my creek.
Do you have any pictures of that creek being made into a pond? I might be interested in doing it to my creek.
The future pond is at a weekend property. I'll try to remember to take some pics the next time I'm out there. One thing you want to consider first is the type of soil you have and how deep a good layer of clay is below the surface. Some people seem to think all you have to do to make a pond is dig a hole. While that may work in some instances, most times you will have to get down to clay and use that to line the entire bottom and sides of the pond so it will hold water.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
"Jimgerken; thanks for the pics of your grubber. I'm planning on making one similar to yours. It's always a help to see what others have come up with. Only difference I will turn the drawbar the other way so the flat is vertical. It will be stronger that way."
Bikerdib: Took me a minute to understand the drawbar comment, but it did dawn on me eventually what you were saying. It's been a while since I built this deal, and I did re-think my design just now based on your comment. But I am standing by the design as-built. Here's why -- When using it, the main action you perform is backing up to capture and extract the tree. If you were to back up until the tree was firmly engaged into the scissors like edge, then stop and lift, the tree would (does) tear out and stay standing. However that is not the way it is done. Instead, you keep backing up to tear the tree out of the ground. Once it is torn out, you lift and keep backing up to keep the clamping pressure on it as the last few roots tear. Then you can drive forward, possibly lowering it to the ground so the root drags on the ground, and maybe it falls out of the jaws, or you have to get off and pull it out. So you see the majority of the force is horizontal. That's why the drawbar is oriented as shown, horizontal.
Thanks for the question though...
Bikerdib: Took me a minute to understand the drawbar comment, but it did dawn on me eventually what you were saying. It's been a while since I built this deal, and I did re-think my design just now based on your comment. But I am standing by the design as-built. Here's why -- When using it, the main action you perform is backing up to capture and extract the tree. If you were to back up until the tree was firmly engaged into the scissors like edge, then stop and lift, the tree would (does) tear out and stay standing. However that is not the way it is done. Instead, you keep backing up to tear the tree out of the ground. Once it is torn out, you lift and keep backing up to keep the clamping pressure on it as the last few roots tear. Then you can drive forward, possibly lowering it to the ground so the root drags on the ground, and maybe it falls out of the jaws, or you have to get off and pull it out. So you see the majority of the force is horizontal. That's why the drawbar is oriented as shown, horizontal.
Thanks for the question though...
OK, I follow how you use yours now. I WAS thinking you backed up till you had the tree locked in then use mostly the lifting force to remove the tree. But as you describe it, you actually use backing up as the major force to remove the tree.
Thanks for clearing that up for me. :thumbsup:
Thanks for clearing that up for me. :thumbsup:
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OK, now I have another question for you guys. I have lots of what we here call choke vines. Not sure what type of vine they really are but they will wrap around a tree as they grow sending the vine up to the top of the tree. This way they get their leaves to the top of the tree for sunlight. The vines can get up to about 4" diameter at the base. The reason we call them choke vines is they will often cause the tree to die because they don't allow the tree trunk to grow outward since they are wrapped around and around the trunk. They will grow into a tangle of many vines between trees in undisturbed areas as well, sending vines up into the trees above.
I'm clearing out trees from an old creek bed where I intend to make a small pond. This area has been undisturbed for many years and has lots of the choke vine in there. I've been pulling down trees with my 3300 and a chain (I've got horse panel mounted to the back of the ROP in case of chain failure). Lots of the trees had the choke vine in them and that has caused headaches trying to get the trees cut up and loaded on my forks for transport to the burn pile. It's just something I'm having to deal with.
Finally to my question. I have a few areas where the vines are grown into a real tangle then up into the branches of the trees that I plan to leave standing. I'm talking areas about 20' by 20' of a real tangle of vines. If I try to use my FEL to push and pull the vines they just seem to move and give, never breaking down from the trees. I don't want to drive in too far in fear of damaging something on the tractor as I drive over the vines. I could go in with an axe and machete and cut the vines at the base but then how do I get them down out of the trees (plus at 55 years old, that sounds like too much work :laughing. I've seen property where someone had a dozer clear their land and there are vines hanging down from the trees everywhere. I know they will eventually rot and fall from the trees but I'd like to get them down instead of waiting on nature to remove them. Any ideas?
