Ballast How much ballast is too much?

[ModMech]

I know rear ballast counters the FEL load. But does rear ballast also help to prevent sideways tipping, when working sideways along a slope?

YES! The additional weight in the uphill tire is as far outboard as you can get w/o modifications and the Center of Mass is below the axle centerline, this helps tremendously in roll stability while operating on side hills.

I think it is important to keep our thoughts on either Ballast -or- counterweight, they are NOT the same thing!

Ballast = in tire or wheel weights that DO NOT add even an ounce of load to the tractor's axle(s) or tires.

Counterweight = hang-on weight that increases the load on the tires and axle(s).

You can add as much ballast as will fit to 75% tire volume or as much weight as you can put on the rims w/o any problem.

You should never add more counterweight than tractor axle capacity will allow with the loads placed on the tractor.

 

[Turbys_1700]

YES! The additional weight in the uphill tire is as far outboard as you can get w/o modifications and the Center of Mass is below the axle centerline, this helps tremendously in roll stability while operating on side hills.

I think it is important to keep our thoughts on either Ballast -or- counterweight, they are NOT the same thing!

Ballast = in tire or wheel weights that DO NOT add even an ounce of load to the tractor's axle(s) or tires.

Counterweight = hang-on weight that increases the load on the tires and axle(s).

You can add as much ballast as will fit to 75% tire volume or as much weight as you can put on the rims w/o any problem.

You should never add more counterweight than tractor axle capacity will allow with the loads placed on the tractor.

I found it interesting in doing some calculations on my NH 1720...

My front axle is rated @ 930#...

The max psi of the hydraulics is rated @ 2133 psi...

My FEL has a lifting capacity of 1124# @ 2466psi...

2133# / 2466# = .86

.86 x 1124# = 967#

Looks like NH had the hydraulics figured out to not overload the front axle...

I would imagine that most manufacturers have limited the pressure of their hydraulics to not overload the axles of their tractors...

I know of some people who have increased the psi of their hydraulics so that they can lift more with their FEL's...

I think that I will leave mine alone...

 

[cttractor]

I know rear ballast counters the FEL load. But does rear ballast also help to prevent sideways tipping, when working sideways along a slope?

I would add that ballast won't stop tipping if your center of gravity is too high or the slope angle too great. I've even seen extremely low center of gravity machines (e.g. a dozer) sliding sideways down a slope if the incline is too great and the ground too loose. Likely the best ballast is filled tires because they put substantial weight at the lowest point possible while not limiting ground clearance. But even filled tires do have their own limitations: 1) they don't take loader weight off the front axle like a rear implement or ballast box does using the rear axle as a fulcrum, and 2) you can't easily take the weight off and put it back on as you can with an implement, suitcase weights, or some such.

I try to avoid driving sideways on a slope unless absolutely necessary. It becomes a probabilities game. There's always the chance that we'll drive into a pothole on the down-slope side (or a high spot on the uphill side) and tip. The more frequent we drive sideways across more than a slightly inclined slope, the more likely we'll roll down a hill someday.

 

[LD1]

YES! The additional weight in the uphill tire is as far outboard as you can get w/o modifications and the Center of Mass is below the axle centerline, this helps tremendously in roll stability while operating on side hills.

I think it is important to keep our thoughts on either Ballast -or- counterweight, they are NOT the same thing!

Ballast = in tire or wheel weights that DO NOT add even an ounce of load to the tractor's axle(s) or tires.

Counterweight = hang-on weight that increases the load on the tires and axle(s).

You can add as much ballast as will fit to 75% tire volume or as much weight as you can put on the rims w/o any problem.

You should never add more counterweight than tractor axle capacity will allow with the loads placed on the tractor.

It is also goot to remember that ballast (tire weight) also does NOTHING to take weight OFF the front axle when the loader is loaded.

Contrary to what some may believe, there are instances where ballast will actually ADD to the weight the front axle sees. For example, IF you have NO ballast and NO counter weight, and the rears leave the ground, 100% of the tractor weight + the loader weight + the load is all on the front axle.

With ballast ONLY added, it will increase what the loader is able to lift without tipping, but on 99% of the tractors I have seen, ballast alone is NOT enough to counter what the loader can lift. So therefor, with ballast added, when the rears leave the ground, 100% of the tractor weight + the loader weight + the load(which is now a little more than before) + the added ballast is NOW all on the front.

This is why ballast alone is NOT enough. A good heavy counterweight is a must.:thumbsup:

 

[nvpliers]

Thanks all for your thoughts....they are very helpful in safely planning a day's work. And yes...anytime I can avoid riding sideways, I do!

There is one area on my property that in order to access, I must traverse sideways. One thought I may pursue is I may hire out someone with a small dozer to "notch" into the high side of the slope, to sort of give me a relatively flatter bench to roll across. Anyway, a bit off topic....but thanks again!

 

[Wolfy]

nvpliers, if you need to work on a sideslope, you need rear wheel weights, and also run the front tires at the maximum pressure. Take it from someone who's backyard is a hill.

 

[nvpliers]

nvpliers, if you need to work on a sideslope, you need rear wheel weights, and also run the front tires at the maximum pressure. Take it from someone who's backyard is a hill.

Thanks Wolfy. I will call my dealer Monday on weights.

 

[North Country]

Yes, by moving your CG closer to the wide part of the triangle. The triangle of stability is formed by your rear tires & the front pivot pivot. The father back your CG is, the more stable you are laterally.

 

[jenkinsph]

Your tractor's manual should give you a guide for ballasting. Deere does....maybe other manufacturers too.
There's also considerable information on the Internet, if you want to spend a bit of time doing the research. It just depends on how in depth you want to get. Most of the information I've read was directed towards agricultural owners/operators.
No doubt a farmer wants just enough ballast for a given job, but not too much to prevent some tire slippage. And, of course, unnecessary weight reduces fuel economy (might not be much and pretty irrelevent to we CUT/residential owners...but when you work a couple thousand acres it adds up).

I agree with Roy, enough weight to handle the task at hand without over weighting the machine.

 

[Baby Grand]

<Snip>
I think it is important to keep our thoughts on either Ballast -or- counterweight, they are NOT the same thing!

Ballast = in tire or wheel weights that DO NOT add even an ounce of load to the tractor's axle(s) or tires.

Counterweight = hang-on weight that increases the load on the tires and axle(s).

<Snip>

So ... a ballast box ... isn't?
That's an interesting distiction as I'd always thought that ballast was any weight added to the machine to move the CG to your advantage. Sort of the way stones were thrown in the hulls of ships so the owners could send them out, "empty", to pick up a load of heavy cargo.

-Jim