Driving A New Well

bp fick · Jun 1, 2011

I've put this off for over a year, so today was the day to start.

I'm pounding it down, bit by bit. I'm down about 14' feet so far. I already hit some water. I intend to drive it down 20-23 feet and I will be using a jet pump I got off Craigs last year. I really want to stop using our deep, submersible well for irrigation of the gardens.

I'll keep you posted as to how this goes.

bp fick · Jun 1, 2011

Couldn't find a widow maker to rent at our one and only rental yard. Oh well. My neighbor looked through his junk iron and we found an axle shaft and an old gear that has to weigh 40 pounds. Welded the axle to the gear. Slide the axle down the well pipe. Pick up the gear and let it slam down.

It's working better than anything I've ever use before. Thanks to my neighbor, Tom. :thumbsup:

foggy1111 · Jun 1, 2011

Good luck Fick. I drove a sandpoint well last summer (see posts) and it was one of the most satifying accomplishments for our property. I still need to bury the electric line for our pump....but we have great water. I rented an electric Jack Hammer to drive the pipe. (worked slicker than goat grease)

I look forward to seeing your results. :thumbsup:

Chilly807 · Jun 1, 2011

I'm curious as to what happens if it encounters a rock? I'm not saying it's not practical, since it obviously works, but what do you do if it refuses to go deeper? Pull out and try another spot?

I'd like to try this here, but we have stony ground (nothing too big though, no boulders) and a layer of gravel after the clay runs out.

Sean

bikerdib · Jun 1, 2011

Can you explain this procedure? Do you have a section of screen with a point on it? I remember seeing a screen with a point on it a very long time ago and never knew what the point was on the screen for. Unfortunately it wouldn't work in my area, you have to go down about 50 to 80 feet before encountering any water at all and then it would be a pretty limited supply I'm sure.

grsthegreat · Jun 1, 2011

yeiks, id like to do that here, but our water is down about 700 feet

MNBobcat · Jun 2, 2011

This is a great resource with instructional videos on drilling your own well.

bp fick · Jun 2, 2011

Driving a well, (washing in a well) is particularly suited for sandy areas, where the water table is 20 feet down. These are known as "Cottage Wells" for that reason. This describes our area. Sandy gravel all the way to the water table.

This is considered "surface water" as it is above the hard pan or clay located, I would guess, at 40 feet or so.

I have driven through these layers, in the past, all the way to 90 feet, but I do not recommend it. These wells typically use a simple jet pump which only lifts water from 25-28 feet anyhow.

foggy1111 · Jun 2, 2011

bikerdib said:
Can you explain this procedure? Do you have a section of screen with a point on it? I remember seeing a screen with a point on it a very long time ago and never knew what the point was on the screen for. Unfortunately it wouldn't work in my area, you have to go down about 50 to 80 feet before encountering any water at all and then it would be a pretty limited supply I'm sure.

Do a search on "driving a new well". I posted with pictures last summer on how I drove my well....and there is lots of info available on wells via google too.

These sand point wells are shallow wells (under 25 feet deep) so you need to have a high water table to use this method. Deep wells are a whole nother story.

Fick.....I Just saw your response after I was typing mine. You wisconsin guys sure get up early. :0

bp fick · Jun 2, 2011

A driving well point, pictured, has a hard point, and the body of the point, is perforated and has a stainless steel screen. I am driving a 1 1/4" diameter point. The point cost about $80. The pipe is standard galvanized steel pipe. It is easier to drive 4' sections of the threaded pipe.

Local hardware stores will cut and thread the pipe, to size, for $1 a threading.
The pipe is very expensive at almost $2 a foot, at local hardware prices.

What is really expensive is the "driving couplings". These are hardened and will take the shock of being pounded on without becoming damaged. Mine cost $10 each.

You drive down a section, thread on another section of pipe and pound again.