Plumbing Question - Dishwasher Change Out

[Toyboy]

I get nervous about a packaged line for dishwashers, especially since you can't see them once installed. I had mine replaced w/PEX tubing, same as the house is plumbed with.

 

[crbr]

I get nervous about a packaged line for dishwashers, especially since you can't see them once installed. I had mine replaced w/PEX tubing, same as the house is plumbed with.

I am very pleased with the Pex and the associated installation features. A much easier install than copper. Around here, a lot of new home construction is using Pex.

 

[deere5105]

Dishwasher change out;

Make sure your divorce from the first one is completely finalized in writing before the first one finds out about the second one.:thumbsup:

Funny. I made a joke about her being the dishwasher during all of this. Truthfully, not replacing the dishwasher may have led to the dishwasher leaving!!

 

[deere5105]

The first fitting shown is not a solder connector. It is compression. I suspect that what looks like solder is just discoloration from a slow leak.

I agree that a flexible, preferably stainless braided, line is better.

In most installations, there is no need to cut the existing copper line. Just follow it back to the shut off valve and replace the whole thing with a flex line labeled for compression to compression fittings. The flex line compression fitting is a whole different beast than the copper one and it uses either an o-ring or a rubber "cone" , depending on design and who makes it. But, it fits on tyhe existing male part of the fitting and is pretty good against leaking.

I may look into the flexible line. I will have to see how the copper is made up under the sink. When putting this together, I used a small tubing cutter to cut the copper and checked for burrs. It seemed to be smooth. I followed the instructions given regarding sliding the nut then the ferrel on the copper then pushing it in to the stop in the other end. I then slid ferrel and nut down and tightened it up. I have tried to tighten it more over the past several hours. I believe it is tight enough. I saw one comment about overtightening. Is that possible and can cause to leak? Is this type connection suitable for taking loose and reassembling or is it a throw away and replace? I had trouble trying to the get the copper to seal off on the feed to the ice maker years ago and wound up with a flexible clear rubber hose of some type. Don't recall the material type. It worked great and so far has been trouble free. In past experiences, I haven't had good luck working with the copper. Reading the reply about having to replace copper due to pin hole leaks is concerning. Most of my copper water lines are under the slab in the foundation. Hope to not have those problems.

I believe I have gotten more and quicker replies to this problem than the tractor related questions in the past. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[dcyrilc]

One thing to keep in mind is that there are at least two different types of compression fittings. When I redid mine, I shortened the origional copper line before installing the flex line. HD/Lowes sold me one which turned out to be for plastic line and contained an insert. I really had issues keeping it from leaking using it on the copper. Reading the paper included with the fitting later in the evening, I found that it was for plastic only. Went back and got the proper fitting for copper and no more issue.

The reason I shortened and changed mine was to tap into it for water for the new fridge. Another issue I found later that night was that the dishwasher uses hot water.:ashamed: I had to go back a third time and redo everything to get cold water for the fridge. Some days, the brain just doesn't work right.:laughing::laughing:

 

[Chilly807]

When you use a tube cutter to cut copper line that is destined to be used with a compression fitting (what you have), you have to be careful to cut slowly. Too much pressure and the rollers of the tube cutter will deform the soft copper tube and the ferrule won't seat properly.

The pre-made dishwasher connectors are the cat's pajamas for renos and new installs. They let you slide the dish-witch out to work on it if you have to, without getting jammed up under the dam* thing trying to tighten the fitting.

I really like the ride-on dishwashers, they're more fun but can be temperamental and hellishly expensive at times

If it were me, I'd replace the copper tube with a flex hose leading from an isolation valve just in case.

Sean

 

[gunnyad]

I know this is not a plumbing website, but so far there has not been much I can think of that hasn't been discussed and usually resolved. I recently had a several year old dishwasher go out. I bought a new one and began to change it out. Attached are a couple of pictures to help explain the question. The copper water supply line had what appeared to be a fitting that was soldered on. This wouldn't work with making the water supply connection to the new unit. I have little to no plumbing background so I went to parts house to see what was available. The second picture is what was recommended. I put this fitting on after first cutting the old one out of the copper line. I got everything put back together and unit works great. I noticed that I now have a very small leak at the new fitting. You can see the water at the edge of the nut and copper line. This is not a bad leak, but is leaking some.

The question is, what are the options for correcting the leak? Do I need to replace the fitting and try again? Is there something I can put on the connection to seal it off? Pretty tight quarters working on it under the unit. My concern is if the new fitting leaks what are the chances a second would solve the problem. Any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.

Try some cauking on around the ring or washer inside the nut and on the nut threads, old style caulking had thickness to it some new style seems to runny.

 

[Damifino]

Remove the compression nut, make sure the copper is past the ferrule and bottoming out in elbow fitting.

If that is golden, reinstall elbow back into dw solenoid, then insert copper line into same, with the 5/8" nut slid back a few inches, wrap some teflon about 3 rounds clockwise as your facing the inlet, covering threads and brass ferrule, reinstall nut and take care not to cross thread.

Snug up tight and turn water back on, leave cover off and check for drips, if any snug another turn and repeat.

If none of above works, take 2 aspirin, toss into dishwasher and IM me in the morning

 

[ray66v]

I get nervous about a packaged line for dishwashers, especially since you can't see them once installed.

Exactly.

People don't usually remember to replace the hoses on their washing machine, and they're not generally out of sight.

Put a hose under a dishwasher where you forget about it, and say the dishwasher accidentally lasts a long time. Chlorinated hot water can turn it into a time bomb, set to blow when your on vacation.

 

[deere5105]

Remove the compression nut, make sure the copper is past the ferrule and bottoming out in elbow fitting.

If that is golden, reinstall elbow back into dw solenoid, then insert copper line into same, with the 5/8" nut slid back a few inches, wrap some teflon about 3 rounds clockwise as your facing the inlet, covering threads and brass ferrule, reinstall nut and take care not to cross thread.

Snug up tight and turn water back on, leave cover off and check for drips, if any snug another turn and repeat.

If none of above works, take 2 aspirin, toss into dishwasher and IM me in the morning

I have the fitting tight in bottom of dishwasher with Teflon tape. Had to get pretty tight on it to get it in line with the copper so all would go together correctly. I hate to take it back out unless absolutely necessary.

To make sure I get your recommendation straight, back the 5/8" nut off and slide back on copper. Check ferrel and place it into the elbow and tape it and the threads. Slide copper in until it bottoms in elbow and retighten 5/8" nut. That sound about like what you recommended?