Damifino
Gold Member
Yes that is what I was saying, didn't realize you had the elbow back in solenoid, yes all you need to as you indicted above, also when removing the copper supply from nut, make sure you have a least 1/2" copper past ferrule.
Plumbing Question - Dishwasher Change Out
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deere5105
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The ferrule slid back 1/2" on the supply line, place supply line into elbow and let nut pull ferrule back against elbow? That was how I did it initially.
Damifino
Gold Member
Did you wrap teflon around threads and ferrule, photo didn't show any signs of it, this will seal any slight imperfections.
SandburRanch
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A few common mistakes made with a compression fittings. 1) The tubing has sometimes come from a roll and that portion inserted into the fitting isn't round. 2) The tubing is inserted into the fitting but unknowingly slides back out some as the nut is being tightened. 3) The nut is most often incorrectly tightened. After the nut has been run up and all slack has been taken out with the feel of the fingers or light torque of the wrench, the nut is to be tightened one (1) revolution. For those instances that the wrench can't be rotated a full turn (like under a dish washer) count 6 hexes. On days I can't count to 6 I mark a flat with a felt pen for reference.:laughing:
Now let me give you an idea how to do that under the washer compression fitting or any other difficult location.
Take the L fitting out and make up the compression fitting in a more relaxed atmosphere (even on your workbench in some instances). Now re-install the L fitting and then the compression connection that has already been made up. Since it has been made once just a little past finger tight will do the trick.
Use no tef tape or mucky puck of any kind on a ferrule compression fitting.
Now let me give you an idea how to do that under the washer compression fitting or any other difficult location.
Take the L fitting out and make up the compression fitting in a more relaxed atmosphere (even on your workbench in some instances). Now re-install the L fitting and then the compression connection that has already been made up. Since it has been made once just a little past finger tight will do the trick.
Use no tef tape or mucky puck of any kind on a ferrule compression fitting.
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deere5105
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No. Did not put any Teflon on supply side. Only on fitting going into dishwasher. Will break it down tomorrow and try your recommendation. Leak is so slow right now you can't even feel any water on tile floor.
Damifino
Gold Member
Once the 5/8" nut is tightned, the ferrule is compressed onto copper, it is possible for the copper to slide out until ferrule is compressed enough to grab copper, why I said to make sure you have at least 1/2" past ferrule.
To repair a situation if it slid back flush with or close to ferrule would be to cut off as close to ferrule and obtain a new 1/4" id ferrule and use same 5/8" nut
Damifino
Gold Member
Just keep the cover off until your sure you have it stopped.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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deere5105
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Louhasaboat
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I would cut it back and add a quick shut-off valve (gator has one that works fast). This will enable close in control of feed. Then attach a flex line (ss) and the fitting to the DW. I used this method for both my DW and Refer.
Chilly807
Elite Member
The ferrule seals in two places, one is the tapered portion that goes into the L-fitting, the other is against the copper tube where it gets squeezed down when you tighten the nut. It has no choice but to compress, it has no where to go. If it's leaking along the tube, no amount of tape or paste is going to seal that. An axial scratch will leak if the copper tube or brass ferrule can't deform enough to fill the scratch.
If the ferrule isn't tight on the tubing when you remove it to check, there's a problem with either the ferrule or the tubing. Once you tighten it the first time, it's there for good, or should be.
I hand tighten the nut, then force the tube into the fitting as far as it will go, then tighten the nut while holding the tube in place so it can't spring back.
Standard compression fittings aren't great quality stuff these days, you may have a bad one. If you have enough slack left and don't want to use a SS flex hose, I'd recommend going to a shop that sells quality fittings, and ask for a Parker or Swage-Lok fitting to replace the compression fitting you have now. A hydraulic shop should have access to these.
They're meant to seal several thousand psi, domestic water pressure is no challenge to them. The two piece ferrule is better quality, and the price will reflect that. Ask the counter sales guy to take it apart in front of you and show you how it's supposed to be assembled, it's easy to mix up the pieces.
Sean
If the ferrule isn't tight on the tubing when you remove it to check, there's a problem with either the ferrule or the tubing. Once you tighten it the first time, it's there for good, or should be.
I hand tighten the nut, then force the tube into the fitting as far as it will go, then tighten the nut while holding the tube in place so it can't spring back.
Standard compression fittings aren't great quality stuff these days, you may have a bad one. If you have enough slack left and don't want to use a SS flex hose, I'd recommend going to a shop that sells quality fittings, and ask for a Parker or Swage-Lok fitting to replace the compression fitting you have now. A hydraulic shop should have access to these.
They're meant to seal several thousand psi, domestic water pressure is no challenge to them. The two piece ferrule is better quality, and the price will reflect that. Ask the counter sales guy to take it apart in front of you and show you how it's supposed to be assembled, it's easy to mix up the pieces.
Sean
