YM 1401D Clutch issue

[psient]

Hello:

I am putting my 1401D back into service. So far I've cleaned it up, given the battery a charge, looked at the fluids and electrical wiring. Today I'll replace the oil and fill the front axle with gear fluid. My first question is: What type of gear oil does the front axle require?

I've also planned on replacing the clutch components (friction and pressure plates, throughout bearing, etc.). My wife is the one who used to drive it and she stopped because the tractor didn't seem to pull under load the way it should. It ran fine with no load but seemed to loose force when dragging something. She had the clutch redone prior to this but I'm not aware of the professionalism of the outfit (HOMESTEAD TRACTOR in Southern California). I haven't driven it yet so maybe this is premature. My wife is no slouch and I trust her ability to discriminate what is normal and what is not with this tractor. I've ordered the parts from HOYE but can always return them.

My second question is: I understand that the return spring can cause slippage-type problems in the clutch components. You can see it by unbolting the steering box

yes? IN light of the fact that she replaced the clutch could this be the problem? Would it drive normal under no-load

and not hold tight under load?

Third: I called Hoye and asked them about this issue. The guy I talked to said there is a splined coupler that ties the main shaft with the transmission shaft. IF the splines wear it can produce the symptoms I described to him. Anyone

run across this issue?

I cannot purchase the splined coupler as no one has it available (I called LMTC and they don't list it in their catalog).

thanks in advance.

Jon

 

[psient]

Hi:

I drove it today and it seems as if the clutch is not engaging completely. That is, with the clutch fully depressed on a slight incline, I couldn't get it into second without some grinding. Could this be a linkage adjustment issue?

I've uploaded pix of the current linkage adjustment.

One of the clutch pedal position with no pressure and one with the clutch pedal depressed just to the point of
resistance from the throwout bearing.
Number three is a photo of the current linkage adjustment; the nut is at the extreme end of its travel.

As you can see from a comparison of the two pix showing the pedal position the clutch doesn't engage until the very end of the pedal travel.

Is this normal?

Thanks Jon

 

[Car Doc]

Does the clutch pedal come back all the way easily or does it hang up and not return w/o pulling it back by hand?

If it does hang try pulling it back and see if that makes it go better.

I highly doubt the input splines or coupler are stripped it wouldn't motivate at all.

Your trany is not a syncro it will grind when on the move trying to shift it fwtw. I think the clutch needs to be tightened up there is usually only an inch of pedal travel needed its just enough so as the TO brg is not turning constantly or it will wear out.

 

[284 International]

The front axle is just 90 weight gear oil. I run 75W-90 in my 1401D, I think.

There may be a grease fitting on the side where you can lube the sliding components of your clutch. That fixed a B6000 that was exhibiting the same symptoms. Adjust your linkage, too.

Where are you in So Cal?

 

[psient]

The front axle is just 90 weight gear oil. I run 75W-90 in my 1401D, I think.

There may be a grease fitting on the side where you can lube the sliding components of your clutch. That fixed a B6000 that was exhibiting the same symptoms. Adjust your linkage, too.

Where are you in So Cal?

Thanks.

I'm in Riverside near Van Buren and the 91.

Jon

 

[psient]

Does the clutch pedal come back all the way easily or does it hang up and not return w/o pulling it back by hand?

If it does hang try pulling it back and see if that makes it go better.

I highly doubt the input splines or coupler are stripped it wouldn't motivate at all.

Your trany is not a syncro it will grind when on the move trying to shift it fwtw. I think the clutch needs to be tightened up there is usually only an inch of pedal travel needed its just enough so as the TO brg is not turning constantly or it will wear out.

Hi:

Thanks for the reply. I doesn't hang up. I figured it wasn't a syncro. When I was playing around with it this morning I shifted while the tractor was stationary. That's what made me think that there was just enough pressure remaining on the TO brg to make the tranny engaged slightly; thus there was a wee bit 'o grinding. The gear change wasn't hard but there was movement in the shaft when I tried to change-up. What's weird is it only did it on the incline. I tried it again on the level and there wasn't an issue.

Remember that in my post I mentioned my wife had just had the clutch replaced when she took it out of service.

Jon

 

[Car Doc]

Welcome!

Yeah I read that where you or she had the clutch replaced but its after all that we are trying to find the sweet spot in the operation of it.

That and they may or may not have completed it to perfection like we would have done and a simple adjustment may be all she needs to purr again.

I hope we are of help I think it needs tightened up a bit take some slack out see how it acts let us know! :thumbsup:

With all that said most of the time I cant even get my Yanmar tractor in gear w/o letting the clutch out a little and getting the gears just right and I always grind some so its not un-common to them imo.