Lawn rehab - nutsedge, broadleaf weeds, sod worm, aerating, etc.

[WinterDeere]

I just purchased a property with a 4-acre lawn that needs a little work. Here's the status:

1. Shallow tractor tire ruts in front lawn, putting a lot of wear and tear on the Z-trak mower (and my internal organs) due to bouncing over them when mowing.

2. Nutsedge. It is very dense in some areas, but mostly localized to various patches in the front 2 acres.

3. Clover, dandelion, and broadleaf weeds, mostlly localized to rear and side yards. Very dense in side yard (~1 acre), but otherwise just interspersed with the grass.

4. Dead patches, all very localized / not wide-spread. Someone who knows a lot more about lawn care than I reported this as a sod worm, suggesting pesticide treatment.

5. One area where septic was dug up requires re-seeding. Other ares (sod worm, heavy clover, etc.) could use an over-seeding, once the associated problems are solved.

6. pH measures 6.50 to 6.75 in most areas, but dips to 6.00 to 6.25 under walnut trees.

7. Thatch is roughly 1/2".

The steps I have in mind are:

1. Roll the lawn later this week. It's been raining like ****, so it's probably a good time for it. Hopefully my 400 lb. roller is enough, but if not, I can pick up a 900 lb. roller locally.

2. Spread granular herbicide for clover, dandelions, etc. Could possibly lay down pesticide for the sod worm at the same time?

3. Nutsedge? What to do? I don't have a liquids sprayer, but could rent one.

4. Plug aerate, then over-seed. I was going to dethatch, but was told this is not necessary if plug aerating. Is this true? Should I invest in a slit seeder (might be useful for yearly over-seeding each fall), or settle for the plug aerator and spreading seed behind it?

Is my order of activities any good, or would you change it up? Think I can get it all done before the first frost hits around Halloween? We're in Pennsylvania.

One lawn service who came to inspect the property spreading lime. Not sure why you'd want to lime a property with pH ~ 6.5. What am I missing?

Thank you for any or all answers you can provide.

 

[NIXON]

3. Nutsedge? What to do? I don't have a liquids sprayer, but could rent one.

For Nut sedge , Look for a product named MSMA.( Monosodium Acid ...yadda ,Yadda ) .
It's effective against Crabgrass, Chick weed Nutsedge ,etc.
You'll need some type of sprayer .

 

[WinterDeere]

You'll need some type of sprayer .

No problem. Was looking online last night, and I can pick one up for $250'ish. It looks like I'm going to need one no matter what product I use.

That also opens up more options for the pesticide and broadleaf herbicide, although that might play into the order in which I need to do the various steps.

Thanks.

 

[Arkaybee]

MSMA is not primarily recommended for nutsedge (nutgrass) control though it can be tank-mixed with IMAGE D70 (imazaquin) for the control of other types of weeds. You should apply imazaquin (IMAGE) to the turf according to the label directions. Be assured that you will probably have to make more than one application because there are always dormant nuts that will germinate later and need to be treated again. The season to apply the imazaquin is important to note in the label instructions for the control of different weeds.
For nutgrass, IMAGE works by absorption through the root system so it takes a couple of weeks for the effect to be seen.

IMAGE D70 is a granular formulation and costs @ $100+ for 11.43 ounces. Expensive sounding but it is fairly thrifty to use except in very large areas. But even then its use may be more economical that letting it grow
unchecked.

A non-ionic surfactant should be added (see label instructions for amt.) for effective use on above-ground effect on weed foliage.

I have found IMAZAQUIN to be effective in turf and in ornamental plantings.

HTH

ARKAYBEE

 

[Assanya]

Lawn Rehabilitation
Most of the things needed for the rehabilitation of the lawn are also part of lawn care season, except that if you are rehabilitating a bad lawn you'll probably need to do more of them more often for a while. A healthy lawn aeration may be necessary once every two or three years, a poorly compacted, probably needs twice for two years in a row, and at least once a year.
Most of the heavy rehabilitation work is done in spring or autumn, while summer is important to maintain a good regimen of regular maintenance. Remember that the main objective of growing a healthy lawn, organic is to establish and foster healthy grass, not to fight weeds and pests.
The tasks listed here in the order in which they had to do, in an ideal world. Since it is not an ideal world, you will probably have to be selective. They say it's fall and you have a good lawn without serious gaps, patches of grass or straw. Jump straw-and weed, and instead of airing it (which helps control thatch anyway), and topdressing with compost mix and corn gluten meal. The compost, a soil amendment will help improve soil structure and aeration, and corn gluten feed, fertilizing both grass and kill the new weed seeds.
Straw
Thatch is a layer of stems, roots and other dead organic matter that accumulates near the soil surface. A thick layer of straw suggests overuse of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, as these tend to kill the microorganisms that help decompose organic matter.
Press clippings are often blamed for hay, and rake cuts because people want to contribute to thatch buildup, but this is a false problem with a solution no. Press clippings contribute to thatch only if they are too long, or if the thatch layer is so deep that cuts keeps decomposition.
It is important to remember that the speck that happens. It only becomes a real problem when the layer is thicker than an inch and a half, at which point it can become a breeding ground for insect pests and fungal different. If you scroll through a page in the fight against turf insects or disease, and again you'll see advice to remove excess thatch.
The removal of the straw is first in the list of rehabilitation of grass because it is there as blocks of water, fertilizers and amendments to the ground. It's in the way of most other rehabilitation practices that could be made.