correcting bent trailer tongue

[2manyrocks]

There's a major bend in the main 2x3 channel at point C. Whatever bent it, also pushed the frame rails down from point C to point E. It's like the center of the trailer is pushed down along these points.

The two angles on the tongue are also bent at the points where the circles are.

If I can at least re-bend the frame rails and the tongue angles, then I'm that much more ahead as opposed to having to cut them all out with a cutting disc. The use of a chain and jack seems more controllable to me than what I can do with a front end loader. Renze may have the skill to do it, but I envision that I would end up making a bigger mess with the FEL.

Wish I had a torch, but I don't.

If it goes bad, I picked up a new piece of 2x3 tube today.

 

[Shield Arc]

Without a torch, the chain and jack will work. But be careful I have a scar right between my eyes from doing something like that with a port-a-power years ago.

I can't draw on your pictures where you could really understand what I'm trying to say. If you had a torch I would heat on the bottom of the box tube like this first picture, it most likely won't be enough so then I would heat a V wedge like the second picture, with the wide part of the wedge on the bottom of the box tube, right under the C. And then a circle right in the center of the bottom on the box tube under the C. The bent angle iron I would also heat a V wedge with the wide part of the V on the bottom toe of the angle.

 

[pat32rf]

Bite the bullet, flip it over and use a HEAVY chain and a high-lift jack to straighten it. I'd leave the 2.5" square tube in place. Its probably stronger that the replacement thqat you have, it just might be pretty heavy if its 1/4" wall. I just bought 6' of it to repair the tonque on a trailer I picked up. Mine will also have 2.5" angle running out to each corner of the trailer frame. (5000lb springs)

 

[deereman75]

since it tows well, what about just leaving it bent, and welding in some braces.

 

[2manyrocks]

The channel in the trailer box is 2x3x 1/8 channel, but they've welded a 2.5 tube onto it.

The replacement I bought is 2x3x 1/8 tube. Should be stronger than what is there now.

I'm going to start off trying the chain and bottle jack method to see how much I can get straight and go from there.

 

[2manyrocks]

After bending with a chain and a bottle jack, it looks like most of the bend is gone, but the channel has bulged out unevenly on both sides as shown in the photo.

Since the trailer is sitting in my unlevel yard, I'm not sure if this has introduced a twist to the frame or not. I may have to tow it a bit and see how it tracks and maybe park it on my neighbor's concrete pad to see if it appears twisted.

Do you think I should hammer the bulges back in or leave them alone?

 

[Shield Arc]

I'd hammer them back in. These little projects are so much harder with out a torch.

 

[deereman75]

These little projects are so much harder with out a torch.

I agree, imo the FIRST welder anyone should buy is a good oxy fule torch, THEN stick or mig.

 

[rankrank1]

I agree, imo the FIRST welder anyone should buy is a good oxy fule torch, THEN stick or mig.

I would put a transformer based stick welder and a 4.5" electric grinder first for a hobbyist level welder as its is the cheapest entry into doing real work without buying/leasing expensing bottles and buying expensive gas. Best part an old buzzbox transformer can be picked up used for $150 or less and last nearly forever. For a business or a serious metal worker that uses their tools frequently then upgrading to oxy/acet can make fiscal sense - but not for the occasional user like me. Matter of fact, I have an older oxy/acetelyene outfit that I mothballed when the bottle lease expired. Got tired of paying the LWS expensive lease and buying the the expensive gas - not to mention running out of gas at the most inopportune times when LWS always closed. TSC carrying bottles now and selling gas is helpful with their extended hours but still an expensive proposition for an occasional user - not to mention the dangerous storage hassles of aceteylene.

With a transformer based buzzbox welder you also have a true muti-purpose tool:
a) Buzzbox will obviously weld metal
b) Buzzbox can cut metal or pierce holes in metal too - stick some 6011 in the stinger and crank up the amps and manipulate the rod in a sawing motion as you plunge through. Cuts are not plasma quality, but useable in a crude backyard shop - proper cutting technique actually covered in most buzzbox manuals.
c) Add Twin Carbon Arc to your transformer buzzbox and you have a way to intensely heat metal up to 1000 degrees hotter than oxy/acet potential if desired. Best point is it runs for nearly free other than cost of electricity which is cheap in scheme of things. Sorta crude but quite usable for bending metal, brazing, silver soldering, flame fill welding, and a bonus ability to free rusted nuts either with a flame or without a flame (flamelss style is great for sensitive paint areas where a flame might damge paint), etc. (Note: Twin Carbon Arc will NOT cut metal though).

If the OP has a transformer based welder then this condensed thread might be of interest. Within this thread I have posted 2 links on how to make a Twin Carbon Arc torch for nearly free as well as a couple links to Youtube videos showing Twin carbon arc in action. (Youtube videos are not mine and contain errors but helpful for picture idea anyway).

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=42262

 

[deereman75]

I like the torch first because you can do very good quality cuts, heat metal very quickly with a rose bud, and do tig quality welds. This is the order my dad and I bought ours.
1 blueshield duo-2 light industrial oxy fule rig with a 100ish cf oxy tank and a B sized aceteylene. (cost about $1200, even though air liquide gave us a discount)
2 smiths aircraft torch for the oxy fule for fine, tig quality welds on thin metal. (about $100 on ebay)
3 VERY OLD lincoln ac 225s buzz box with extra long stinger cable and a bernard 400 amp screw type electrode holder. (about $125 in the online classifieds)

I agree the oxy fule is EXTREAMLY EXPENSIVE, but it is the most useful IMO and welders handbook and many other welding books and sites recomend it first. If you dont have or want to spend $1000+ on an oxy fule, buy a buzz box first. You can do almost everything with a stick welder that you can do with oxy fule, but not always to the same quality. Even though you CAN cut with a stick welder, it is a slow and messy process, that looks like it was cut with a welding tip, and is limited to fairly thin material. (try making a clean cut through rail road rail with a stick welder)

Just so you know, I am not bashing stick welders, I have one and LOVE IT, it is one of the most useful tools in my shop, I am just stating my opionions, so take it for what it is worth. (nothing)