Mowing BX1860 OVERHEATS (?)

[mreatwork]

Good morning...purchased a new BX1860 earlier this year with a 48" MMM and FEL. It's all good (~40 hours on the clock) except the temp gauge will run to the red while using the mower, especially under full load - and almost certainly in the red if I didn't disengage the MMM to let it cool at a fast idle. I purchased a IFR temp gauge to check the actual engine temp as best I could. Even though the dash gauge is showing very hot, the temp at the base of the temp sending unit records less than 200 degrees on the IFR gauge. The radiator records ~170 or so on the IFR gauge.

No problem when using the FEL.

I mentioned the problem to the dealer. They didn't seem too concerned because "they run hot".

I've tried fabricating a muffler heat shield from 4 ply HD aluminum foil. No effect either way.

I know Kubota has replaced a few of these because they are not able to fix this "problem", although it seems those cases involved a confirmed overheating issue while mine might be a temp gauge calibration issue.

Do I have something to worry about here?

 

[mostly_gas]

Your IR temps look fine. I would check the gauge and sending unit.

 

[thavil]

BX's are known to run hot but not usually in the red. As mentioned, I would have the gauge and sending unit checked under warranty but before you do that, make sure you check your radiator. Make sure that the cover in front of your knees is clean as your tractor sucks air from behind instead of from the front of the tractor. Also check your screen that pulls out that is under the hood to make sure it is clean. Then blow air from either a compressor or leaf blower at your radiator. Make sure you blow from the front of the tractor towards your seat and you should see a lot of crap fly out past your battery. Pay special attention to the bottom of the radiator as this is where most of the crap gets stuck. Do not blow to close to the radiator as you may bend the fins.

 

[kevinj]

BX's are known to run hot but not usually in the red. As mentioned, I would have the gauge and sending unit checked under warranty but before you do that, make sure you check your radiator. Make sure that the cover in front of your knees is clean as your tractor sucks air from behind instead of from the front of the tractor. Also check your screen that pulls out that is under the hood to make sure it is clean. Then blow air from either a compressor or leaf blower at your radiator. Make sure you blow from the front of the tractor towards your seat and you should see a lot of crap fly out past your battery. Pay special attention to the bottom of the radiator as this is where most of the crap gets stuck. Do not blow to close to the radiator as you may bend the fins.

What he said and also slide the battery back to see in there better.

The new series run high in the white zone about 1/4 inch from red and minor plugging will put it in the red.

 

[automech]

I would try a new sender if your temps seem right. I would still check the rad screens (2) first. Also do a quick check on fan belt for tightness and condition.

 

[chucko]

I checked my 1800 as it was doing the same. The radiator even looked clean so I replaced the thermostat and it still run hot... log story short I took the battery out and a water hose to the radiator and could not believe the stuff that was caked in there

 

[mreatwork]

Thanks for the responses. I was aware of the clogged radiator/screen issues from reading posts on this site, which has been very helpful. As a Maintenance Nut, I've cleaned the screen and radiator fins after each use with either a leaf blower or a wand on the air compressor. So, my conclusion is it's either the temp sending unit (because the IFR readings are ok) OR nothing is wrong if this is true -> The new series run high in the white zone about 1/4 inch from red . Or maybe it's a combination of both. If this is true, Kubota needs to recalibrate the gauge on these tractors. It's nothing short of terrifying to see the temp gauge so close to the danger zone.

The gauge only touches the red zone when the air temperature is over 95 (which has been too often lately), the mower is engaged, the grass is relatively high and I'm mowing up a hill. Even then, the IFR reading is <200.

I'll keep an eye on it. If it continues to run into the red zone, I'll load it up and take it in during the mowing off-season.

Thanks again.

 

[chucko]

my "screen" was and stayed clean. It was like dust stuck to the fins inside the radiator. looking at it it looks clean and even did not blow much out with air but it did wash out with a water hose

 

[mreatwork]

Got it...I'll give it a try with the garden hose.

Thanks for the input.

 

[wrooster]

The new series run high in the white zone about 1/4 inch from red and minor plugging will put it in the red.

B.S.

I have a 2010 BX1860 (54" MMM) with about 100hrs and have never been "in the red". That includes cutting 1.5 acres of grass and moving tons of stone/mulch in really hot weather -- and I have never even gotten close to putting the temperature gauge into the red.

