Had my R4010 three weeks now.

   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #31  
Any one of the number of issues you've had is completely unacceptable IMO. I've checked out LS and may get one one day. I think they have some nice features but aren't leagues better than anyone and from my cost comparisons cost as much as Kubota. Some people on here think you can't say anything bad about LS or your scum. Personally I think they hurt LS by doing that and need to get off the blue kool aide.

Still, in the compact tractor market, dealer support is the deciding factor as quality and price seem pretty comparable. It's good you've found a good dealer.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I was mowing a couple of days ago and because I am so far behind on my wood chores, a deck of logs I had placed in the 11th fairway with the old Cub Cadet was getting overgrown with grass. I decided to just move it to an already mowed area so I could at least mow the spot. I put the bucket forks on and went to do it. After driving the forks all the way under the larger ones of them, I could not come close to tilting the bucket back. I know I've already b*tched about this, but remembering how easy it was to put them where they were pounds it home again.

Going to try to get the steel to build my fork assembly this week. I figure it will have three times the leverage on roll-back.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #33  
Going to try to get the steel to build my fork assembly this week.

Got these 42" forks at an auction for about $525 after taxes and fees.

forks.jpg

Not sure what you have in mind to build, but "store bought" might not be a bad option if you are running short of spare time.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Not sure what you have in mind to build, but "store bought" might not be a bad option if you are running short of spare time.

I'm going for something six feet wide (on center -- 76 inches overall) because it's for logs and will be a more stable setup for longer stuff. It will be naturally tuned to my 15 inch bucking length. I'll be sure to make the frame accept the forks at pallet widths too. As little of that as I'm likely to do, there have been times when it would have been handy, as my bucket forks are not movable. I will either buy used forks, or as with my bucket forks, just build them up from channel iron. I won't be lifting things that will be bending them.

LBT, I must say here that I certainly appreciate it that you are always there trying to be helpful. That says to me, here is a good spirit. Thank you. :thumbsup:
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #35  
LBT, I must say here that I certainly appreciate it that you are always there trying to be helpful. That says to me, here is a good spirit. Thank you. :thumbsup:

You're welcome. I've gotten lots of good advice and ideas from TBN, so I'm just trying my best to give something back. Good luck with your fork project.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Going to borrow my neighbors' truck in the morning and go get the steel for my fork assembly. I hope I can knock it out in two days (not counting paint).
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #37  
short game, Good luck on your fork project, you might be wrong on how much you can use the forks for pallets, I put everythig on pallets, bricks, blocks, stone, steel,used parts,ect ect, its much easier to grab a pallet with the tractor and take it to where iam working. Sorry about the fel problems you have had. Maybe your club has a bigger pump i realy dont know . I have moved about 80 yds of black dirt from a driveway ditching project and about 100yds of sand with my 4020 hydro. I did blow a hose the first 2 hrs I had the tractor. The dealer was at my house the next day and replaced the hose that was not crimped correctly from LS. Other than that it has been great! I have noticed that when i push the bucket deep into the sand bank sometimes it wont tilt back unless i back up alittle, iam thinking it has reached its limit
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#38  
It turns out that Murphy's 5th Law is biting me big time.

Murphy's 5th Law:
Whatever you set out to do,
you'll have to do something else first.

My metal working area was not going to work for this project. I had to move the whole operation from a lean-to by my cabin to my "shop," such as it is. That meant getting 220 volts there too. Chop saw, workbench, welder, vices, on-and-on, etc., etc., etc. Then of course, all my other 220V stuff had to tag along, like I had any room for it there.

I got a start on the frame today (after a morning of mowing). The bottom bar is 6 feet of 4"X4"X1/4" angle iron and the top is 6 feet of 2.5"X2.5"X1/4" angle iron. These are joined by two 10"X1/4" plates where it will mate up with the loader's quick release plates. I had to grind the welds smooth on the back side were it mates up. That was 40 inches of weld grinding. I clamped two 18.5 inch 2"X4"X1/4" rectangular tubes to the ends of the angle irons that will be the end uprights. By that time, I needed to stop and select a good muscle relaxant for the evening. I am so sore. If I'm not inundated with disc golfers tomorrow, I'll get back at it.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #40  
Just curious, LBT, you ever thought about getting some dirt on that machine?

You have wounded me sir! I'll have you know that my tractor, much like myself, looks better from a distance.:D Why just take a look at these close-up pictures of the parking brake system I took for you only last weekend.

brake3.jpg brake4.jpg

Actually, the shot with the forks is a pretty old picture of when I first got them.

I've never washed my S3010 because I have to carry water when I go out there. At least the mud falls off the tires after it dries up. Most of what you are seeing in the brake pics is dust from brush hogging.
 

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