48" Mower Deck problem

[rayikeo2]

If all else fails you might want to contact John Deere Parts, show them the picture and see if there is any way they can get a part from the deck manfacture. Either the complete bracket or the bolt spindle and weld it in. I would think they would be embarrassed about the part failing in such a short time and try to accomadate you.

 

[pennwalk]

Just because JD designed it that way doesn't mean you can't improve it. It looks to me as if cost was a factor in that assembly. You could put together something that will work at least as well and be replacable too.

Chris

 

[mullins87]

First off, you don't HAVE to use JD parts. Go to your local parts store that has a good selection of idler pulleys. Find one that matches or is close to the original. Once you have that, then pick up an appropriate grade 8 bolt that will fit the hole in that bracket. You may have to use some washers or jam nuts to position the pulley at the proper height. If it fails again, it will be easily replaceable.

 

[jinman]

The idler pulley's arbor hole is 0.66". JD does not sell that shoulder bolt separate from the deck. I think you need to research finding a shoulder bolt or you could put a bushing on a smaller diameter bolt. The JD idlers are common items on eBay. I just bought a half dozen (yes, that many) to have as spares because as soon as they start to howl, I replace them. My deck has a little over 100 hours on it and I have replaced both small idlers twice and the large idler once. If you don't constantly stay on top of this deck, it will end up like yours over and over. You have my sympathy. We were sold a product that is very high maintenance. Idlers and spindles are the most replaced item on the 100 series of mowers. You can also expect to replace the carb float chamber needle valve on the B&S engine also. If your engine starts and then dies about 20 seconds later and won't restart. Take it to your dealer and tell him you need the new brass needle valve. All JD dealer's shops know about this and have been given info on how to fix it.

 

[mjncad]

Stang:

Welcome to TBN and the world of crap BBM (Big Box Mart) grade mowers regardless of manufacturer.

As Jinman says, these decks are high maintenance items for one reason or another. Also don't be surprised if it eats belts and electric clutches. I'm on my third belt, and my electric clutch and actuating switch puked at 56-hours. My L(emon)-130 has about 75-hours on it.

Also if yours has the Tuff-Torq (oxymoron) K46 hydrostatic tranny; these are known to be problematic too. So far mine hasn't given me trouble; but it's just a matter of time.

 

[stang]

@Jinman -The whole reason these pulleys fail is because of the cheap bearings. I am going to drill the welds out and try replacing with a high quality NTN piece. Bearings are cheap, and there is no excuse for JD to maufacture a part that has such a high rate of replacement. If I find a bearing that works, I'll post up a part #.

@mjncad - Thanks for the Welcome, and the head's up on the nightmare I am about to face with this POS mower. This is pretty sad really. When I was growing up I used to respect JD equipment as being the best there was. This is the reason I purchased this unit, for the quality, and dependability. So much for that eh ?? As of right now it has cost me $58/hr to operate this mower, not counting the fuel and parts already required.

So I used the other stud as a template and created a CAD drawing. I made a few minor changes, but not much that can be done for improvement. My brother-in-law is going to make me a new part tomorrow, and I will weld it onto the bracket. We'll see how long that last's.

Stang

 

[jinman]

@Jinman -The whole reason these pulleys fail is because of the cheap bearings.
Stang

I think cheap bearings may be a part of the problem, but I've seen some pretty cheap bearings on other mowers that lasted much longer. I think shock mounting of that first small idler is also a big deal. Everytime you engage the clutch, it just slams that first small idler since it is the first thing on the deck and has no shock mounting. If I were going as far as you are, I'd manage to create a flexmount where I could put on a heavy spring to tension that first idler. Then, when the clutch is energized, it will absorb that initial shock until the blades get up to speed and spinning. Also, be sure to keep those spindles greased. JD recommends every 25 hours, but I think 8 to 10 is much more realistic. If you have not seen it, check out this thread.

 

[SandburRanch]

I didn't read the manual so I probably should get 20 lashes for not greasing spindles with sealed bearings every 25 hours. But I did change the bearings this winter and found one lower sealed bearing with dried caked grease that looked, after removing the seal, like the grease may have been 30 years old.

The housing contained some thin black grease but not nearly full. Just calculating in my retarded brain I figure if I pumped 3 squirts every 25 hours the housing cavity might be full after 6 or 7 years. Them there JD folks have sure got this old man confused.

What really may have happened in manufacture is the computerized robot drilled holes in the wrong part and JD decided one of those cheep drive in zerks would be the cheepist way to plug the hole.:laughing:

 

[mjncad]

Please see interspersed comments.

@Jinman -Bearings are cheap, and there is no excuse for JD to maufacture a part that has such a high rate of replacement.

Sure there is a good bean counter excuse...selling replacement parts makes mo' money for Deere. That's what the parts guy told me about the crap electric clutches.

@mjncad - Thanks for the Welcome, and the head's up on the nightmare I am about to face with this POS mower. This is pretty sad really. When I was growing up I used to respect JD equipment as being the best there was. This is the reason I purchased this unit, for the quality, and dependability. So much for that eh ?? As of right now it has cost me $58/hr to operate this mower, not counting the fuel and parts already required.

The problem occurred when Deere decided to enter the low end market to gain market share. Prior to putting the Deere name on the hood, they sold cheap Saber lawn tractors with a different shade of green.

Had Deere stayed solely with selling lawn and garden tractors through their dealer network, I'd bet the lowest cost unit would be today's X300 and the BBM rigs would be other brands.

The trouble in my opinion is that people who buy these things at Despot & Doh's (Home Depot & Lowe's) think they're getting a real Deere quality rig; when in reality they're getting a mediocre piece of metal. Whether this eventually bites Deere in the butt or not is unknown to me.

Stang

 

[stang]

** UPDATE **

Back up and running guys. Machined a new spindle and welded it onto the bracket. Installed a new idler and all worked very well after a 2 hour mowing. Well, except for the tension idler that is now howling like a banshee. I have ordered several replacement parts so I am ready for the next failure.

Thanks for all the advice and information !!!

Cheers .....

Stang