Finally Building my Backhoe

[NormL]

Are you building from any set of plans or are you planning your own? What size tractor are you going to mount it to?

I'm working from my own plans and adapting those to an older Craftsman GT 18 that came with the farm we bought a few years ago. It has a strong carriage and stout rear axle so I'm not concerned that it will be too delicate for the job. I wish I had started this sooner because I really need this machine yesterday! We have flood issues going on around here (Southern Manitoba) and I need to get swails and trenches dug and at my age using a spade is a pain, literally.

While I'm on here I should list some of the items I will need for my build. I'd like to locate hydraulic supplies such as cylinders and valves, locally if possible so that importing issues can be avoided. 2" bore should do and I have yet to determine the lengths I'll need but I believe 18" stroke for two of them and 14" or 16" for two more would be a good guess. Any way, time to go abuse myself with the spade for a while.

 

[dcyrilc]

Farmer, The bucket's looking great - Nice job!:thumbsup:

Norm, Welcome aboard. :welcome:

 

[Redneck in training]

I'm working from my own plans and adapting those to an older Craftsman GT 18 that came with the farm we bought a few years ago. It has a strong carriage and stout rear axle so I'm not concerned that it will be too delicate for the job. I wish I had started this sooner because I really need this machine yesterday! We have flood issues going on around here (Southern Manitoba) and I need to get swails and trenches dug and at my age using a spade is a pain, literally.

While I'm on here I should list some of the items I will need for my build. I'd like to locate hydraulic supplies such as cylinders and valves, locally if possible so that importing issues can be avoided. 2" bore should do and I have yet to determine the lengths I'll need but I believe 18" stroke for two of them and 14" or 16" for two more would be a good guess. Any way, time to go abuse myself with the spade for a while.

Have you decided on pins yet? I have home built BH I bought few years back. It works pretty well but I am shearing pins in various locations. I bought a bar of supposedly strong material so I will see how it will work for now. I would recommend to increase the pins size at least to 1.5". My are 1" but I am going to rebuilt all of them to 1.5" so they would take the abuse.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'm working from my own plans and adapting those to an older Craftsman GT 18 that came with the farm we bought a few years ago. It has a strong carriage and stout rear axle so I'm not concerned that it will be too delicate for the job. I wish I had started this sooner because I really need this machine yesterday! We have flood issues going on around here (Southern Manitoba) and I need to get swails and trenches dug and at my age using a spade is a pain, literally.

While I'm on here I should list some of the items I will need for my build. I'd like to locate hydraulic supplies such as cylinders and valves, locally if possible so that importing issues can be avoided. 2" bore should do and I have yet to determine the lengths I'll need but I believe 18" stroke for two of them and 14" or 16" for two more would be a good guess. Any way, time to go abuse myself with the spade for a while.

If you're buying new hydraulics it likely doesn't pencil out to build your own when you can get a Harbor Freight towable for $3000 US. If you start adding up the cost of cylinders, pumps, valves, and hoses you get into some big money very fast. Mine only makes sense because I got all the cylinders and valves through some connections for a very reasonable price. I'm still going to have to buy hoses, but I think I can get most of them from Surplus Center much cheaper than local prices. I actually have an Army Surplus store nearby that has a whole aisle of hydraulic hoses. Most of them are pretty short, though, or VERY large diameter (M1 Abrams tanks must have some very high flow hydraulic systems). But, if you find what you need it's cheap.

 

[NormL]

Redneck In Training: Thanks for the warning about pins. The build I'm gearing up for is going on the back of a garden tractor. The pins will mostly be similar in size to category one 3pth stock. For the pivot box I'm planning something unique. I'll surprise you with it when the build starts!

Which pins are you shearing most often and how large is your machine?

Iplayfarmer: Indeed, the hydraulics prices threaten to kill the project! My saving grace will have to be that I'm a scrounger and a proud cheapskate. I have a significant amount of the steel I will need (left behind by the previous owner) and hopefully a backdoor access to the welding shop next door to one of the bus companies I do charters with. I've seen stuff sticking out of his recycle bin that I think I could utilize.

For the hoses I'm planning something I have seen on big hoes. They run steel lines along rigid parts of the machine and use flexible hoses where the bending happens. For mine I think steel brake lines might serve. Your thoughts?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

My saving grace will have to be that I'm a scrounger and a proud cheapskate.

Ah... You're in good shapem, then.

For the hoses I'm planning something I have seen on big hoes. They run steel lines along rigid parts of the machine and use flexible hoses where the bending happens. For mine I think steel brake lines might serve. Your thoughts?

I've seen discussions about steel brake line, but never really paid much attention. It seems the consensus is that they won't handle the pressure. You might do some research before you bite the bullet on that one. Another thought... The major cost of a hose is the fittings. If you break a hose run up with steel line you double the number of fittings. Just look at it both ways before you commit.

 

[rcurrie]

Norml, where in southern Mb. are you? I'm around Ile Des Chenes. I am building a subframe backhoe as well. I get my pins and bearings from Princess Auto.

 

[Redneck in training]

Redneck In Training: Thanks for the warning about pins. The build I'm gearing up for is going on the back of a garden tractor. The pins will mostly be similar in size to category one 3pth stock. For the pivot box I'm planning something unique. I'll surprise you with it when the build starts!

