Decompression valve on Stihl - Got a question

[fabsroman]

I just finished reading the manuals to my new saws, but the part about using the decompression valve for starting is about as clear as mud. Do I only push it in when starting cold? Does it have to be pushed in after each pull of the starting cord or will it stay open until the saw starts or at least gives me an audible pop? Do I need to use the decompression valve when trying to start a hot saw?

I think that pretty much covers my questions about the decompression valve.

 

[yankeerider]

I have found that my MS361 starts better (quicker) if I don't use the compression release when it's cold. After that first start, I always use it to make the rope easier to pull, and it generally starts on the first pull. It only needs to be reactivated if the engine fires without starting.

BTW, when I first got this saw, I had a heck of a time getting it started. Dealer told me to disregard the starting instructions in the manual. Idea was to not pull more than 3 or 4 times on full choke. If it doesn't fire, go to half choke and pull 3 or 4 times before trying full choke again. This avoids flooding.

 

[piller]

I've got two Stihl's with decompression valves. Here's what I do: when cold, push in decompression valve, squeeze throttle and push switch to cold start position. Then pull on cord a few times until the engine tries to start. Then, push the decompression valve in again (it comes out when the engine tries to start), move the switch to warm start position, and give a couple of pulls. Engine should start, now as soon as it starts I give the throttle a quick squeeze and then release the throttle, engine should now be running at idle speed.

If starting warm I push in the decompression valve, put the switch in the warm start or on position, and give a couple of pulls and engine should start. Again, I give the throttle a quick squeeze and release, engine should be running at idle speed.

So, for cold starting you need to push in the decompression valve twice, although you may pull the cord 4 - 8 times. For warm starting you push in the decompression valve once and may pull the cord 2 - 4 times. Mine usually takes two or three pulls.

Make sure you understand how the chain brake works also, because if it's not engaged when you start the chain can immediately start to spin. Also, with chain brake engaged don't rev the engine above idle or you can damage the clutch.

Hope this helps.

 

[Baby Grand]

I have found that my MS361 starts better (quicker) if I don't use the compression release when it's cold. After that first start, I always use it to make the rope easier to pull, and it generally starts on the first pull. It only needs to be reactivated if the engine fires without starting.

BTW, when I first got this saw, I had a heck of a time getting it started. Dealer told me to disregard the starting instructions in the manual. Idea was to not pull more than 3 or 4 times on full choke. If it doesn't fire, go to half choke and pull 3 or 4 times before trying full choke again. This avoids flooding.

I've had similar experience with my MS361. Last week I found out (the hard way) about flooding the engine after too many tugs with the choke set. The saw had set for 3 or 4 months without running. It was hot, itwas getting late and I was tired, so I hung it up for the day. The next day it fired up on the 2nd or 3rd tug, like usual.

I haven't found the compression release to make much difference, but after reading piller's description of his starting procedure ... maybe I wasn't using it the right way.

Once it's running I often wonder how I lived without it - it's a nice saw. Reminds me of Dad's Jonsered that I used in the 70's to feed a wood stove.

-Jim

 

[Wolfy]

BabyGrand I have a 361. And have the same kind of experience as you. It can be tough to start but what a sweet little brush saw it is.

 

[fabsroman]

Well, I used the MS261 for the first time today and it was not the easiest saw ever to start. I was using the decompression valve on every cord pull. It took about 5 to 8 cord pulls to get it started. I got a blip at about the 3 pull and then moved the choke to warm start. Took just as many pulls to get it started after that blip as it did to get the blip. We'll see how it goes as I use the saw some more.

I think I am going to go with using the decompression valve when cold starting and staying away from it with a hot engine.

FYI - I am not a novice chainsaw operator, just a novice with Stihl. I've used McCulloch, Craftsman, and Echo. While the MS261 was pretty good today with a brand new chain, it wasn't anything extremely special. I am hoping that "Stihl" awesomeness will show through over time as I break the saw in and with the saw lasting me 20+ years. My dad seems to kill saws in 5 or so years, but he has never had a Stihl.

Edit to add: Thanks guys.

 

[Wolfy]

I have a few Husqvarnas. And a few Stihls. They all cut good, are well balanced, but....there is no comparison for starting. 8 Stihl pulls sums it up. My big Husky is 4. Not to mention the much simpler ignition switch setup.

