Chain saw curving while cutting question

[beppington]

One identical chain works and the other doesnt says somethings not identical. ...

Apparently identical :thumbsup: ... as judged by an admitted non-expert on chainsaw chains.

 

[jonyyuma]

Time to get out the Big Magnifying glass???Plenty of people want to see a photo of these two mystery chains?

 

[nobull1]

Chain gauge ??

I don't know if the wrong gauge chain will fit in the wrong bar but if it could then that could be the problem. The thing that sticks out to me which could be the problem or contributing problem is the hot chain and bar. Is the sprocket smooth feeling? Is the oil spraying on the ground when reved up and held close to the ground, with the problem chain?

 

[wade simpson]

When I bought mine the dealer said to flip the bar after a few shapenings and do that until niether side will cut straight, then replace it.

 

[massey990]

When I bought mine the dealer said to flip the bar after a few shapenings and do that until niether side will cut straight, then replace it.

I always reverse (flip) the bar whenever I sharpen the chain, this prevents it from extreme wear on a bias.

 

[arrow]

If its not the teeth its the runners. Egon gives you a clue by checking gage with a micrometer. You are building heat because your tangs or drive links are causing some type of abrasion against the bar. It is obvious that these chains are not identical and if the cutters are not giving you a clue, and you checked the tension then it could be nothing else but the tangs or drive links. Check chain gauge and sprocket to drive link engagement

 

[RandyT]

Could there be a possibility that one chain has .043 drive links and the other have .050 drive links. running a .043 in a .050 bar will cause a saw to cut crooked.

 

[LD1]

Yep, check the drive links of BOTH chains and compare to what the bar requires. (usually stamped on the bar.)

IF the one chain works and the other dont, that leads me to believe that the chain is the problem, NOT the bar. And since you are cutting post tops, and not down in the dirt or hitting nails, I doubt it is a dull chian. And if you have not attempted to sharpen or lower the rakers on this chain, it should be good "top-side".

Get out the calipers or mics and check the thickness of the drive-links. Common ones are .043, .050, .058, and .063

As others have mentioned, if one is an .043 and the bar is made for .050, there is too much slop and it will cause a crooked cut.

 

[Deere Dude]

I had a similar problem with my regular chainsaw. I would cut a 10" log and even though I would start perpendicular to the log, by the time I got through it I would curve it by 2-3 inches over.

I found that when I installed the bar on the saw there was a tiny lip on the stud near the base and the bottom of the bar was riding on that instead of totally flat on the base. I just made sure the bar was flat and not riding on any saw dust or that little lip on the stud then all was fine.

 

[yomax4]

Dull chains cause you to bear down a little more with the left had on the bar. Causes me to cut slightly to the right. Sharp chains do all the work but you still have to watch and steer to get a really straight cut. Some guys have had faulty sharpen jobs where only one side of the chain was sharpened. That too will cause an angled cut.