I'm clearing out trees from an old creek bed where I intend to make a small pond. This area has been undisturbed for many years and has lots of the choke vine in there. I've been pulling down trees with my 3300 and a chain (I've got horse panel mounted to the back of the ROP in case of chain failure). Lots of the trees had the choke vine in them and that has caused headaches trying to get the trees cut up and loaded on my forks for transport to the burn pile. It's just something I'm having to deal with.
Finally to my question. I have a few areas where the vines are grown into a real tangle then up into the branches of the trees that I plan to leave standing. I'm talking areas about 20' by 20' of a real tangle of vines. If I try to use my FEL to push and pull the vines they just seem to move and give, never breaking down from the trees. I don't want to drive in too far in fear of damaging something on the tractor as I drive over the vines. I could go in with an axe and machete and cut the vines at the base but then how do I get them down out of the trees (plus at 55 years old, that sounds like too much work :laughing
. I've seen property where someone had a dozer clear their land and there are vines hanging down from the trees everywhere. I know they will eventually rot and fall from the trees but I'd like to get them down instead of waiting on nature to remove them. Any ideas?beppington
Elite Member
I have similar clogs. I've been chaining & dragging many of them down. On others I've been using my Stihl pole saw to cut them off as high as possible, usually ~15' above ground, & leave 'em. I know that's not what you want to do, but I'm not sure there's a good, low labor way to get them down.
IslandTractor
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I also cut them off and leave them now. I used to grab them with the grapple and back up trying to pull them out of the tree but almost got nailed a couple of times when the vines ripped branches loose that then shot towards the tractor like and arrow shot from a bow. Those vines are strong and well attached even if they look like they are just draped over loosely. I just cut them and grapple out the roots now.
beppington
Elite Member
I actually pulled over a couple ~8" diameter OAK trees while trying to pull vines down :shocked:
Fortunately the trees were close to the fence line I'm replacing, so I preferred they were gone anyway ... but, be careful!
Yeah, I was worried about pulling down branches too while trying to pull the vines down with the tractor. I know from cutting up the trees I've pulled down with the vines growing on them that they hold tight. I've had to use looping shears and the chain saw to cut the vines as well as the tree as I cut up the tree for removal to the burn pile. Looks like I'll have to cut the vines at the base then use a pole saw to remove the vines as much as I can then let nature take it's course on rotting the rest. Oh well, I need the exercise anyway.
My idea is to wrap a chain around as many of the vines as possible and try to pull down what I can with the tractor from far away then do the manual thing on the rest. I was just hoping someone could give me an idea that would save some work. Like I said, there are areas that are too thick to even work your way through trying to walk. I'll just have to start on the outside and work inward.
My idea is to wrap a chain around as many of the vines as possible and try to pull down what I can with the tractor from far away then do the manual thing on the rest. I was just hoping someone could give me an idea that would save some work. Like I said, there are areas that are too thick to even work your way through trying to walk. I'll just have to start on the outside and work inward.
beppington
Elite Member
Yeah, I was worried about pulling down branches too while trying to pull the vines down with the tractor. I know from cutting up the trees I've pulled down with the vines growing on them that they hold tight. I've had to use looping shears and the chain saw to cut the vines as well as the tree as I cut up the tree for removal to the burn pile. Looks like I'll have to cut the vines at the base then use a pole saw to remove the vines as much as I can then let nature take it's course on rotting the rest. Oh well, I need the exercise anyway.
My idea is to wrap a chain around as many of the vines as possible and try to pull down what I can with the tractor from far away then do the manual thing on the rest. I was just hoping someone could give me an idea that would save some work. Like I said, there are areas that are too thick to even work your way through trying to walk. I'll just have to start on the outside and work inward.
That's the only way I know of, without potentialy harming your tractor. It is tedious.
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
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I just back a bush hog into areas thick with vines and then go back after walking areas have been created between trees and use a manual lopper to cut the vines that are too close to the trunk to get with the hog. I have two loppers, one is about 30 inches and ratchets so I use that on the thick vines at the base. The other is one on a pole that you can reach about five feet up and pull a line to cut the vine overhead. I don't like the job but it isn't that hard if you stage it and use the right tool for each situation.