 

[fabsroman]

I have a few Husqvarnas. And a few Stihls. They all cut good, are well balanced, but....there is no comparison for starting. 8 Stihl pulls sums it up. My big Husky is 4. Not to mention the much simpler ignition switch setup.

Give me a break. I'm not trying to get into which is better, Husky or Stihl. If you were really honest about the comparison, you would note that it was my first time trying to start the saw, and evidenced by this entire thread I started, I had no clue what to do with a compression valve on the saw. I'm willing to bet that I will get that saw started easier and easier over time as I learn its nuances. I'm betting I will pick up power as I break the saw in too.

What is so complicated about the ignition switch setup? It has a cold start, hot start, run, and off position. How can that possibly be considered complicated?

If I had to guess, I would guess that you are slightly biased towards Husky. Obviously, I am biased towards Stihl since that is what I just bought. Most people don't like to admit that their last purchase was a mistake. However, if these saws really disappoint me in the future, I will not hesitate to switch to Husky. Since I cut and split about a cord of wood in 5 hours, I would say the saw performed pretty good. My dad tried to get into the cutting with his Craftsman with a chain so dull it was only making dust. He finished off two of my cuts and then put the saw away. Time to buy him a new chain and to figure out what electric chain sharpener I need to buy. Probably the Stihl one, but I haven't figured out how much it costs yet and if it will work on all chains.

 

[Wolfy]

fabsroman....I wasn't marching into a brand war...I was trying to give you a comparison to another brand to show you Stihls don't start great. And 8 pulls or so is normal at least on 4 different model Stihls I use. Just trying to broaden the horizon.

 

[fabsroman]

fabsroman....I wasn't marching into a brand war...I was trying to give you a comparison to another brand to show you Stihls don't start great. And 8 pulls or so is normal at least on 4 different model Stihls I use. Just trying to broaden the horizon.

I looked at the Huskys at the local DoItBest hardware store when I went there to buy gas cans for the new mower. I looked at the POS at Home Depot and Lowes too. I try to keep an open mind. Since they didn't let me test drive saws, I decided to go with Stihl. Probably biased from all the recommendations I have been given, but they also felt good in my hands. I'll see what my impression is of them over the years.

 

[Wolfy]

I think you will like Stihls. Don't get me wrong, I like them. If you do ever want to look at a Husqvarna, be sure to see a dealer. The models Lowes and TSC sell are at the low end. And by the way, I think the decompression valves function the same on all saws.

 

[Will_C]

I have a MS 260. I usually forget to use the decomp button, it is really needed for such a small saw. Now, on my Dad's old Pro Mac 850, it will pull your arm out of its socket if you don't push in the valve.

I have noticed that my 260 seems to pick up power as I use it. I have put about 5 tanks of fuel through it, and I think it is stronger with every tank.

Will

 

[2458n]

ON and OFF is what I like about my old Sthils. Why did they go to the o and I signs for on and off. Who came up with the new gas and oil caps? I could fire a couple of engineers really quickly.

 

[Wolfy]

That's the bottom line of the year

 

[Baby Grand]

ON and OFF is what I like about my old Sthils. Why did they go to the o and I signs for on and off. Who came up with the new gas and oil caps? I could fire a couple of engineers really quickly.

Yeah - I think 0 & I is a gift from the computer science weenies (no offense you guys).

Personally, I find the Auf & Zu on the bottom of my old Leica IIIg a lot easier to understand.

 

[fabsroman]

Yeah - I think 0 & I is a gift from the computer science weenies (no offense you guys).

Personally, I find the Auf & Zu on the bottom of my old Leica IIIg a lot easier to understand.

How hard is it to remember. All you have to remember is that 0 if Off. Or that O if Off. Or that all the way up is Off. My Lord, I have had my saws for less than a week and I don't even need to look at the switches to understand where they need to be. Cold start - all the way down. Warm start - one notch up. Run - another notch up, which will happen immediately upon me hitting the throttle. Off - all the way up. Who really needs the symbols after they run the saw a single time.

