Firewood Questions

   / Firewood Questions #21  
There is more need (science ? ) for seasoning firewood in the north where the flame is used for heat, than in the south where it is for looks. ;)
Anyone going to a lot of work to make firewood and not getting all the BTU's out of it doesn't make good sense unless the exercise is the main benefit.
But me, I'm looking for all the energy out of the wood that I can get, and don't want to use it up just turning water into steam. :)
 
   / Firewood Questions #22  
There is more need (science ? ) for seasoning firewood in the north where the flame is used for heat, than in the south where it is for looks. ;)
Anyone going to a lot of work to make firewood and not getting all the BTU's out of it doesn't make good sense unless the exercise is the main benefit.
But me, I'm looking for all the energy out of the wood that I can get, and don't want to use it up just turning water into steam. :)

NC may be considered as being in the "South" but I am with YOU on the need heat, not steam, and not creosote front.

But let's assume someone just wants a pretty fire...improperly dried wood is hard to burn, smokes way too much, and it not nearly as nice an experience as burning dry wood.
 
   / Firewood Questions #23  
Holy Cow!

I had no idea there was so much science to firewood.

We have a little firepit off the back porch where we intend to burn a few logs now and then.
Plus, we have an indoor fireplace, but we haven't decided if we'll burn wood, or use gas with some fake logs.

But, most of the wood will go to my daughter. She has a house with a fireplace that she uses to supplement her furnace.

Thanks y'all.
Mule

If it is literally a "fireplace" it is very doubtful she is actually supplementing her furnace, since a fireplace fire is notorious for providing radiant heat in that one room, while sucking all the warm air out of the house and up the chimney. But a truly good wood burning appliance is a controlled air device, and will do a much better job of limiting the wasted heat up the chimney.

So far as I know, the very best you can do is to either have an appliance outdoors which never sucks air out of your house, or the have an indoor appliance, EPA rated, controlled air, with fresh air makeup from the outside directly to the appliance air inlet.
 
   / Firewood Questions #24  
I bought a woodstove insert this last winter. Best money i ever spent. I can heat pretty much my entire 2500sqft with it on the midler to cold days and the really cold days here in SC will take some supplemental heat from the far side heatpump but the near side of the house will stay 65+ degrees never needing the HP.

I stack in a covered tinroof shed i built for that purpose, open air sides. Yes my fire is for heat and i do live in the south!
 
   / Firewood Questions #25  
One of the things that most influences seasoning time (besides the type of wood you are drying) is the cut length. The shorter the lengths the faster they dry.

I like cutting wood 18" to 21" long because it stacks so much nicer. On the other hand 16" to 18" lengths will split easier and dry faster. But the shorter lengths don't stack near as well.

I stack my wood on the top of a hill in the back of our property to expose it to the most sun and wind for seasoning. I make long stacks across the hill spaced about 18" between stacks. I use as much of the "ugly" wood (knots, branches, Y's, etc) as I can and I like to stack the piles high they can become lop-sided and tippy. To prevent them from falling over and knocking down the next stack like dominoes I have learned to use 12' 2 x 4's between the stacks to brace them. To do this stack your piles approximately 2/3 the height you will stack to and lay the 2 x 4's across the stacks diagonally about every 8 to 10'. Now take some 4" decking screws and run a screw through the 2 x 4 into the wood in each stack. This will brace your stacks and make them very steady even if you stack very high. You can bypass the screws if you want and still gain much of the advantage of placing the 2 x 4's across your stacks.

I know some guys make beautiful stacks that need no bracing, but I stack to get the job done as quickly as possible since I'm going to burn it later anyhow. For that reason bracing as I described above really helps. Particularly when stacking on soft ground where settling is a factor.

JN
 
   / Firewood Questions #26  
1. I leave my wood uncovered
2. The best exposure to wind and sun on my property is about 3/4 mile from the house, that's where I season the wood.
3. Coast Live Oak seems best with at least two full summers, I'm going to season it for three or more. Doug Fir seems OK with less time.

I'm trying out some Holz Hausens right now made from live oak. I like the way they look compared to regular stacking, seems more organic and flows with the landscape. One nice thing about the Holtz is that they are well suited for crotch pieces, short pieces and oddballs.
IMG_1729.jpg
 
   / Firewood Questions #27  
1. I leave my wood uncovered
2. The best exposure to wind and sun on my property is about 3/4 mile from the house, that's where I season the wood.
3. Coast Live Oak seems best with at least two full summers, I'm going to season it for three or more. Doug Fir seems OK with less time.

I'm trying out some Holz Hausens right now made from live oak. I like the way they look compared to regular stacking, seems more organic and flows with the landscape. One nice thing about the Holtz is that they are well suited for crotch pieces, short pieces and oddballs.
IMG_1729.jpg

That has the makings of a great photograph. I wish there was more panorama. The sun is much better at this angle than if you shot at noon. A couple of these wood mounds,(which I have had little success with for drying wood thoroughly but never had the placement you have) and maybe 50-100 foot step back , with the same time of day and I betcha you'd have quite the picture. Beautiful place for a home.
 
   / Firewood Questions #28  
a things i have read:
better to cut live trees with the leaves still green and leave it whole till the leaves die. This is supposed to draw the sap out, Then before the water starts soaking in cut, split and cover.
I heat with just a fireplace the "regular" heat has been shut off for the last 5 years. I wish I could afford a stove but i cannot.
 
   / Firewood Questions #29  
Agreed that it is a nice photo, a few Holz Hausens would make some nice hardscape for the homestead. Just a few grazing sheep for contrast.
Q: How much time does it take to build Holz Hausens , vs dumping a front loader full of of wood in a pile, and covering with an old piece of roof tin?
 
   / Firewood Questions #30  
That has the makings of a great photograph. I wish there was more panorama. The sun is much better at this angle than if you shot at noon. A couple of these wood mounds,(which I have had little success with for drying wood thoroughly but never had the placement you have) and maybe 50-100 foot step back , with the same time of day and I betcha you'd have quite the picture. Beautiful place for a home.


Actually there are two more Holz Hausens now about 100yards beyond this one. A few days ago there was similar lighting with two new HH in the background and fog had filled most of the valley below, but of course I had left my camera behind.
 

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