Something is wrong with the OP's engine cooling or lubrication system. It is not normal to get the temperature gauge into the red zone during typical operation.

Wrooster

Last month:

 

[mreatwork]

From reading other posts, I kinda wondered about the 1/4" from the red zone but apparently there are at least two of us with this condition. Anyone else?

 

[wrooster]

From reading other posts, I kinda wondered about the 1/4" from the red zone but apparently there are at least two of us with this condition. Anyone else?

Get the dealer you purchased the tractor from re-involved, and don't take "oh, they all do that" for an answer. The temperature gauge showing red during mowing with a 48" MMM is not normal. Something is amiss.

If you don't get attention and subsequently productive action, escalate to Kubota's regional rep and request (via certified letter to him with copy to the dealer) that Kubota specify, in writing, that operation of the tractor with the temperature gauge in the red is in fact normal and is not in any way detrimental to the lifespan of the engine and/or drivetrain -- and furthermore that if any issues arise you will expect Kubota and/or the dealer to cover all associated parts and labor to repair. That will get their attention.

This issue could be as simple as accumulation of debris around the radiator or perhaps it is representative of a larger, more complex problem (for example, a blocked water or oil passage).

Wrooster

 

[dodge man]

I have a BX2350 and it gets within a 1/4" to 1/2" of the red when mowing when its hot outside. Any other kind of work and it doesn't even get close. My dealer told me of this when he dropped the tractor off and says it's normal. If I don't keep the radiator and screen clean it would get into the red if I didn't stop and clean them.

He also said they took the infrared devices to them and found they don't run too hot.

 

[rpeter]

I have a B7800 that used to overheat each summer. Posted to this forum and someone suggested that I take out the antifreeze in the summer and go with straight water. Solved my problem immediately. Just don't forget to put the antifreeze back in for winter.

 

[mreatwork]

Seriously....???? I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point, contains anticorrosion additives and lubes the water pump.

 

[mostly_gas]

Seriously....???? I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point, contains anticorrosion additives and lubes the water pump.

It does when mixed correctly

 

[wrooster]

In this type of water cooled engine application, pure water is the most efficient coolant. In contrast to a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, pure water has over twice the thermal conductivity and nearly twice the heat capacity. Said another way, water in the cooling system is capable of transferring twice as much heat out of the same system as compared to a 50/50 glycol coolant and water solution.

In summary, engine operating temperature will be reduced when using pure water as coolant. Temperatures can be reduced even further using a small amount of surfactant additive. Race cars, for example, use pure water plus surfactant if the series rules allow. Otherwise, pure water.

The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.

More technical data is here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Wrooster

 

[fish6942]

(thread hijack)

wrooster - Can you give me a make/model on the 3PH aerator? Does it follow the side-to-side changes in terrain OK?

(sorry for the hijack)

 

[Don87]

In this type of water cooled engine application, pure water is the most efficient coolant. In contrast to a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, pure water has over twice the thermal conductivity and nearly twice the heat capacity. Said another way, water in the cooling system is capable of transferring twice as much heat out of the same system as compared to a 50/50 glycol coolant and water solution.

In summary, engine operating temperature will be reduced when using pure water as coolant. Temperatures can be reduced even further using a small amount of surfactant additive. Race cars, for example, use pure water plus surfactant if the series rules allow. Otherwise, pure water.

The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.

More technical data is here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Wrooster

I am going to post this at the risk of being called a troll.

I fail to see the connection between the Ad or whatever it was you posted and this situation.

From your link:
COOLING SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
The conventional spark ignition gasoline engine is
not a very efficient powerplant. A considerable
amount of the available fuel energy must be rejected
from the metal combustion chamber parts by the
coolant and dispersed to the atmosphere through the
radiator. This heat rejection is necessary in order to
prevent thermal fatigue of the pistons, cylinder walls,
and the cylinder head. Another problem is that the
combustion chamber must be cooled enough to prevent
preignition and detonation

Last I looked the BX series is diesel.

 

[mostly_gas]

The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.


Wrooster[/QUOTE]

Not to mention cavitation which can ruin an engine block.
If you want to run water, be my guest. Properly mixed anti-freeze does raise the boiling point reduce corrosion lube the water pump and reduce cavitation.
mreatwork's IR temps do not indicate an overheat, why run water (no benefit in this case)