 

[Baby Grand]

How hard is it to remember. All you have to remember is that 0 if Off. Or that O if Off. Or that all the way up is Off. My Lord, I have had my saws for less than a week and I don't even need to look at the switches to understand where they need to be. Cold start - all the way down. Warm start - one notch up. Run - another notch up, which will happen immediately upon me hitting the throttle. Off - all the way up. Who really needs the symbols after they run the saw a single time.

... or that o is on ... or that O is Off ...

You have two saws with the same switch nomenclature - that's fabulous.

My limber/trimmer saw (an Echo, which I love) has a toggle switch - up is on; down is off. With the Stihl, up is off and sorta down is on. When I want to stop the saw I often want to stop it NOW, not after I've had a chance to ruminate about it.

Gale: "Alright you hayseeds it's a stickup! Everybody freeze. Everybody down on the ground. (Long pause)"
Hayseed: "Well, which is it Young Feller? You want I should freeze or get down on the ground? I mean to say, if'n I freeze I can't rightly drop. And if'n I drop, I'm gonna be in motion. Y'see..."
Gale: "Shut up!"
Hayseed: "Ok then."

 

[Markchip]

I've got two Stihl's with decompression valves. Here's what I do: when cold, push in decompression valve, squeeze throttle and push switch to cold start position. Then pull on cord a few times until the engine tries to start. Then, push the decompression valve in again (it comes out when the engine tries to start), move the switch to warm start position, and give a couple of pulls. Engine should start, now as soon as it starts I give the throttle a quick squeeze and then release the throttle, engine should now be running at idle speed.

If starting warm I push in the decompression valve, put the switch in the warm start or on position, and give a couple of pulls and engine should start. Again, I give the throttle a quick squeeze and release, engine should be running at idle speed.

So, for cold starting you need to push in the decompression valve twice, although you may pull the cord 4 - 8 times. For warm starting you push in the decompression valve once and may pull the cord 2 - 4 times. Mine usually takes two or three pulls.

Make sure you understand how the chain brake works also, because if it's not engaged when you start the chain can immediately start to spin. Also, with chain brake engaged don't rev the engine above idle or you can damage the clutch.

Hope this helps.

I found it quiet interesting, hopefully you will keep posting such blogs?Keep sharing the information.

 

[fabsroman]

... or that o is on ... or that O is Off ...

You have two saws with the same switch nomenclature - that's fabulous.

My limber/trimmer saw (an Echo, which I love) has a toggle switch - up is on; down is off. With the Stihl, up is off and sorta down is on. When I want to stop the saw I often want to stop it NOW, not after I've had a chance to ruminate about it.

Gale: "Alright you hayseeds it's a stickup! Everybody freeze. Everybody down on the ground. (Long pause)"
Hayseed: "Well, which is it Young Feller? You want I should freeze or get down on the ground? I mean to say, if'n I freeze I can't rightly drop. And if'n I drop, I'm gonna be in motion. Y'see..."
Gale: "Shut up!"
Hayseed: "Ok then."

This crap is hilarious. I have shotguns with safeties on the trigger guard. I have shotguns with safeties on the top tang for the double barrels. I have rifles with tang safeties on the bolt and I have rifles with safeties on the trigger guard. I have yet to have a problem finding the safety on the gun when I want to make a shot. Might be because I am familiar with them.

Same thing can be said for yard equipment. My John Deere mower does not start the same way as my saws, yet I manage it.

Between this and the fuel/oil caps, it sounds like much ado about nothing. Just some people that cannot deal well with change. Then again, maybe I don't have a clue what nirvana I am missing since I have never had a saw with a different type of fuel/oil cap or on/off switch.

Do you guys really have to think about how to start these saws before you start them? I might be able to understand it if it is not your saw and you just borrowed it from a friend. I would have to pause for a couple seconds before trying to start my dad's saw, or somebody else's saw, but not mine and I have only had them for a week.

 

[arrow]

, but they also felt good in my hands. I

That's all that can be accounted for right now. Each brand of saw has its "nuances"
If you use several brands, I suppose one could get a favorite as far as ergonomics. One cannot go by recommendations or reliability or durability or any other variable as they are all subjective. They only serve as starting points and not necessarily hold any water. You made the correct choice based on what you felt or even if you liked the color combination better. All anyone can do is learn their saw, cross their fingers and hope they get some use out of what they bought no matter what the brand or where it came from. Good luck with your new saws.
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