Decompression valve on Stihl - Got a question

[Wolfy]

I think you will like Stihls. Don't get me wrong, I like them. If you do ever want to look at a Husqvarna, be sure to see a dealer. The models Lowes and TSC sell are at the low end. And by the way, I think the decompression valves function the same on all saws.

 

[Will_C]

I have a MS 260. I usually forget to use the decomp button, it is really needed for such a small saw. Now, on my Dad's old Pro Mac 850, it will pull your arm out of its socket if you don't push in the valve.

I have noticed that my 260 seems to pick up power as I use it. I have put about 5 tanks of fuel through it, and I think it is stronger with every tank.

Will

 

[2458n]

ON and OFF is what I like about my old Sthils. Why did they go to the o and I signs for on and off. Who came up with the new gas and oil caps? I could fire a couple of engineers really quickly.

 

[Wolfy]

That's the bottom line of the year

 

[Baby Grand]

ON and OFF is what I like about my old Sthils. Why did they go to the o and I signs for on and off. Who came up with the new gas and oil caps? I could fire a couple of engineers really quickly.

Yeah - I think 0 & I is a gift from the computer science weenies (no offense you guys).

Personally, I find the Auf & Zu on the bottom of my old Leica IIIg a lot easier to understand.

 

[fabsroman]

Yeah - I think 0 & I is a gift from the computer science weenies (no offense you guys).

Personally, I find the Auf & Zu on the bottom of my old Leica IIIg a lot easier to understand.

How hard is it to remember. All you have to remember is that 0 if Off. Or that O if Off. Or that all the way up is Off. My Lord, I have had my saws for less than a week and I don't even need to look at the switches to understand where they need to be. Cold start - all the way down. Warm start - one notch up. Run - another notch up, which will happen immediately upon me hitting the throttle. Off - all the way up. Who really needs the symbols after they run the saw a single time.

 

[Baby Grand]

How hard is it to remember. All you have to remember is that 0 if Off. Or that O if Off. Or that all the way up is Off. My Lord, I have had my saws for less than a week and I don't even need to look at the switches to understand where they need to be. Cold start - all the way down. Warm start - one notch up. Run - another notch up, which will happen immediately upon me hitting the throttle. Off - all the way up. Who really needs the symbols after they run the saw a single time.

... or that o is on ... or that O is Off ...

You have two saws with the same switch nomenclature - that's fabulous.

My limber/trimmer saw (an Echo, which I love) has a toggle switch - up is on; down is off. With the Stihl, up is off and sorta down is on. When I want to stop the saw I often want to stop it NOW, not after I've had a chance to ruminate about it.

Gale: "Alright you hayseeds it's a stickup! Everybody freeze. Everybody down on the ground. (Long pause)"
Hayseed: "Well, which is it Young Feller? You want I should freeze or get down on the ground? I mean to say, if'n I freeze I can't rightly drop. And if'n I drop, I'm gonna be in motion. Y'see..."
Gale: "Shut up!"
Hayseed: "Ok then."

 

[Markchip]

I've got two Stihl's with decompression valves. Here's what I do: when cold, push in decompression valve, squeeze throttle and push switch to cold start position. Then pull on cord a few times until the engine tries to start. Then, push the decompression valve in again (it comes out when the engine tries to start), move the switch to warm start position, and give a couple of pulls. Engine should start, now as soon as it starts I give the throttle a quick squeeze and then release the throttle, engine should now be running at idle speed.

If starting warm I push in the decompression valve, put the switch in the warm start or on position, and give a couple of pulls and engine should start. Again, I give the throttle a quick squeeze and release, engine should be running at idle speed.

So, for cold starting you need to push in the decompression valve twice, although you may pull the cord 4 - 8 times. For warm starting you push in the decompression valve once and may pull the cord 2 - 4 times. Mine usually takes two or three pulls.

Make sure you understand how the chain brake works also, because if it's not engaged when you start the chain can immediately start to spin. Also, with chain brake engaged don't rev the engine above idle or you can damage the clutch.

Hope this helps.

I found it quiet interesting, hopefully you will keep posting such blogs?Keep sharing the information.

 

[fabsroman]

... or that o is on ... or that O is Off ...

You have two saws with the same switch nomenclature - that's fabulous.

My limber/trimmer saw (an Echo, which I love) has a toggle switch - up is on; down is off. With the Stihl, up is off and sorta down is on. When I want to stop the saw I often want to stop it NOW, not after I've had a chance to ruminate about it.

Gale: "Alright you hayseeds it's a stickup! Everybody freeze. Everybody down on the ground. (Long pause)"
Hayseed: "Well, which is it Young Feller? You want I should freeze or get down on the ground? I mean to say, if'n I freeze I can't rightly drop. And if'n I drop, I'm gonna be in motion. Y'see..."
Gale: "Shut up!"
Hayseed: "Ok then."

This crap is hilarious. I have shotguns with safeties on the trigger guard. I have shotguns with safeties on the top tang for the double barrels. I have rifles with tang safeties on the bolt and I have rifles with safeties on the trigger guard. I have yet to have a problem finding the safety on the gun when I want to make a shot. Might be because I am familiar with them.

Same thing can be said for yard equipment. My John Deere mower does not start the same way as my saws, yet I manage it.

Between this and the fuel/oil caps, it sounds like much ado about nothing. Just some people that cannot deal well with change. Then again, maybe I don't have a clue what nirvana I am missing since I have never had a saw with a different type of fuel/oil cap or on/off switch.

Do you guys really have to think about how to start these saws before you start them? I might be able to understand it if it is not your saw and you just borrowed it from a friend. I would have to pause for a couple seconds before trying to start my dad's saw, or somebody else's saw, but not mine and I have only had them for a week.

 

[arrow]

, but they also felt good in my hands. I

That's all that can be accounted for right now. Each brand of saw has its "nuances"
If you use several brands, I suppose one could get a favorite as far as ergonomics. One cannot go by recommendations or reliability or durability or any other variable as they are all subjective. They only serve as starting points and not necessarily hold any water. You made the correct choice based on what you felt or even if you liked the color combination better. All anyone can do is learn their saw, cross their fingers and hope they get some use out of what they bought no matter what the brand or where it came from. Good luck with your new saws.
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