crazyal
Super Member
Nice. Make sure they replace the u-joint with one that has a grease fitting on it.
Finally got me a REAL Truck
- Thread starter LD1
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newbury
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
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- 14,174
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- From Vt, in Va, retiring to MS
- Tractor
- Kubota's - B7610, M4700
Nice.
Jealous
Jealous
rswyan
Super Star Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
- Messages
- 11,439
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
LD,
Nice score :thumbsup:
Which tranny is in it - automatic or manual ?
Nice score :thumbsup:
Which tranny is in it - automatic or manual ?
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
Thanks for all the compliments
It is an auto tranny.
And the joints in there now definatally arent greasable. And its kinda funny, because the last few times I have done u-joints, the lifetime warrenty ones arent greasable, and the 1 or 2 year warrenty ones are
I have also heard that the NON-greasable ones are supposed to be stronger??? Allthough I have NEVER actually broken a u-joint. All of the ones I have EVER replaced have been due to lack of grease. I did the rear one in my silverado @ about 90k miles. Dry as a bone inside and NO fitting.
And as to that alarm, I was wondering what that was. It seems like sometimes it would go off, and others it wouldnt. But I do have a habit of leaving the door open when I am backing up to the trailer to hook it up. That way I can see the ground and gives me a better visual when I know I only need to back up like another 8" or so. That is harder to judge with the door closed.
It is an auto tranny.
And the joints in there now definatally arent greasable. And its kinda funny, because the last few times I have done u-joints, the lifetime warrenty ones arent greasable, and the 1 or 2 year warrenty ones are
I have also heard that the NON-greasable ones are supposed to be stronger??? Allthough I have NEVER actually broken a u-joint. All of the ones I have EVER replaced have been due to lack of grease. I did the rear one in my silverado @ about 90k miles. Dry as a bone inside and NO fitting.
And as to that alarm, I was wondering what that was. It seems like sometimes it would go off, and others it wouldnt. But I do have a habit of leaving the door open when I am backing up to the trailer to hook it up. That way I can see the ground and gives me a better visual when I know I only need to back up like another 8" or so. That is harder to judge with the door closed.
jimmyj
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2007
- Messages
- 3,719
- Location
- Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Allis Chalmers 616 (Two) and a Kioti CK30 HST with loader and backhoe
Sexy truck man! I am envious.
I have a regular Ram 1500, it's an '03 and I have nearly worked it to death. I have replaced both U joints by 200,000 kilometres and put greasable ones in. I think the first one went (the rear) at 150,000 k's which is about 90k miles.
Good luck though, that's a real man's truck!!!! :thumbsup:
I have a regular Ram 1500, it's an '03 and I have nearly worked it to death. I have replaced both U joints by 200,000 kilometres and put greasable ones in. I think the first one went (the rear) at 150,000 k's which is about 90k miles.
Good luck though, that's a real man's truck!!!! :thumbsup:
arrow
Super Member
Thanks for all the compliments
.
And the joints in there now definatally arent greasable. And its kinda funny, because the last few times I have done u-joints, the lifetime warrenty ones arent greasable, and the 1 or 2 year warrenty ones are
I have also heard that the NON-greasable ones are supposed to be stronger??? Allthough I have NEVER actually broken a u-joint. All of the ones I have EVER replaced have been due to lack of grease. I did the rear one in my silverado @ about 90k miles. Dry as a bone inside and NO fitting.
d.
Non greasable joints are stronger as their centers are solid and not drilled through for zerk fittings. They are for people who do not grease their ujoints regularly which is most people and will last longer than a greasable joint that isn't greased. They get troublesome when submersed in water so they are not for every application.
HHR
Platinum Member
Looks like a nice truck. I would take a 5.9L over a 6.7L any day.
Check your ball joints for vertical play. They have a poor design where the lower joint supports all the load and the upper one acts as a free-floating king pin.
Check your ball joints for vertical play. They have a poor design where the lower joint supports all the load and the upper one acts as a free-floating king pin.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
how ya like it?
i looked at a 00 3500 today.. v10 gasser i think
soundguy
i looked at a 00 3500 today.. v10 gasser i think
soundguy
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
I really like it so far. But I havent had a load behind it yet.
A 2000 v10 gasser would be apples to oranges compaired to this. I was only looking at 03 and newer to get the newer body style:thumbsup: And was really not wanting anything newer than 07 to stay with the 5.9L
Turbys_1700
Elite Member
Just as an aside...
My mechanic put in a splicer u-joint on my F350 that is a grease-able u-joint...
I like it better and I would think that you would too...
You're gonna really like that Cummins...
One tough puller...
My mechanic put in a splicer u-joint on my F350 that is a grease-able u-joint...
I like it better and I would think that you would too...
You're gonna really like that Cummins...
One tough puller...
