Finally got me a REAL Truck

[RoyJackson]

Sorry if that offended you. I think there is a distinction between a vehicle with a bed, what I think of as a pickup, and a truck that can do serious work, what I think of as a 1 ton or larger, that is where we are disagreeing.

For example, untill a couple years ago most half tons were built on the same frame as the large SUVs were made on and the only difference was the cab and bed.

I agree the little pickups, rangers and half tons, have there place and are useful to some people but to me they are not REAL trucks. To me, truck means 1 ton or bigger. It appears that to a lot of people truck means to them what pickup means to me, that it has a bed.

Sorry about getting off track LD1.

Ed

Actually, most SUV's were built on pick up chassis when the SUV first arrived on the scene several years ago. That goes back to the first "SUV's" which were the old Willys Overland, Chevy Suburban and Jeep Cherokee...all pick up based vehicles.
Even the more recent Ford Explorer is based on a pick up chassis. The problem with the Explorers is they did ride like a truck (so Ford mandated lower tire pressures for the Firestone tires and we all know where that went).

Your opinion of what a truck is...is, of course, your opinion and you are entitled to it. Now, if you can get the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania to agree with you and lower my registration fees to a non-truck rate, I'll happily agree with your definition.

 

[LD1]

Not petty at all...you make a post denigrating those of us who have little need for a larger truck...

NOT true at all.

It was NOT meant to degrade ANYONE.

It is mearly my words being twisted out of context.

I make NO insinuations about anyone else or what their trucks are.

BUT to ME and ME only, I went from my wannabe truck to a real truck.

 

[Dmace]

LD1, don't feel sorry for your post.

Some people like to think they can buy a compact truck, haul 2 bags of concrete and start thinking about CDL's and CB radios...

I think you have a REAL truck and should be proud of it, don't let the nay-slayers say otherwise. I can't believe how many people have their panties in a twist, what a bunch of old maids...

 

[arrow]

Cheez, gone for a couple of days and this thread sort of went out the door. LD, about the ball joints. The more important measurment is the lateral one. The vertical one not as much. Chrysler has a pretty good (meaning large) spec on ball joints and should be measured with a gauge. I believe they allow .09 if memory serves right. Do not be surprised if they tell you they are still in spec. I've seen many times where .25 inches of visual play specked out fine with a gauge. This is not to say that you don't have a choice with what to do with your own truck. Its just that you may have to take matters into your own hands. If you are feeling or hearing a knocking sound when going over a bump, it could be the joints but I would check out the steering linkages first.The best ball joints I ever used were Dynatracs. They are pricey but they firm up road and steering dynamics wonderfully. Dana Spicer also makes good stuff. Moog to me were junk. This is just in case you have an opportunity to choose your set should they need replacing.

 

[Marveltone]

When I bought my '05 Ram 2500, the driver's side ball joint needed replacing. My mechanic said that's pretty normal for the Dodges. He said they tend to go out in the 4X4s about every 70,000 miles or so... something about the left front hub always having power, even when in 2WD. Cost me about $200 if I recall. I can handle $200 every 70,000 miles.

Joe

 

[timswi]

When I bought my '05 Ram 2500, the driver's side ball joint needed replacing. My mechanic said that's pretty normal for the Dodges. He said they tend to go out in the 4X4s about every 70,000 miles or so... something about the left front hub always having power, even when in 2WD. Cost me about $200 if I recall. I can handle $200 every 70,000 miles.

Joe

That's true, my neighbor has a really nice Dodge Cummins TD ('01 I think...He's replaced the ball joints a couple of times in 110K...Cost of doing business. Ain't bothering him.

 

[PapaPerk]

When I bought my '05 Ram 2500, the driver's side ball joint needed replacing. My mechanic said that's pretty normal for the Dodges. He said they tend to go out in the 4X4s about every 70,000 miles or so... something about the left front hub always having power, even when in 2WD. Cost me about $200 if I recall. I can handle $200 every 70,000 miles.

Joe

The front hubs have no power when in 2wd. They wear out because they are designed poorly and have no way to grease them.

 

[Marveltone]

The front hubs have no power when in 2wd. They wear out because they are designed poorly and have no way to grease them.

Geno's Garage describes what I cannot: "The drivers side front wheel is permanently connected to an axle shaft which runs to the differential. The passengers side has a two piece axle, one half permanently connected to the wheel, one half (intermediate axle shaft) connected to the differential. The two halves meet in the middle of the passenger side axle tube (that bulge on the axle tube is where the axle disconnect lives). The two halves are connected together for 4X4 operation by the Center Axle Disconnect mechanism."
This is what I was incorrectly referring to that causes the left side to wear faster than the right. I'll agree it's poor engineering and/or cheap manufacturing, but the results still end up as ball joint replacement at fairly regular intervals.

Joe

 

[AGGIE00]

Not petty at all...you make a post denigrating those of us who have little need for a larger truck...which is probably the majority of we residential owners. A half-ton can carry quite a bit.
As far as your truck...well, never had any desire for a dually...but I would like a full sized pickup. Just don't want the 10-12 MPG that goes with 'em for the few times I could use something bigger. Nor do I want to pay the $20K to $50K a new pickup can cost. That's just me, of course....your money, spend it how you like.

Your mileage estimate is way off for a cummins diesel. My 6.7 gets 20-23 on the highway and 15-17 in town and I drive it like I stole it. I have to admit though that all the emissions parts fell off the truck a long time ago. There are many days when bouncing through a field that I would prefer a lighter half ton, but it doesn't make sense to own two trucks and a half ton wouldn't make it out of the driveway pulling the loads I use my 3/4 ton for.

 

[AGGIE00]

Looks like a nice truck. I would take a 5.9L over a 6.7L any day.
Check your ball joints for vertical play. They have a poor design where the lower joint supports all the load and the upper one acts as a free-floating king pin.

Have you owned one? There is no comparing the six speed auto that comes with the 6.7 to the old. I would never go back to the 5.9 after owning my 6.7 that now has 140k on the dial in only 3 years and has only needed two u-joints, brake pads and an evaporator core. By far the best value truck I have ever owned and is still strong and tight in the front end. The 5.9s I have been around spit out transmissions like I go through brake pads.