Which pins are you shearing most often and how large is your machine?

Iplayfarmer: Indeed, the hydraulics prices threaten to kill the project! My saving grace will have to be that I'm a scrounger and a proud cheapskate. I have a significant amount of the steel I will need (left behind by the previous owner) and hopefully a backdoor access to the welding shop next door to one of the bus companies I do charters with. I've seen stuff sticking out of his recycle bin that I think I could utilize.

For the hoses I'm planning something I have seen on big hoes. They run steel lines along rigid parts of the machine and use flexible hoses where the bending happens. For mine I think steel brake lines might serve. Your thoughts?

I shear the boom pivot and the middle pin on the dipper.
Here is a video digging a ditch to my pond
YouTube - MVI 1768

 

[NormL]

If you break a hose run up with steel line you double the number of fittings. Just look at it both ways before you commit.

Thanks. I had not thought of that. However, since the lines I'll be using will be no more than 3/8th", maybe that will affect the cost. I'll check on that before I go one way or the other.

 

[NormL]

Norml, where in southern Mb. are you? I'm around Ile Des Chenes. I am building a subframe backhoe as well. I get my pins and bearings from Princess Auto.

Not too far from you, about 45min drive! I live a few miles from Starbuck. Once I get started we'll have to compare notes.

 

[NormL]

I shear the boom pivot and the middle pin on the dipper.
Here is a video digging a ditch to my pond
YouTube - MVI 1768

I watched the first couple of minutes of the video. That's a nice hoe and I don't understand why you are shearing your dipper pin. The pivot is another matter. That one should be stout. Hopefully the tougher rod stock you picked up will give you better service. Your machine is a little bigger than the one I want to build, I think. How long are the boom and dipper?

 

[NormL]

Iplayfarmer:
I hope I'm not using your thread too much before I start my own. I hope to know enough about the ins and outs of this site by then to manage stuff like posting pictures, etc. In the meantime I really appreciate the help and advice I'm getting from all of you.

 

[Redneck in training]

I think it was originally built from CAD digger plans. The problem was that it was easy to flip it over when the boom was extended sideways and in general it was difficult to move it around. Therefore I added two wheels on the back. I think I am breaking the dipper pin when I try to turn the hoe sideways and hit some obstruction. The nice thing is that the hoe can get to places no other machine could go. In example in a steep ravine. I paid 2000 for it and it already paid for itself few times over. It dug numerous tree holes, numerous stumps and about 2000 feet of ditch to increase watershed for my pond etc.
I plan on retiring about a year from now and when I do I will completely rebuild the machine. Beef up all pins and reduce sloppiness.
I am on a business trip now therefore I can't measure the dimensions but I am pretty sure it can dig at least 6 ft deep.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Iplayfarmer:
I hope I'm not using your thread too much before I start my own. I hope to know enough about the ins and outs of this site by then to manage stuff like posting pictures, etc. In the meantime I really appreciate the help and advice I'm getting from all of you.

No worries. Having the additional questions, answers, and insights helps my project. I'm glad to have you in on this thread.

 

[NormL]

rcurrie:
I forgot to ask you earlier: are you getting cylinders and valves at PA, too? That's probably where I will get mine unless a local farmer decides to sell me a set of "markers" for their scrap value. First I'll have to make sure they extend far enough. How far along are you on your build?

 

[mjncad]

For mine I think steel brake lines might serve. Your thoughts?

I wouldn't use brake line tubing. Check with a Parker Store or other reputable hydraulics supply house for the proper steel tubing and fittings to braze or crimp on.

 

[NormL]

I wouldn't use brake line tubing. Check with a Parker Store or other reputable hydraulics supply house for the proper steel tubing and fittings to braze or crimp on.

That makes two thumbs down on the brake line idea. I'm convinced. I don't know as there are any Parker Stores around here but we have Princess Auto. I will go and make myself a pest till they tell me what will work!! I know they can make up hoses to order. The whole idea of using solid lines is to keep the clutter that hoses can become down to a minimum. The FEL's on both my other tractors are a perfect example. Thanks for the help.

 

[NormL]

No worries. Having the additional questions, answers, and insights helps my project. I'm glad to have you in on this thread.

Thanks. I don't like to make a nuisance of myself if I can help it.

That said, I have some questions about the program you are using for drawing your plans. 1) How is it available? 2) How computer - savvy does one have to be to use it? 3) Does it do calculations such as cylinder specs?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks. I don't like to make a nuisance of myself if I can help it.

That said, I have some questions about the program you are using for drawing your plans. 1) How is it available? 2) How computer - savvy does one have to be to use it? 3) Does it do calculations such as cylinder specs?

It's Google Sketchup. It's free... Google SketchUp

To me it's more intuitive than CAD programs that I have tried. The nice thing about sketchup is that there is a lot of free help on youtube and other places on the web... including TBN. I haven't tried calculations. It may be built into the program or it may be a part of some of the plugins that are available for Sketchup.

It's worth a try. It's free, so you're not out much if you end up not liking it.

 

[mjncad]

The whole idea of using solid lines is to keep the clutter that hoses can become down to a minimum. The FEL's on both my other tractors are a perfect example. Thanks for the help.

You're welcome, and the other nice thing about hardlines is they take up less space, which is related to your desire to reduce hose clutter.