Oil & Fuel 50 Hour Service

Canuck_49 · Jul 25, 2011

For financial reasons I'm going to do the full 50 hour service on my 3510i (engine and tranny oil, hydraulic fluid, filters etc.) myself. Plus, I don't have a trailer to get the tractor to the nearest dealer who is about 100 miles away.

I did a search but wasn't able to find any step-by-step instructions for doing the whole process. If there is such a thing, I'd really appreciate someone pointing me towards it.

I'm going to get all the filters from the Branson dealer, since I read some had problems with generic ones; but I figure the oil and fluid can be bought locally. Does John Deere carry compatible oil and hydraulic fluids? If so, what should I ask for?

DeeDubya · Jul 25, 2011

NAPA should have or can get everything you need.

WilliamBos · Jul 25, 2011

Nothing wrong with that. We did ours for the same reasons.

Price out the service manual from the dealer. That should be a huge help.

Stimw · Jul 25, 2011

I think it is wise to do it yourself, it will make you more familiar with your tractor and save you money.
I have a 3510 also and the service is pretty straight forward. I do reccomend Branson filters, I consider that cheap insurance!
Some tips- have the tractor level so refilling fluids is accurate. The trans main drain is located just under the driveshaft where it comes out of the trans. There is a screen on the right side with an access cover. remove it and clean with solvent.
I buy engine oil at Walmart, SHELL Rotella 15-50 is good for diesels. Hydraulic oil Tractor supply has good prices.
You will need three 5-gal buckets to drain the used hyd oil!!

Canuck_49 · Jul 26, 2011

Do the lines/hoses on the FEL need bleeding after the hydraulic oil is changed?

WilliamBos · Jul 26, 2011

Canuck_49 said:
Do the lines/hoses on the FEL need bleeding after the hydraulic oil is changed?

Is the loader quick attach?? If so, remove it. If not, as long as the hydraulics are all in, like the loader is down, and the bucket curled back, should not need to be.

Also, make sure your 3PT arms are down. I assume it bleeds n the pump?? (Open bleeder I mean?? )

Canuck_49 · Jul 27, 2011

WilliamBos said:
Is the loader quick attach?? If so, remove it. If not, as long as the hydraulics are all in, like the loader is down, and the bucket curled back, should not need to be.

Also, make sure your 3PT arms are down. I assume it bleeds n the pump?? (Open bleeder I mean?? )

Yes, it's a quick attach. Thanks Bill and everyone else who posted. I think I was over-analyzing the job so finally did the smart thing and read the operators manual (duh)! It doesn't seem so daunting a task now.

90cummins · Jul 27, 2011

Doing the service yourself is a great idea not only to save $ and become familiar with your machine but also to keep tabs on the internal condition of the machine by cutting open the filters and looking for contamination.
Opening and inspecting the filters can provide you with valuable info pertaining to the condition of all internal components.
During the initial break-in period you will see metal & other contaminants from gears shedding flashing and contaminants introduced during the assembly.
You should see less contamination every service and eventually establish a norm which will become your baseline.
If something starts to go bad you should see unfamiliar particles in the filter before there are any obvious operational issues.
This will allow you to be pro-active and nip it in the bud!
A mechanic that is familiar with your machine may be able to identify the source of contamination before serious damage occurs.

tim